11 replies to this topic
Posted 13 July 2010 - 06:04 PM
I assumed that signatures were put on with a extra fine point sharpie, but i have had some problems. I have been using deft for a couple coats then a coat of etex for top coat. Everytime i top coat the sharpie runs bad, and its really starting to tick me off. I thought maybe it was the deft chemicals so i just used etex on a bait and it still ran. I dont know what i am doing wrong, is something else used to put on signatures?? Do i need to let the sharpie dry longer or something?? I dunno any suggestions appreciated!
Posted 13 July 2010 - 07:20 PM
I use water slide decal paper for signatures and photo finishes on baits. You will need some type of photo editing program to edit the signature you want as well as a quality printer. Also the water slide decal paper and ink fixative. If you don't like this idea then check the posts below.
Posted 14 July 2010 - 10:33 AM
Any detail done with a Sharpie can run if coated with solvent based topcoat, and Etex contains solvent. Some guys spray over sharpie with clear acrylic paint to avoid the problem. I use a fine point calligraphy pen ($2 at a craft store) and dip it in Createx black. It does a signature with finer line than an ultrafine Sharpie.
Posted 14 July 2010 - 01:19 PM
when i used sharpies or similar pens i foungd signing between layers of topcoats gave a better result than signing the bait before topcoating but you still got the odd one that run.
nowadays i use eddings 8404 water based permanent markers and have never had one run in over 3 years
Posted 15 July 2010 - 06:34 PM
Thanks for the advise everyone!...i like the decal idea because the signatures would be perfect and the same everytime, but how do you put your own signature in the computer, or do you just use a cursive type of font??? RayburnGuy where do you get the paper and fixative?
Posted 15 July 2010 - 10:34 PM
I found an artist pen at the local Hobby Lobby made by Faber Castell and the pen is indian ink and waterproof. It comes in different sizes. The one I uses is 'XS' ... very small.
Works great. In fact, I have actually signed baits before and turned around and cleared then without the signature running, etc.
Posted 16 July 2010 - 12:21 AM
Depends. You have a camera or a digital camera? Sign your name very large on a plain white piece of paper with a wide magic marker. Take a picture or scan it. Convert it to monochrome, delete any speckles, and then shrink it down to size.
Posted 16 July 2010 - 12:23 AM
If you have a photo editing program you can use your own signature or any of the multiple fonts available. You will also need a printer that is capable of photo printing for best results. To use your own signature just sign your name on a piece of white paper, take a photo of it, or scan it, and then save the picture on your computer. Open the signature photo in your photo editing program and crop it to size. The reason for using white paper to sign your name on is that printers don't print white backgrounds. They are programmed to print on white paper and use that white background as the white portions of what your printing. You will need to play around with the size ratio in your photo editing program to get your image the right size to fit on your baits. Only way I know of doing this is by trial and error. You just keep playing with the image size until you get it like you want it. I'm sure there are better ways of doing this, but I don't know them. Once you get the name sized to meet your needs you can copy and paste the name onto a fresh image multiple times and then print that image out. This enables you to print hundreds of name images on one sheet of the decal paper and then cut them out as needed instead of trying to print out one name at a time. The reason for cropping the picture is so your not trying to copy and paste the whole picture of your signature which will be mostly white background. You will of course need to space the names out to allow room for cutting. You can use scissors, razor blades, hobby knives, etc. to cut them out with. I have one of the photo cutting boards with a rolling blade and alignment grids on it that I use.
I get my paper and fixative from http://www.papilio.com/ I personally use an inkjet printer and use the proper paper and fixative for it. They also have waterslide decal material for laser printers, but I can't tell you anything about those. The menu on the left of the page will guide you to the proper media selection for your printer. Don't forget to order the proper ink fixative when ordering the decal paper. The decal "paper" is actually a thin sheet of plastic with a paper backing. If you don't give the ink time to dry and then apply the fixative the ink will smear when you dip it into water to release the backing before applying to your lure. One other tip that might help is to place the decal with the wet backing onto your lure in the position you want it and then gently slide the backing out from under it. If you try to slide the decal off of the backing and then apply it to your lure your in for trouble as it will try to curl and make positioning extremely aggravating. Wetting the lure before applying the decal also helps in positioning it. Once you have the decal where you want it just give it time to dry and then clear coat over it. You might want to apply a thin clear coat to the bait before adding the decal if your using water based paint. This is really very simple once you do it a couple of times.
I've also had some luck on a couple photo finish lures done with this same process. It doesn't work all that well on baits with multiple contours, but is fairly easy with flat-sided baits such as Rattle Traps. You can take a look at the baits I did this way in the gallery on my profile page if your interested.
If you have anymore questions or if I can help in any way just holler.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 16 July 2010 - 12:26 AM.
Posted 16 July 2010 - 08:22 AM
Posted 16 July 2010 - 12:00 PM
I ran into this same problem of the ink running. I solved this by letting the signature ink dry and them putting a light coat of a product called "hard as Nails" over it. The product is used as a clear coat over fingernails.
Posted 16 July 2010 - 10:25 PM
I use the fine point Sharpie for my lure sigs with E-Tex..I first apply a thin sealer coat of D2T (Devcon 2 Ton) over signature area, let cure, then apply multiple layers of E-Tex as my topcoating.. The sigs have never ran.. If I apply E-Tex directly over the Sharpie without sealing first w/D2T, it runs and/or totally disappears, but never when I first seal it w/D2T..
If by deft you mean Polyurethane Deft, its probably not a good enough sealant to protect against the solvents in the E-Tex.. I have used poly Deft for many years in my woodworking projects, its a great interior wood finish but I doubt it can seal against the E-Tex solvents.. The Deft itself may also contain enough solvents to mess up your sig as well.. It can lift regular ink pens as I had that problem w/Deft when signing my wood toys.. But I am 100% certain that E-Tex will lift Sharpies if you dont seal the sig properly first..
Switch pens as others have already suggested or change your sealer to Devcon 2 Ton then apply your E-Tex..I've been doing it this way for 2 yrs with no problems..
Posted 17 July 2010 - 10:59 PM
What is wrong with a $2.99 Mirco pen?? Sign it, hit it with the hair dryer, and your done.