RiverMan

Need Storage Container Ideas For Dn

11 posts in this topic

Greetings fellow builders,

I have two bottles filled with DN and I want to try the "screw in the can idea" to remove it. Now I need to find a metal container I can move the DN into that will hold a self-tapping screw.

Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe about those little metal cans that paint and wood stain come in but I want to start with something clean.

Jed

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Greetings fellow builders,

I have two bottles filled with DN and I want to try the "screw in the can idea" to remove it. Now I need to find a metal container I can move the DN into that will hold a self-tapping screw.

Any suggestions? I was thinking maybe about those little metal cans that paint and wood stain come in but I want to start with something clean.

Jed

I have bought new paint cans at a hardware store.

I have something I am going to try that I already have. Here is a pic My link

This has a collapsible inner container. When you pour in your DN, push all of the air out and then put the cap on. Then when you need some take off the cap and push out how much you need, put the cap back on and no air ever enters the container. I have a lot of these and use them with my CSI paint. Mainly because they screw to the top of my paint gun and I don't have to clean out the paint cup

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That looks like it would work so long as the DN doesn't damage the inner line.

I ended up using an empty paint can. I put the screw in after starting it in a tiny hole but it's really loose now and I'm worried too much air will get in.

RM

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If your going to try the screw in the can method of storage then the best thing to do is tap the can the DN is shipped in. That way your not transferring it from one container to another and thus risking exposure to moisture laden air. When I do it this way I turn the can upside down and poke a small hole in the side at what is now the top with an ice pick and then use a self tapping metal roofing screw to seal the hole. While the can is still upside down I spray some Bloxygen into the can and then seal it with the sheet metal screw. This way there is always a blanket of Bloxygen between the surface of the DN and any air that might get into the can once the can is turned upright.

The containers with the collapsible inner liner might work, but keep in mind that DN reacts negatively with some plastics. Let us know how this method works out.

just my twocents.gif

RG

Edited by RayburnGuy

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Thank you.............I started with a small hole in the can as you suggested and then used a self tapping screw. I can see a few bubbles coming out around the screw tho so I know it is leaking some. I don't have any bloxygen.........wish there was a better way to store the stuff. What a hassle! I'm really surprised DN has not come up with something better.

Jed

Edited by RiverMan

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i don't see how the screw seals the hole?? also, how do you get your DN out? do you take the screw all the way out or something? can someone give me the basics of tapping w/ a screw?

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......... I don't have any bloxygen.........wish there was a better way to store the stuff. What a hassle! I'm really surprised DN has not come up with something better.

Jed

Gorilla Glue has the same curing problem, just cures slower. After complaining to several hardware stores, some guys said just store the glue upside down. Now I take off the cap, squirt out what glue I need, air goes into the plastic bottle and floats up to the bottom of the container, I put the cap back on and, and it fits nicely in a full roll of toilet paper until needed again.

Keep us posted about the screw-in-the-can-bottom approach, OK?

John

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I sure wish someone would come up with something simple. I save my new painted baits until I have about forty, I buy my DN in the two ounce cans so I don't lose much and throw away the remainder when i am done for the day. I only paint in the summer ; usually about eighty baits so its not to expensive to only use two small cans.

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i don't see how the screw seals the hole?? also, how do you get your DN out? do you take the screw all the way out or something? can someone give me the basics of tapping w/ a screw?

The sheet metal screws I use are the ones that are used for fastening metal sheets onto metal buildings. They have a metal cup that fits up against the head of the screw with a rubber washer on them. When the screw is tightened it presses the rubber washer against whatever it's being screwed into and forms a seal this way. Capt. Sully is the one who told me about storing DN this way and I believe he uses a plain sheet metal screw without the washer and has had no problems storing it this way. A small amount of the DN will seep out around the edges of the screw and will form a seal on it's own. The one thing you don't want to do is try and tighten the screw so much that it ends up tearing the hole out which will blow any chance of getting it to seal. To get the DN out you just back off the screw a little and the DN will start to flow out. You don't have to take the screw completely out for it to start flowing. Just draw out however much you need into a small container and reseal by tightening the screw. Doing it this way is only for those who brush their top coats. You would waste too much top coat drawing out enough to dip baits this way and you sure don't want to pour the contaminated product back into your storage container as it would ruin the whole batch.

Another method of storing DN for those that want to dip their baits is to store it in a Mason jar. (can't remember who told me about doing it this way method........sorry) You will need to use Bloxygen with this method every time you reseal the jar though. After dipping your baits just spray a little Bloxygen into the Mason jar, seal the lid and turn it upside down for storage. I'm presently storing it this way and it seems to be working as I've had the latest batch of DN stored this way for about two months. Saving your baits until you have quite a few to top coat is a good idea as this will minimize the number of times you expose the DN to the moisture in the air which is exactly what starts the curing process.

Let me say this about DN. Is it a pain in the butt to store? Yes, without a doubt. But once you get around the storage hassles it's the best top coat I've found (and I've tried several) for putting a durable, clear, UV resistant coating on your lures. This is just my opinion and I'm not trying to re-start the dreaded top coat wars found in previous posts. If there was only one "best" then there would only be one top coat as everyone would want to use it.

just my twocents.gif,

RG

Edited by RayburnGuy
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Gorilla Glue has the same curing problem, just cures slower. After complaining to several hardware stores, some guys said just store the glue upside down. Now I take off the cap, squirt out what glue I need, air goes into the plastic bottle and floats up to the bottom of the container, I put the cap back on and, and it fits nicely in a full roll of toilet paper until needed again.

Keep us posted about the screw-in-the-can-bottom approach, OK?

John

That's a great idea. Thanks.

I have thrown away a lot of Gorilla Glue that's turned too think to use. I don't use it that much, but when I do, I always have some left over.

I used to buy the bigger bottles because we used it a lot on the job, and it got used before it thickened.

But now I buy the small bottles.

The TP roll is a good idea.

The bonus is having a roll of TP handy for when I drop a freshly painted lure, and sh!t!! :lol:

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I've been using a product called xtend-it from smooth-on for my DN. This is intended for urethane resins; however, its worked just as well as the bloxygen so far for me and you get a LOT more shots.

I ordered the quart of DN and distributed out amounts into the 1/4th sized mason jars and from these into even smaller jars. The less often that you can manage to open your main container (holding the most DN) the better! This is why I distribute it in levels to the smaller jars. After opening the smaller jars enough, the DN will thicken (regardless of using bloxygen every time). Every time the lid is cracked moister is absorbed. From the smaller containers, I use a syringe to remove only enough DN for the lures I'm working on and quickly seal the container (with a shot of xtend-it).

I strongly suggest getting bloxygen or xtend-it before you crack the seals again.

Edited by A-Mac

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