Handling And Drying Big Jointed Baits

[capt mike]

How do you all dry a topcoat on a big jointed bait and how do you hold it while painting it on. I know some of you use a motor to keep the bait turning, but it seems like the jointed baits' sections would constantly move and touch each other while rotating. What is the best method. tools etc. Maybe a photo of what you use would be great.

[gunnie3035]

I don't know if this is the best method, but I use rubber bands to hold the joints.

[capt mike]

I don't know if this is the best method, but I use rubber bands to hold the joints.

I don't follow you.

[BobP]

Depends on the type of joints you have. If you use interlinked screw eyes, wrapping the joint in a rubber band will immobilize it while you brush on a clear coat. I strongly prefer to paint and clear coat the sections of the bait separately and then glue the section joints into the body.

[mark poulson]

I assemble the lures and prime them with rattle can primer while they hang vertically from my hand.

After the primer has dried, I suspend them between two screws, on a piece of plywood that I use for a painting backdrop, with a big paper clip at one end and a strong rubber band attached to anothe paper clip at the other end, to keep the lure stretched and aligned while I paint it.

Then I disassemble it.

I dip the individual parts in urethane three times before I reassemble them.

When I used epoxy, I would coat the insides of the joints first with D2T, lapping it out onto the side faces for a good lap, and then reassemble the lure, and put it on my drying wheel to apply two coats of either Etex or NuLustre 55. I used paper clips to suspend the lure between the two plywood side wheels in my BBQ motor/spit powered, ferris wheel shaped drying wheel. There's a picture of it in my gallery, if that helps.

[atrophius]

as far as rubber bands holding lures on a turner, here is a link with a photo.lure turner it will hold the joints open. I would really only recommend it if you are coating the linkage with some rubber masking or something since the topcoat with lock your joint. I prefer to do what others say, paint and clear coat separately. i usually use a pin and eye screw joint, so you can top coat the section with the eyes, then the section with the pin(minus the pin), and then put it together sealing the pin hole with your topcoat.

[mark poulson]

I assemble the lures and prime them with rattle can primer while they hang vertically from my hand.

After the primer has dried, I suspend them between two screws, on a piece of plywood that I use for a painting backdrop, with a big paper clip at one end and a strong rubber band attached to anothe paper clip at the other end, to keep the lure stretched and aligned while I paint it.

Then I disassemble it.

I dip the individual parts in urethane three times before I reassemble them.

When I used epoxy, I would coat the insides of the joints first with D2T, lapping it out onto the side faces for a good lap, and then reassemble the lure, and put it on my drying wheel to apply two coats of either Etex or NuLustre 55. I used paper clips to suspend the lure between the two plywood side wheels in my BBQ motor/spit powered, ferris wheel shaped drying wheel. There's a picture of it in my gallery, if that helps.

I just checked, and there is a photo of my wheel, in a group of pics titled My Paint Area. I think it's on page three.

[Vodkaman]

Found it in 'my paint shop', page 4.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/3592-my-paint-shop/

Dave

Edited July 26, 2010 by Vodkaman

[mark poulson]

Found it in 'my paint shop', page 4.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/3592-my-paint-shop/

Dave

Ha,ha, I can't even get my own stuff straight.

Thanks for the help Dave.

[DeltaMan]

I have heard of using a hot glue gun to keep the clear coat out of the joints but i don't know that that solves your dilema.