xix coleman xix

Here Are My Questions. Can I Have Some Answers?

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So im thinking about buying a wooden popper from jannsnetcraft.com And a block of basswood for making my first cranks. I'm a complete noob when it comes to custom lure making so bear with me haha.

How do i seal the lures before painting? Another guy told me rub super glue on it with my fingers, but i have used super glue and touched it with my finger and it pulled some skin off, unless he is talking about some other glue?

I was gonna use stainless steel wire for the hangers and line tie but, what gauge wire should i use to make them? 20? 21?

Split ring for a crankbait? I was thinking size 3?

Once sealed, do i need to put primer on it or can i just paint?

I dont have an airbrush but i was looking at buy some spray paint. Anybody got some pictures of lures done with spray paint? I don't have enough money to buy and airbrush and a compressor.

Much appreciated!

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I don't know much about building cranks from scratch but I do know you never want to get super glue all over your fingers. :yay:

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I use propionate pellets dissolved in thinners for sealing. It takes at least six dips, but it dries fast and very easy. Another very good method is D2T epoxy, thinned with denatured alcohol. Some members do use the CA glue, but not so sure about using your bare fingers for the application. I hate getting that stuff on my skin.

Sealing the wood serves a couple of purposes: provides a water proof barrier, so if the top coat is pierced, the body will not become water logged and the lure can still be fished. Secondly, the sealing process raises the grain. This can then be sanded smooth and a second coat of seal applied. This will result is a superior paint job, with no wood grain being visible.

Once cured, a light scuffing and the bait is ready to paint. The primer is to provide a good ‘key’ for paint adhesion and to provide a suitable base color to help your chosen paint scheme. Personally, I find that a properly prepared seal coat is sufficient to support the paint and I move ahead with the lightest color of my scheme. Others may have contrasting views on this one.

My wire is 0.035” diameter soft stainless steel, 19 gauge AWG is 0.036”, essentially the same. Those that fish for larger species generally use something a bit beefier, but the pole will snap before the 19AWG does. 20AWG should still be OK but 21 (0.028”) is getting a bit light. The problem is that the thinner wire tow eye will keep getting bent over and throwing the lure out of tune.

My split rings are 0.288” o/d with a wire thickness of 0.036”, sorry, do not know the official size number, but they look right.

Dave

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hey there i am new also i got a book and it said do a poxy on it after you sanded your piece then after that dries do another light sanding on it . i did that and it worked great , i am hand painting my pieces i cant afford a airbrush either , after i paint my piece i mix the poxy again and brush it on let dry add hardware thats it has a great finish . I seen on here alot talk about using deft sealer that you can buy at your local lowes i was going to try that also. good luck i am learning still myself.

Christina

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Here's the simplest way I know to make a durable crankbait.

Wipe a coat of Devcon Two Ton epoxy thinned with a little denatured alcohol on the raw wood. This waterproofs it and stops the grain from rising when hit with paint. Lightly sand it smooth after it cures. If you sand down to raw wood again anywhere, apply another coat of Devcon. You want a smooth waterproof surface to paint.

No "primer". Shoot a white paint basecoat, then the colors. If you use aerosol paint, let it dry at least 24 hrs to get rid of the solvents.

Brush on a topcoat of straight unthinned Devcon Two Ton. Rotate it. You can fish it after 24 hrs.

You need to rotate the lure, or at least switch it head/tail every little while for the first hour that Devcon is curing. Using the Devcon for both under and topcoating keeps things simple. I use Size 2 split rings on 95% of my crankbaits.

Edited by BobP
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The trick is not to press your finger to the bait when rubbing on super glue. I've done every bait I've made this way and have yet to loose any skin. I personally like to put a coat of epoxy over the super glue to give a smooth surface for painting but it's not a requirment. Each builder has their own methods of sealing, painting, and clear coating. If you don't like the method then figure out a method that works for you.

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I kinda do what Bob does.. only I dont thin out my epoxy.. never tried that before. Cool trick Bob.

I just coat bait with epoxy...wait 24 hours.. Sand it after it raises the grain of the wood.. Then coat it again.

Scuff it

Prime it

Bondo Glaze it

Scuff it again.

Prime it.. now it should be smooth as baby's face.

Lure Professor has told me about using super glue before but I didnt want to get that stuff on my fingers... I dont really like the taste of it and prefer the taste of epoxy a whole lot better.

Edited by The_Rookie

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When spreading Super Glue onto your lure, place your finger in to a Ziplock sandwich bag. The glue spreads easier and you don't wind up getting the glue on your finger.

Gene

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When spreading Super Glue onto your lure, place your finger in to a Ziplock sandwich bag. The glue spreads easier and you don't wind up getting the glue on your finger.

Lots of good suggestions posted... I'll just post one additional tip.

For the sealer in place of propionate you can use SOLO clear cups. Its been awhile since I made the concoction, but it worked just as easily and nearly as efficient as the propionate. Ugh, I wish I remembered exactly what I did. I know that I chopped up like 7 or 8 clear cups into smaller pieces and put them in a seal-able jar with ~ 8oz of either denatured alcohol or acetone. If I remember right, I think the acetone definitely worked, but the DA worked too... just without the noxious fumes.

If the cups don't start to dissolve after a day with DA, try again only with acetone... if they still don't dissolve, try a different cup brand. I know I tried a few brands, but I'm pretty sure the Solo was the one that worked. Dip your bait as much as you want to get the desired level of smoothness (I think I dipped like 8 times). I normally will make the mixture as thick as warm syrup to try and reduce the amount of dips (just add more cups). Its cheap, it works, and the products are available a hardware and grocery store. So its worth playing with (especially if your impatient like me) Sorry for the sketchy info... spent a few hours painting today :blink:

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After sanding starting with 80 grit, working my way down to 180, some times 400 grit.I use mimwax hardner and sealer to seal the lure for testing. Three or four nice brush coates will do it. The sealer dries quickly. After testing, if needed, another coat can be added after a ruff up with a light sand paper. If that's not needed, ruff up and paint the primer/sealer of your choice, if airbrushing. If not any primer will do.

I use the higher grit count in 2" width or 1" straps. I buff the lure like I was buffing a shoe. This makes the round parts of the lure just that round, smooth and even.

I'm going to throw this out there about primers/sealers. When airbrushing the base color makes a difference of shades of the colors.

As far as wire, I agree with Dave on the wire size. I use Tig electrodes, but I don't recommend it to some one just starting out. I agree with Bobp about paint dry time. I also agree with him on about split ring size. I don't use 3 or 3 heavy except for large fish species.

You both have got a lot of info. Pick the right way for you. All of these techniques are proven and works. Enjoy this hobby and take your time getting started.

Use the search box at the top of the page. It's a encyclopedia of info.

Good luck to you both and catch a fish with your first bait. You will be hooked just like the fish. :)

Dale

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As a sealer I use a 50/50 mix of clear polyurethane And mineral spirits that I dip for 10 minutes and let flash off for an hour then I base coat with rust oleum paint and let dry for 24 hrs then airbrush as desired, the thinned mixture soaked into the wood grain really we'll when I cut a test piece in half therefore making a good water sealer. So many good options just use what is easily available and works for you , good luck. David J

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My normal method is Envirotech Epoxy thinned with a couple drops of denatured alcohol for sealing. After paint I use at least two coats of the E-Tex without thinning. 

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 Another guy told me rub super glue on it with my fingers, but i have used super glue and touched it with my finger and it pulled some skin off, unless he is talking about some other glue?

 

I sometimes use glue on a balsa blank....I keep the fingers from the used latex gloves I use when using air brush to place over my finger to spread the glue when I use it...I just snip em off with scissors to re purpose them when using glue...I have also used walmart sacks laying around as well by just placing my who hand inside them like a puppet...the glue will run itself over the balsa with the help of gravity and if its thin glue like you want some will soak...give it a rub or two as you go then I nose hang them to dry using an "S" shaped piece of wire...

 

I know its a no brainer...but dont breathe or let fumes in your eyes.

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Hobby stores have thin superglue that you can brush on. This is what I use. I usually do multiple coats but not sure it's needed

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When spreading Super Glue onto your lure, place your finger in to a Ziplock sandwich bag. The glue spreads easier and you don't wind up getting the glue on your finger.

Gene

Any reason we can't use a cheap throwaway brush to spread it? 1/30th of 99 cents seems like a small price to pay. Also for Newbies - watch those superglue fumes. use a booth or fan to direct them away from you. They form sharp crystals in your lungs - very bad.

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So im thinking about buying a wooden popper from jannsnetcraft.com And a block of basswood for making my first cranks. I'm a complete noob when it comes to custom lure making so bear with me haha.

How do i seal the lures before painting? Another guy told me rub super glue on it with my fingers, but i have used super glue and touched it with my finger and it pulled some skin off, unless he is talking about some other glue?

I was gonna use stainless steel wire for the hangers and line tie but, what gauge wire should i use to make them? 20? 21?

Split ring for a crankbait? I was thinking size 3?

Once sealed, do i need to put primer on it or can i just paint?

I dont have an airbrush but i was looking at buy some spray paint. Anybody got some pictures of lures done with spray paint? I don't have enough money to buy and airbrush and a compressor.

Much appreciated!

Harbor freight sells 1lb spools of .041 stainless for around $9. Watch the you tube video 

 

So im thinking about buying a wooden popper from jannsnetcraft.com And a block of basswood for making my first cranks. I'm a complete noob when it comes to custom lure making so bear with me haha.

How do i seal the lures before painting? Another guy told me rub super glue on it with my fingers, but i have used super glue and touched it with my finger and it pulled some skin off, unless he is talking about some other glue?

I was gonna use stainless steel wire for the hangers and line tie but, what gauge wire should i use to make them? 20? 21?

Split ring for a crankbait? I was thinking size 3?

Once sealed, do i need to put primer on it or can i just paint?

I dont have an airbrush but i was looking at buy some spray paint. Anybody got some pictures of lures done with spray paint? I don't have enough money to buy and airbrush and a compressor.

Much appreciated!

Harbor freight sells .041 stainless wire 1lb spool for around $9 At least one guy on this site uses it. Watch his video... very educational. Hope the link works

BTW welcome to TU!

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hey there i am new also i got a book and it said do a poxy on it after you sanded your piece then after that dries do another light sanding on it . i did that and it worked great , i am hand painting my pieces i cant afford a airbrush either , after i paint my piece i mix the poxy again and brush it on let dry add hardware thats it has a great finish . I seen on here alot talk about using deft sealer that you can buy at your local lowes i was going to try that also. good luck i am learning still myself.

Christina

Welcome to TU. Good to see a good looking profile pic. Check out mohawkman's! I'm not very photogenic myself - so I used one of my lures. I bought my airbrush (badger 150) along with a compressor and some paint for $90. It is by no means top of the line, But it is sooo much better than spray cans. And the paint (createx and com art) can be heat set in seconds rather than 24 hours for laquer. Watch for deals on craigslist. Lots of suggestion on this site on DIY projects like spray booths, lure turners, etc. Check out the homebrew tools forum.

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You guys do realize this post is almost 6 years old don't you? And Chuck, I hate to tell you that lurechica hasn't been logged in since September of 2010.

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Way to funny, I guess we all need to look more closely at dates , but hey it was in the new content, but it is a good thread even if we are having a bit of a time delay(6 yrs) haha  :unsure:  :unsure:  :unsure:                

 

 

David J

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Way to funny, I guess we all need to look more closely at dates , but hey it was in the new content, but it is a good thread even if we are having a bit of a time delay(6 yrs) haha  :unsure:  :unsure:  :unsure:                

 

 

David J

I watch for  recent posts. Looks like someone else brought it up from the dead and I gave it a face lift. Lazzarus, buddy, come on out!

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The profile pic still looks better than mohawkman's

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Yes, an old thread. But I will add, that anyone worried about applying CA glue with the bare finger, it will wipe off easily with acetone, so no big deal. A cheap brush might work, but I would be nervous about the bristles sticking. Not a huge problem if you have a sharp blade ready.

 

Dave

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I agree with Dave. All my wood baits get a coat of thin super glue and as long as I keep my finger moving it doesn't stick. Any residue left on the finger gets a quick plunge in acetone and is wiped off. If any dried glue remains I rub the fingertip on a piece of 120 grit sandpaper.

 

Ben

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Oh well, maybe a old thread but some good advise. Live and learn.

Lol

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I'll repeat what others have already said.  The fumes from super glue are NASTY!  You need a fan blowing across your work area to keep them from reaching your nose and eyes.  I try to use it outside whenever possible, and it is still nasty!

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