XLR8n

Any homemade lure making machines?

134 posts in this topic

Heres a peek at one we've been working on.

This prototype was made simply for proof of concept, it has many flaws & it's quite dangerous, please dont attempt.

Once we're happy with the design, we'll make it available here.

Our prerequisites were that the materials be readily available, affordable & be able to build & use in a small shop.

Feedback welcomed.

8oSMf_1nLqE

Ca'mon hurry up already,I have to have one of these!

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A Mac,

Let us know how it turns out for you.

We played around with the commercial version at Nathan's during the Clinton Meet.

Unless your intention is to carve 2 halves & join them together, you're gonna need a way to index the rotation of the master & blank.

I've followed the copycarver site for many years now, it's a great setup for larger baits, gunstocks, decoys etc, but not sure if they have addressed the 360 indexing issue or not.

Ca'mon hurry up already,I have to have one of these!

B)

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I just got my router bits in the mail. However, I'm quite busy trying to get caught up on some orders with my smaller cranks and haven't got around to messing with the copy carver much. It is together and it looks like it will work. As far as 360 there is a method in the plans but Ed Waliki (designer) says its much faster to do one side at a time and focus on fine detail with a dremel. I'm not quite sure how the 360 thing would work according to the plans. However, the entire machine didn't really make sense until I was actually building it. Design is quite genius.

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Red, that is truly impressive and that type of thing is the reason I come to this website. It is just amazing to see what different minds devise and how guys modify the works and tricks of others to make them even better.

That thing is fascinating. I'm sure you thought of this already, but I'll bet you could also apply a sander to the same task. Off the top of my head, I could imagine a sander of the type where a long thing belt is suspended between two driving rollers. That would allow the blank to move the belt somewhat so as to not remove too much material too fast.

Great work.:worship::)

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The concept is brilliant.

Have you finished perfecting this machine,and started marketing it yet?

Do you have an estimated/actual price yet?

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WOW! That was the sickest thing I have ever seen!

I want one. :worship:

Heres a peek at one we've been working on.

This prototype was made simply for proof of concept, it has many flaws & it's quite dangerous, please dont attempt.

Once we're happy with the design, we'll make it available here.

Our prerequisites were that the materials be readily available, affordable & be able to build & use in a small shop.

Feedback welcomed.

8oSMf_1nLqE

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i've been cramped w/ tryin to graduate from purdue lately (and studyin for GRE) so haven't done much w/ the copy carver. I will say this, IT WORKS! The bluegill as my avatar is what I've been making w/ it. The avatar isn't a copycarver fish; however, it's identical to ones I have made. This is not an easy machine to build though! Unless you have access to EXTREMELY precise tools this machine will not perform perfectly. The hardest thing I have encountered is making my blank (raw form of the bluegill bait) perfectly centered and alligned w/ raw piece of wood. The way it works is that you "carve" your lure using the machine and then flip the blank and the peice of wood over in order to cut the other side. The problem you will find is that if you have any wood block mounting errors the sides of the bait will not be symetrical. The copy carver does NOT cut a clean smooth surface, rough sanding is required. What the copy carver is good for is duplicating your bait. After sanding, your bait is identical to the one you copied. My gill takes about 4 hours to cut/carve/ sand/ by hand. With the copycarver, it takes about 30min to cut/carve and about 10min to sand smooth.

Fun toy though, I have a feeling it has better places elsewhere than fishing lures. Still dangerous too! The router I had mounted first shot a blue flame 2ft into the air and was too hot to touch for over an hour!

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I too am working on a duplicator machine, however, it is still on the drawing board. Manufacture soon.

As I see it, making the blank by hand takes about 20 mins. I don't know what you are doing for four hours, must be drinking a lot of coffee. To make a dup m/c worth while, it should cut a blank in about 1 minute. Therefore, cutting the stock and final shaping should bring the final timing up to about 12 pieces per hour.

Please step on my neck if you think these times are unreasonable. Save me building the damn thing. I have invested so much thinking time into this project.

Dave

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I did fail to mention that that timespan included inserting wire and weight which are quite time consuming too but are not necessary for a blank. So that was a poor choice of wording and an incorrect discription of a blank. However, making a blank to mount requres its own engineering for the machine (further down describes the blank). Nevertheless, if you can cut/carve/and sand smooth a 3 segment bait (without wires and weight) in 20 min you are pretty darn good and very efficient.

My bluegill has 2 V shaped hinges and a hinge for the tail section. The hardest thing I encountered when doing this bait by hand is cutting these V hinge areas into the lure, just being barely off on these cuts causes a bait to lack perfect angles. Each hinge is made using 2 twisted wires (like what is shown for the hook placement). I was also using aspen, which is quite hard. The bulging belly of my gill holds weight/ rattle (so this section is cut in half, borred out, glued and resanded). The head of the bait has similar weighting. This bait has more definition then what meets the eye on the picture (defined gill plates) , which makes replicating by hand quite time consuming.

The beauty of the copycarver is that it gives me a rough start on all the definition of this bait.

My blank is actually the same size as the block of wood I start with and each segment of the lure is spaced with iron rods (so that instead of mounting each section and only cutting one segment at a time, I cut all 3 without re-mounting the blank more than twice (1 for each side). I'm mounting the blank right now w/ those insert nuts (that you pound into the wood base) so that it doesn't wobbled when cutting. Any imperfection in mounting of either the blank or the wood block results in an imperfect replica.

The guy that designed the copycarver actually does fish replica mounts, which is why I thought it would be perfect. Its easier to make details on a 25" salmon than it is on a 4.5" bluegill using this machine.

As much as I hate to admit it, I'm going to convert this bait to a plastic mold. I figure by doing this, I'll achieve a smooth surface (ready for paint), have my weight/rattle and wire for each section poured in. Haven't messed w/ plastic mold stuff yet, so thats a separate adventure.

I hope to get pics of this soon.

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A-Mac, in hind sight, my comments read a little harsh, sorry about that.

The stuff I am carving does not compare to the work you are doing. Mine are one piece, 2.5" bodies with no relief work, so 20 mins from block to slot and holes drilled, is reasonable.

Have you considered cutting the VEE shapes with a router (table mounted), quick and accurate. I'm sure I read recently of another TU member doing this method.

Some people like the carving stage, I am not one of them, this is why I am putting so much effort into the carving machine.

The machine I am working on will cut at 28 seconds per inch. The master screw is 14 threads per inch (tpi) and the machine is geared so that the stock is turning twice as fast, 2:1 geared. So the distance between cuts will be 0.036" (0.9mm). So I will expect to have to skim over the machined body with some 150 grit, to remove the ridges.

If I get the m/c to work, I may experiment with the gearing, to reduce the ridges, but this means BIG sprockets (chain drive).

Good luck with your project and get those pics up!

Dave

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Thats a super Idea and machine, I have only one question. What kind of setup (Jig) do you have for placing and locating the bill in the proper position for the proper depth you desire????

Jigman2:whistle:;)

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Jigman2. The nature of the beast is that you cannot rely on the machined lure being square to the stock block, because the stock is loaded by hand.

So after cutting the blank from the stock and finishing the ends. The blank will be loaded into a 2pc resin mold. This mold will have all the eye and ballast holes drilled in it, as a guide. Probably sleaved to reduce wear. Also the lip slot, again lined to reduce wear.

A short visit to the band saw to cut the lip slot. Collared drills to control the depth of the holes. This should control consistency without effort.

This is the plan anyway.

Dave

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here is my copy carver

------------------------------

moderator:

Images oversized, linked instead

------------------------------

Image: http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00074.jpg

Image: http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00073.jpg

Edited by redg8r
Images oversized, linked instead

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http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj100/amcalexa/IMG00077.jpg

this is about what the lure looks like after both sides have been cut. Timed myself this time. It took about 35min to cut both sides, which is longer than I had expected. As you can see in the pics, lots of sand work still needs to be done. The only advantage of this machine is giving me guidlines to cut the defined portions of the bait and I don't have to use a saw for anything more than hacking off a chunk of wood. Overall, I wouldn't waste time building this one. I can see where it would be cool to do something big and just use a router bit that is more coarse. Like I said, the guy that did the plans to build this machine does larger replica fish mounts and not 5" bluegills.

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Heres a peek at one we've been working on.

This prototype was made simply for proof of concept, it has many flaws & it's quite dangerous, please dont attempt.

Once we're happy with the design, we'll make it available here.

Our prerequisites were that the materials be readily available, affordable & be able to build & use in a small shop.

Feedback welcomed.

8oSMf_1nLqE

i have been searching for a machine to turn baits for a long time. after i watched this video for the 237th time, i gotta have one. would someone please tell me where i can get plans to build one?

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A-Mac, I really liked the machine. Although I wouldn't make one myself for cutting bodies, it has given me an idea for cutting lips.

Dave

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Welcome to TU AhmedWali.

I tried your links. Two of the links were pay sites. One didn't work and the other linked me up to screw fix, a tool shop with no duplicator machines.

Links are better if they take you directly to the object in question, directly, without further searches being required.

Dave

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Vodkaman, How is the progress coming along? I find myself having a long break. Drawing made up and parts been ready for assembly for about two months now. Kind of like most of my projects I rush into when I think about it. :mad:

See if I get some time to work on it in next weekend.

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My design is completed, I have all the parts and was about to start construction. Unfortunately, family problems meant I had to return to UK for a couple of months. I should be returning to Indonesia in 3 weeks time, when work will commence.

I am going with a router to start with, but the design is easily adaptable to change to the angle grinder with saw blade (as featured in Jerry's Duplicator machine).

First builds for me tend to take time, as I spend too much time staring at things. Also, rather than building a simple prototype, to test the ideas, I have designed it to completion, including guards, dust extraction, auto reverse, micro switches and control electronics. So the build is going to take more than a few hours.

I will keep you informed with results, positive or negative.

Dave

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Red - I found these about 12 month ago, I wish I could read Finnish/Sweedish!! The copier under yours, also shows considerable ingenuity, note the bearings, bike wheel centers and space must not have been a problem. pete

12 DAYS to Go

Pete - Google will translate for you.

This link should be a copy of a translation from Finnish to English. Some words do not get translated but you get the gist of the site.

Translated version of http://www.kalastus.com/keskustelu/messages/16/73087.html?1128772232=

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