Has anyone used kbs diamond finish for a crankbaits top coat?????
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90 replies to this topic
#2
Advanced Member
Posted 19 July 2010 - 01:53 PM
From reading the description (http://www.cleanclas...m/dificlqu.html) it looks promising because it's a high solids one part auto clear, not a 2 part finish with high toxicity. What remains to be answered is its durability. Why not try some and report back to the community?
#3
Advanced Member
Posted 20 July 2010 - 09:28 AM
I emailed them and asked if their finish was compatible with water based paints like Createx.
I'll let you know if they respond. #4
Member
Posted 21 July 2010 - 04:39 PM
I just looked at this and it sure looks like it's the exact same product as Pelucid or trying to compete against it. I may be wrong but the characteristics, specs etc match. Nasty stuff. Aliphatic urethane. Moisture cured. Can gets sealed and the stuff cures out very quick when opened. Same as Dick Nite's too or very similar.
http://www.kbs-coati...rcoat-info.html
I emailed them and asked if their finish was compatible with water based paints like Createx. I'll let you know if they respond. #5
Advanced Member
Posted 22 July 2010 - 04:27 PM
Here's the response to my email, asking if it would work for coating a lure that's been painted with Createx, or a similar water based, heat set paint:
"It should work just fine so long as your paint is FULLY cured. It is a sealer and would be great for that application. I would let it cure for a week before use, also depends on how many coats. Product is a moisture cure so once can is opened it would need to be used up 2-4 months. Proper handling can get you on the longer side:ie do not paint from can , do not pour paint you have been paining from back in can , keep lid off only to stir and get more paint." It does sound like it's finicky. #6
Member
Posted 22 July 2010 - 07:12 PM
I got some kbs ordered just waiting on it to try thanks for the info so far.
The pint was around 35.00 and quart was almost 50.00 #7
Advanced Member
Posted 23 July 2010 - 07:50 AM
I emailed them back to see what the curing time was, and explaingin that I currently use Target Coatings' urethanes.
Here's Brad Brackett's reply. He's the rep. who answered my first email. "I am not familiar with the coatings you are using but the Diamond Finish will work wonderful directly to the wood or over another coating. I would give a week for full cure and waterproof." Matty, Kudos to you for taking the plunge to buy so and try it. I can't wait to hear how it works for you. Please give us a report. Thanks from all of us. Edited by mark poulson, 23 July 2010 - 07:51 AM. #8
Advanced Member
Posted 23 July 2010 - 08:27 AM
I got some kbs ordered just waiting on it to try thanks for the info so far. The pint was around 35.00 and quart was almost 50.00 Hope you've given some thought about how your going to use, as well as store, the KBS. From what I've read on this post it will act much like DN. You will probably need to invest in some Bloxygen if you plan on dipping or spraying the KBS. If you plan on brushing it on then tapping the bottom of the container with a sheet metal screw would probably be the way to go so the container lid never has to be opened. Would hate to see it go bad in the container after only a few uses. Moisture cure finishes can do this if precautions aren't put in place to prevent it. Good luck........................... #9
Member
Posted 27 July 2010 - 01:49 PM
It don't smell like pelucid etc. It smells like a cross between naptha and mineral spirits. I dipped a small lure in it this afternoon so lets see what it looks like tomorrow. Still very sticky about 1 hour after dipping. boogers non existent on the bottom, slight crown of extra material at the bottom of the lure. It's got about a ~90 gloss on it wet and looks deep. I don't plan on changing to the stuff but curious to see what it does as a one part.
I just looked at this and it sure looks like it's the exact same product as Pelucid or trying to compete against it. I may be wrong but the characteristics, specs etc match. Nasty stuff. Aliphatic urethane. Moisture cured. Can gets sealed and the stuff cures out very quick when opened. Same as Dick Nite's too or very similar. http://www.kbs-coati...http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat-info.html #10
Member
Posted 28 July 2010 - 03:57 AM
day two.
one word WOW
It don't smell like pelucid etc. It smells like a cross between naptha and mineral spirits. I dipped a small lure in it this afternoon so lets see what it looks like tomorrow. Still very sticky about 1 hour after dipping. boogers non existent on the bottom, slight crown of extra material at the bottom of the lure. It's got about a ~90 gloss on it wet and looks deep. I don't plan on changing to the stuff but curious to see what it does as a one part. #11
Member
Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:11 AM
No loss of gloss. Looks wet. Single coat. Opened, stirred, dipped, cleaned the rim and closed the can with plastic wrap in between.
Ok you got my attention. In goes the fingernail into the surface. I dented the wood. Rip my fingernail across it...nuh uh that ain't happening. Ok now you REALLY got my attention. 15 hours and it's this durable? I see a few problems with it. One is the storage issue in the can, guys dipping I could see this flashing off in a few days. Wonder how it works brushing... The other problem is they warn thick coats can trap co2 inside the top layer in the form of bubbles...I think I see this on the lure I dipped, I haven't louped it yet at 10x power but it sure "feels" like a bunch of bubbles collected in the corner of the eye and at the bottom of the lure where the natural drip occurs from hanging-I think even if you dipped with the stuff you would have to go back and wipe the boogers off on bottom edges... FWIW I have used DN in the past, wasn't a big fan of it, didn't like the smell, didn't like how it acted on the lures for a bunch of reasons. This stuff is something to seriously look at. I compare it to DN and go with this already. This is a single coat on pine and it has the durability of epoxy. It remains to be seen how it works with water and fish but i'll stick it on a few bodies and see. I'd say these guys have come pretty close to the holy grail of fishing lure topcoats.
day two. one word WOW Attached Files
#12
Advanced Member
Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:34 AM
SB, the two groups of small bubbles looks like breaches in the seal coat, rather than a problem with the top coat. It just seems strange that all the bubbles are grouped in two locations. Looking forward to seeing more results.
Thankyou for taking the time and effort to report your findings. Dave #13
Member
Posted 28 July 2010 - 04:54 AM
I have dipped my lure and it's been around 16 hrs.
I have all the same results as SB. The only bubbles I have I right around the lures left eye. To me it is nothing. I hung my lure also but I rotated it by hand for about 8 minutes. Less sag once I hung it so I didn't have as much at the bottom eye. Fumes were very mild. Stored my Diamond finish in the same fashion. The test of durability is yet to come and I am waiting a few days for the test. I used a rapala dt 6 and createx paint, the next lure will be HOK paint. #14
Member
Posted 28 July 2010 - 06:35 AM
The lure was hung by the hook in the front. The bubbles are where the topcoat had puddled after it was dipped and ran. It was not wiped off on purpose. Drip dry. There are no other bubbles in any other places. It's not a defect in the sealer. The bubble issue only happened on the thick parts where it ran. The literature says one of the drawbacks is co2 bubbles trapped under the surface layer on thick coats. IMO exactly what happened here. Am wondering if this is cut with their thinner if it would eliminate this issue all together. I'm betting a thinner dip would allow it to flow out better.
#15
Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 06:04 AM
Day 3 the stuff is rock hard. Even the area at the bottom and in the eye cannot be dug into at the slightest with your fingernail. Small bubbles did not disappear. Did a 1/16" cross hatch yesterday and passed very nicely. The adhesion on the cup hook was incredible. Took a hard scraping with an xacto knife to do damage.
Today I'm going to sink this to the bottom of a bucket for 24 hours. Let's see what it does. Matty did you fish yours yet? Edited by saltybugger, 29 July 2010 - 06:05 AM. #16
Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 08:18 AM
Not yet but I coated four more lures early this morning and withinn a half hour one of th lures paint started cracking or foiling like or wrinkling.
Do you or anyone know why? #17
Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:01 AM
paint not dry or too thick top coat I think. Dipping or brushing?
#18
Advanced Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:12 AM
When I dip with my urethane, I watch the lures for the first 15 minutes or so, and dab any bubbles or drips with a paper towel corner to remove them as they form.
Eye recesses trap air, and it can escape as the top coat sets, causing bubbles, too. The corner of a paper towel will blot those up. I typically dip three times with my jointed swimbait sections, so I don't worry that the finish might be too thin if I blot the first time around. I know the next two dips will cover completely, and the areas I blot, typically at the eye recesses and at the hook hangers or bottom of the sections, are covered well by the second coat. #19
Advanced Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 12:20 PM
I'm hoping you guys will keep us informed of any storage issues that may occur in the future. Things like curing in the container, loss of clarity, etc.
thanks, RG #20
Advanced Member
Posted 29 July 2010 - 01:31 PM
i'm pretty excited about this stuff! i'd like to hear about any storage issues that come up before i buy. so both of you that have tried it are stirring, dipping from the can, cleaning the edge of the can, and then putting the lid back on with plastic wrap between the can and lid?
please keep us updated with this clearcoat! 
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