ethan3

Senko Molds?

12 posts in this topic

I have been pouring my own baits for a while now, but am pretty inexperienced. I would like to get some 4 and 5 inch senko molds, however I don't have the money to spend 100 dollars per mold. I was wondering if the molds on jannsnetcraft are any good? Also, the injector on there is only 10 bucks. Does it work ok or not? Any suggestions/info would be great.

Thanks all

http://www.jannsnetc...http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plastic-lure-molds/440220.aspx

http://www.jannsnetc...http://www.jannsnetcraft.com/soft-plastic-lure-molds/044020600000.aspx

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Do it the right way, you can get a 4 cav. alum. mold for about 60.00, save and get it right the first time.

Edited by earthworm77

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Yep all reports are that those plastic molds and injector are crap and dangerous, do a search I'm sure you'll find plenty on them.

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That injector from Janns is junk. It's going to get someone badly hurt oneday. Do yourself a favor and save a little money up and buy a nice aluminum injector from bearsbaits.com , basstackle.com or some place like that. Believe me its well worth it. I bought a Janns injector when I started out and it broke on the first day, and the little black clips that hold the molds together break real easy also. Just my 2 cents though. But if you do decide to go with Janns I got some molds I'll sell you...lol.

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Thanks all. I definately wont buy that crap from netcraft. If you have molds for sale that are actually good, email me. I am interested. Also, I need an injector.

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You do not need to spend money on an Aluminum mold. A Plaster of paris 2 piece mold made correctly will do the job and last a long time. Here are a few points;

Mix the PoP slowly and make sure it is quite runny - this will aid getting rid of bubbles

Puor your bottom half into a greased plastic container - tap this for a few minutes to agitate bubbles out

Add your Senko's to copy, along with pouring channels (cut up senko), and mold guides (i use some small balls like ping pong balls)

Allow to cure for a day or 2

Remove the mold guides

Grease thoroughly with vasaline

Pour the top half

Wait 2 days and remove the mold from the plastic container and split it

Carefully hollow out the pouring channels if they need it and widen them at the top.

Leave the 2 halves to dry for at least 4 or 5 days

Make up some 2 part epoxy glue in a small jar and thin it down with Acetone.

Apply this to the 2 halves of the mold, at least 3 times.

This will give you a very shiny surface to your bait, the mold will now be rock hard and shiny like china and very durable. I made a 4 senko mold like this over 1 year ago and it is still going strong. I knocked out over 100 Senkos with this mold last week in about 3 hours work.

You can buy a lot of plastic with $100!

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eathan3-

Do it right or don't do it @ all! POP may be great since they're dirt cheap BUT- drop one on the floor and you have a 1,000 piece puzzle. Nothing beats a precision,2 piece CNC aluminum mold-injection or hand pour.

Buy you baits from a quality manufacturer and you'll end up saving money in the long run

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Drop an POP mold on the floor and you can make another one for pennys!

If you don't drop it on the floor it will last for ages. I would guess my current Senko POP mold has knocked out around 500 baits so far - no sign of wear.

As far as doing it right - My homemade Senkos look identical to the real thing, sink as well as the real thing and catch as many fish as the real thing.

I am in the process of making a number of other molds for Worms, craws ect. If I were to use Aluminum each time I could end up spending upwards of $500! - That is a S%*t load of plastic.

Unless you are staring a commercial operation, stick to POP.

Just MHO.

Edited by gordon

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There is no doubt that PoP makes a good mold. This is one of those rare occasions when the old phrase, ”you get what you pay for”, does not apply. Yes, if you drop it, the mold is trashed. But why would you only make one mold, I would have made at the very least, ten. If you are going to be a commercial bait producer, yes, aluminium molds are the way to go.

This thread is about injection molds. The only problem with PoP for an injection mold, is chipping and damage where the injector is inserted. So, if I was to make an injection mold from PoP, I would solve this problem by fitting a reinforcing insert. The chances of being able to buy such an item in the stores already made, is probably remote. My solution would be to cast my own inserts from polyester resin (fiberglass resin) or bondo or a mixture of both.

Dave

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Better yet Dave, use your own idea like I did for the port, use an RTV adapter. The RTV takes the brunt of the injector on the one side but is easy on the pop mold port.

On the reinforcement of pop molds, use old dryer sheets. I pour the mold part of the way full, lay a dryer sheet in the pop, fill the rest of the way and then add the baits I am using to mold. Repeat this process for the other side. Your mold will be extremely hard and you may chip small outside parts but the mold will not break easy at all. I have propped plenty of mine on a cement garage floor with little to no damage. Durham's water putty will make a tough mold as well. More durable than pop but slightly tougher (not much though) to work with.

I love my pop molds and make baits that I give to friends and sell alike. You cannot tell the difference between a bait made in a pop mold vs aluminum if the molds are made and sealed properly.

Jim

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Better yet Dave, use your own idea like I did for the port, use an RTV adapter.

Forgot about that one Jim, even better, shock absorbent and a good seal.

Dave

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