Jump to content
Kbs Diamond Finish
90 replies to this topic
Posted 27 August 2010 - 09:27 AM
I haven't tried that particular finish, but, if I dip a lure and bubbles appear, I use an artists brush, wetted with the same finish, to burst them while they hang. I typically watch a dipped lure for the first half hour, periodically blotting off any drips or buildups, so it's easy to take care of bubbles at the same time.
I only dip cranks once, and don't seem to get any imperfections from blotting or bubble bursting that way.
I sometimes get bubbles at the eyes of my swimbaits, because I use stick on eyes over the recesses I make using a Forstner bit, which can leave a hollow under the eye. Since I dip my swimbaits three times, it's no big deal to take care of any imperfections that I might cause when I burst those bubbles.
A little attention when you first hang a dipped lure should let you deal with bubbles.
Posted 27 August 2010 - 03:27 PM
I guarantee no matter how anal you want to be that you will still get bubbles on these. It happens hours after they are dipped. How many hours I don't know but I've looked at the lures up to 2 hours later and no bubbles then the next morning they've all got bubbles in any areas that were thicker than the rest..
Edited by saltybugger, 27 August 2010 - 03:28 PM.
Posted 27 August 2010 - 04:39 PM
Are you dipping wood or plastic lures?
Posted 27 August 2010 - 07:13 PM
This might sound dumb (so what else is new) but maybe the top coat is reacting with the glue on the backs of the eyes.
As a test, you could put a drop of it on the back of an eye, and see if it dissolves the glue, or makes bubbles.
You could also wait to add the eyes until the second dipping, to be sure the area beneath the eyes is sealed, to see if that helps.
I squeeze my stick on eyes onto my lures really hard, and that may help, too.
Edited by mark poulson, 27 August 2010 - 07:16 PM.
Posted 27 August 2010 - 07:26 PM
I squeeze my eyes on also and the only time I got bubbles is when I used a lure turner.
Posted 31 August 2010 - 02:51 PM
Yesterday I got an email from kbs looking for feedback, since the telephone number was in front of me I called tech support. The guy says specifically that this bubbling is caused by the product being too thick. In this case too much is accumulating at the bottom of the lure. He suggested thinning 10-30% with their #1 thinner and trying again. Said that should work fine. I like that too because it's a thinner coat and faster drying I'm sure.
Posted 31 August 2010 - 03:07 PM
Glad to hear somebody did that.
Edited by rofish, 31 August 2010 - 03:12 PM.
Posted 31 August 2010 - 06:58 PM
When I stated that this stuff is "garbage" I meant compared to my system of using DN then etex. I can get a flawless finish with this system everytime. The kbs will leave bubbles everytime. I have put it on wood, a completely dried painted plastic bait with a very thin coat and also by itself in a dish and the result has always been bubbles. I was simply stating for the baits I sell it is unacceptable to have anything but a flawless finish, my customers expect it and they should. This stuff is definitly clear and very hard when set. When I started with DN and etex I had issues with them also but I learned to manipulate them, I haven't spent the time with KBS to learn to work with it, the reason is that everything I paint I sell. When I get some down time I will continue to " learn" more about KBS. I hope someone figures it out because it definitely has potential.
Posted 31 August 2010 - 09:26 PM
I dip my lures then hit the lure with my heat gun, the heat pops any existing bubbles and thins the cc out evenly. the next day i repeat the process and have a flawless finish. also avoid using it in high humidity.
Posted 31 August 2010 - 09:35 PM
Are you drip drying or on a turner?
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:16 AM
I do the same with my hair dryer, after the urethane has stopped dripping and skinned over. But I break any bubbles with an artist's brush, dipped in the urethane, because the hair dryer seems to move the finish around when it's fresh.
I think the heat accelerates the cure, and makes it hard faster.
Posted 03 October 2010 - 11:58 AM
Any of you guys using KB's have any updates to report?
Posted 03 October 2010 - 02:48 PM
I haven't coated any new lures yetbut the ones I did coat I fished all year. Some had bubbles some didn't they all held up good. I fish tourneys and can't complain on the durability of the coating. Bass tourneys that is.
One thing I noticed is a dt6 rapala with two dips very slowly sinks but doesn't seem to hinder action just fishes a little deeper than 6 ft.
Posted 03 October 2010 - 04:07 PM
Are you thinning the clear first or dipping with it full strength?
Posted 03 October 2010 - 05:23 PM
Full strength I rotate in my hand a little then hang to drip dry. I got bubbles like crazy once putting them on the lure dryer. once in a while I got bubbles around the eyes.
It was very humid and was using water base paint so I tossed it up to that.
Posted 03 October 2010 - 10:17 PM
How are you storing the KBS? Have you had any storage issues with it yet?
Posted 03 October 2010 - 10:47 PM
I haven't opened it for about a month so it's to early for me to say it has been fine every time so far lasting nearly 3 months to date. I give my word as I learn with this stuff so will all of you a TU. I owe all of you for helping me.
Posted 26 October 2010 - 01:58 PM
......I wonder how it would work as a clear coat on the top cap of my bass boat???.....
Posted 26 October 2010 - 03:06 PM
I brushed two display lures last week, came out ok, got two runs on each one that I didn't see. Rest of it turned out pretty good. The can has been opened 4 or 5 times now and always sealed with stretch wrap plastic. I picked the can up today and it's still sloshy liquid inside. If your going to use it occasionally you will need another few cans. I'm going to have a hard time opening this next time and I cleaned it up pretty good.
Posted 31 October 2010 - 11:07 AM
From what I've read thus far, KBS appears to have about all of the characteristics of the old DN formulation, which seem to be common to all one-part moisture-cure urethanes. RTU Createx Airbrush Colors must be thoroughly heat-cured before applying. I always brushed DN because it was fast, and I could control the amount of product on the lure, as opposed to dipping. Too heavy a coat, and you're apt to get bubble problems unless the product is kept nice and fresh and you allow excess to drip off. That is why dipping and then turning causes bubble problems with KBS: excess product is not allowed to drip off and the surface dries first. Keep the coating thin, and this won't happen; you'll be able to turn the lures then.
All of this really has been addressed in DN discussions. David Sullivan recently finished an entire pint of old-formula DN, using the tap-the-can-with-a-sheet-metal-screw method. Afterwards he opened the can and found, somewhat to his amazement...NOTHING. No deposits of cured DN whatsoever, nothing but an empty, shiny can.
I'm currently testing the new DN formulation which is not a moisture cure urethane, but an air-dried topcoat that can easily be applied by brush or dipping, thinned with water for spraying, and has no offensive odor. I've been fishing lures topcoated with this stuff, and though these baits haven't had time to fully cure, I am amazed at the hardness, clarity, ease of storage and application, and the durability they've shown thus far. From what I'm seeing, the new DN is the future of topcoats. I've encountered no negatives YET, nor have I spoken with anyone else, including Dick concerning any other testing results, so I'm adding the cautionary note here, while further testing is being carried out. So far though, I'm very impressed!
Sorry for going slightly off-topic here.