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Kbs Diamond Finish

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i'm realllllllly tempted to buy some of this. i've been using target coatings lately and in my experiences they don't have squat for durability. the clear peels off and takes the paint with it. i've been eyeing DN for a while but haven't wanted to drop money on it yet.

this stuff looks really promising and is considerably cheaper than DN. i just gotta hear about any storage issues before i commit...

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You need to fix underlying coating problems first if that is happening. This says it's failing paint to primer.

Edit..I continue to be impressed with the stuff and dipped another popper this morning. This one is a bit cleaner. I'm going to try two dips on this one.

i'm realllllllly tempted to buy some of this. i've been using target coatings lately and in my experiences they don't have squat for durability. the clear peels off and takes the paint with it. i've been eyeing DN for a while but haven't wanted to drop money on it yet.

this stuff looks really promising and is considerably cheaper than DN. i just gotta hear about any storage issues before i commit...

Edited by saltybugger

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Hey DSV, try anything other than the target coatings..........I think Elmer's glue would work as well as Target Coatings.

Dick Nite is a good coating and my only real complaint with it is the issue with storage. Oh, and it stinks too! lol

RM

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Hey DSV, try anything other than the target coatings..........I think Elmer's glue would work as well as Target Coatings.

Dick Nite is a good coating and my only real complaint with it is the issue with storage. Oh, and it stinks too! lol

RM

haha i agree!!!

i definitely will try this kbs diamond finish here pretty soon. just gonna let this thread run a little longer ;)

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Since it cures over a week, I'm wondering if it isn't another moisture cured polyurethane. I've tried 2 brands so far, Famowood and Dick Nite. Cost seems almost identical for the 3 brands. The Famowood was much thicker than the DN, which is formulated to suit the viscosity requirement of Dick Nite for dip coating painted spoons. The storage issues sound similar. If you guys aren't using the stuff completely within 2-3 months, I'd recommend reading up on and following some of the threads about how to preserve Dick Nite. JMHO, it gets expensive to pay $50 for a quart of topcoat and then having to throw half of it away when it auto-cures in the can. Just tamping the can lid back down with a plastic liner won't hack it (I know!). When the finish level gets down to about 50%, there's enough moist air in the can to begin the cure process.

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You have a point so far I have used the plastic and pecking the lid down tight before I peck the lid down I shoot in some propane. Working so far.

I want to keep dipping my lures or I would use the screw method. A friend of mine redone golf clubs and he used a similar fashion.

If you have any ideas for storing let me know. KBS doesn't specify on there site the foremost way to store.

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one of you guys should try brushing it on and seeing what kind of finish that produces. then you could tap the can with a sheet metal screw and just dispense enough to brush a lure without having to open the can again. i'm still not quite sure how this seals well enough to keep from leaking but guys have started using this method.

Edited by DSV

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The first lure I dipped and hung to dry. Looks good feels good haven't fished yet. Sealed can with plastic and lid. Everything good so far. Perfect awesome

The second time I used kbs was for four lures. I dipped and placed on a lure dryer rotating lure from up down or lip to tale NOT cork screw fashion. Lures looked good at start but quickly got hundreds of little tiny bubbles and one lure the paint looks wrinkled or foiled.

Both times was createx water based paint.

The second batch was the first time I used a lure dryer. It spins at or close to 5rpm. It's a microwave motor.

WHAT DID I DO WRONG OR IS IT KBS.

Matty - same here for all the posted solutions on skinning and the wet paint issues, but I have had this 'bubble problem' happen a lot with other coatings (over W/B acrylics)- the bubbles might be coming from under the paint, the air may be bleeding up through it (which may be pours), this would be much worse on a hot day where there is a temp differential between the outside air and the air inside the lure- the cure (for me anyway) is to spray a few (3) light coats of clear sealer over the paint before finishing (let it DRY) then add your coating - of course, beforehand making sure it is compatible with the clear under coating.

Pete

Edited by hazmail

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Matty,

Based on my understanding of KBS, it is a moisture cured poly similar to DN and the Pelucid which I have tried. In Aus I think it is marketted as a competitor to Pelucid so I assume they are similar but dont know. I looked into the KBS and decided to try Pelucid instead (for no reason), since then have been distracted with other coatings, however, if it is similar to Pelucid or DN you will need a decent storage solution. I dont know about propane, however, I the argon I use keeps all of my topcoats from hardening in the can. They have made it probably 6 months now and dont look like setting in the can.

With regards your wrinking issue, same for all the other suggestions previously mentioned. I would also not recommend turning them in a lure dryer along a similar line to what Bobp has said previously in other posts. The pelucid which I have used form's a skin very quickly and remains liquid underneath for a period of time. I can imagine if it were turning in a rotator it would be sloshing around and affecting your pain job. With Pelucid, if I let a droplet form on the bottom of the lure after dipping it is very soft yet dry to the touch.

Anyway, keep us informed on how you go, I am very interested to hear the end result, particularly how long it takes to dry. I gave up on the Pelucid due to the drying time, so will be interesting to see how this stuff goes. There is no easier way to topcoat than dipping in my opinion.

Angus

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It is humid here in OH USA right now but to the touch it was dry after about six hours. I finger nail tested it around 16 hours and was very impressed then at that same time I found something else out, my stir stick was not cleaned and it is a plastic one with a 16hour cure off KBS on it.

I bent that stir stick almost to a doubled over. The KBS flexed with the stick.

No cracking.

No stress or stretch marks.

No dull spots etc.

I straightened the stir stick and it looked as if I done nothing to the clear coat at all. AWESOME. YES

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It is humid here in OH USA right now but to the touch it was dry after about six hours. I finger nail tested it around 16 hours and was very impressed then at that same time I found something else out, my stir stick was not cleaned and it is a plastic one with a 16hour cure off KBS on it.

I bent that stir stick almost to a doubled over. The KBS flexed with the stick.

No cracking.

No stress or stretch marks.

No dull spots etc.

I straightened the stir stick and it looked as if I done nothing to the clear coat at all. AWESOME. YES

Yep all this moisture cure stuff is certainly tough - I smashed a puck of 'Plucid' from the bottom of a dried up jar about 18 months back, it is about 3/8" thick and it still bends, and is as clear as day one (very light pink).

Pete

Edited by hazmail

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Problem with pelucid is the stuff has a toxicity rating just below a atom bomb and it tends not to stick to alot of stuff. Sheets off. This stuff is harder than pelucid also from what I've seen so far. And the bending is one of the issues I've seen with it too...it never seems to really "harden" all the way.

Yep all this moisture cure stuff is certainly tough - I smashed a puck of 'Plucid' from the bottom of a dried up jar about 18 months back, it is about 3/8" thick and it still bends, and is as clear as day one (very light pink).

Pete

Edited by saltybugger

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Problem with pelucid is the stuff has a toxicity rating just below a atom bomb and it tends not to stick to alot of stuff. Sheets off. This stuff is harder than pelucid also from what I've seen so far. And the bending is one of the issues I've seen with it too...it never seems to really "harden" all the way.

would you consider the flexibility an "issue"? as long as its hard enough to where you can't dent it at all with your fingernail, i think flexibility would be an asset, not an issue.

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would you consider the flexibility an "issue"? as long as its hard enough to where you can't dent it at all with your fingernail, i think flexibility would be an asset, not an issue.

I think that depends on what kind of lure you're making.

A hard plastic lure, or one made of PVC or resin, doesn't need a bullet proof hard coating, since it is already hard enough to stop tooth penetration.

But, generally speaking, a softer wood needs a harder top coat for tooth protection, unless it's sealed really well.

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anybody tried brushing the finish yet? i'm interested in seeing how this stuff is when applied with a brush.

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I wish they offered the stuff in an aerosol can.....it would be very convenient to be able to spray it without using an airbrush.

RM

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Sorry I took so long guys and gals.

I have tested my KBS top coat and was successful.

I fished two lures all day with no fail catching walleye bass and catfish.

Createx water based paint.

One dip of KBS.

KBS was cured for two weeks before fished.

No chips or even scratches yet.

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Are there issues with storage with this clear coat like there are with DN? Also, has anyone tried spraying it?

thx.

Jed

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I have never sprayed probably won't far a while.

As for storage I have only had it a month maybe with no problems yet.

I dip and reseal can with new plastic between the lid every time.

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Have you guys that are using the KBS noticed any storage issues yet? Any signs of clumps, thick spots or things like that?

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Are you guys using the top coat or the clear coat? Any idea what the difference is?

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I'm thinking about giving this a try? KBS website says its incredibly tough and remains permanently flexible. It also says it can be brushed on without leaving marks because its self leveling. I think I would brush on a 2-3 coats? I am having pretty could luck with 2 part epoxies but I am getting some hook and teeth marks. I build musky lures and the big hooks are hard on the lures along with the teeth. This could be some good stuff according to their website. The only down fall is the stuff curing in the can? I think I would tap the bottom with a sheet metal screw and a rubber washer. The other thing is the smell? For those who have used it how do you think it would work for me? Any info would be great!!

Thanks

CLM

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I THINK it will work I have been using it on bass lures and I tournament fish I'm hard on lures. No problems yet.

I only dip once.

Never tried brushing yet.

The smell is very mild.

I stirred KBS with a plastic stir stick, after that stick covered with KBS was dry I bent that stick over double with no cracking or stretch marks or any other marks.

Awesome stuff.

As far as curing in can I have had the same can over a month ok so far.

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Matty et all

I threw a few racks together today of micro scuttlebuggers and shot them with all different colors. These two racks represent a new way of doing things here, dip seal, dip primer, spray and dip clear. Up until this point I've always dip sealed then sprayed from there out so this is something a bit different. I wanted to see how much faster adding as many dips as possible was compared to spraying. Much faster.

Last time I dipped a bunch of stuff and sealed the can with saran wrap. So I open up my KBS and IT'S HARD AS A ROCK...

LOL not. It was just fine. I dipped 50 lures. Some drawbacks to this stuff. It creeps.... If you dip you can't sprinkle any glitter on the lure...it creeps no matter how long you wait in the first 20 min or so. So it takes an extra step...STEPS....because I went back twice in the course of an hour and a half and found little beads on the bottom of the lure which had to be wiped off with a brush. The first time was about 20 minutes after they dipped and dripped...the second time was surprising because there didn't look like there was any more to drip. So you have to dip, let it sit for a long while, then go back and sprinkle glitter on them if that's what you do. Time consuming...

Also the second time I went back to check them, when I wiped them with the brush I got thick stringy clear coming off the end of the lure where the brush touched...it's very touchy you have to hit the stuff at just the right time.

Anyways I wanted to see how the stuff worked out with some freshwater lures going to some shops. It has a bunch of drawbacks but I do love the clarity and look of the lures with it on.

Resealed the can with bloxygen and saran again also...had to clean the lid off with pliers there was a bunch of dried gook on there even though I had wiped it pretty good before.

See how it works on the next batch I plan on spraying it to see how it works out.

Attaching a couple of pics to show how the stuff looks close up. Camera isn't that good. post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

post-11475-090127300 1282598828_thumb.jpg

post-11475-085072800 1282598874_thumb.jpg

Edited by saltybugger

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