CedarLakeMusky

Applying Etex

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Just bought some Etex and I am using it for my first time. Was wondering if anybody has some tips or tricks for applying it on wood lures.

Thanks

CLM

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Measure exact,mix well (atleast 2 minutes)and apply with a brush. Turn on a drying wheel for 8 or so hours. Use the search engine and youll find TONS of info. This topic has because discussed countless times! good luck! Rick

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Mixing Etex properly is really important.

Mix the two parts thoroughly, but try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum.

I use solo cups (from the salsa I get from my local Mexican restaurant) and a bare paper clip bent with a 90 degree tag end for my mixing, and a hair dryer to help bring any bubbles to the top so they will burst. I roll the epoxy around on the walls of the solo cup to get the bubbles to pop.

Then I let it sit for ten minutes, to be sure all the bubbles are gone, and that both parts have truly blended into one.

Be sure you get all the epoxy that's in the corners and hollows blended in well, or you'll have soft spots that won't set up.

It isn't really that hard to mix it well. Just take your time and be thorough.

I use the Flexcoat epoxy syringes to measure the two parts exactly. The tips of the syringes are tapered slightly, so you can drill a hole in the cap of each bottle, and push the syringe in so it's a tight fit. Then tip it over and load the syringe with as much as you need, and tip the bottle back upright before you take the syringe out. Make sure you don't wind up with air bubbles in the syringes, or it will throw the mix proportions off.

I leave the syringes in the tops of the bottles, and the epoxy doesn't go bad.

The syringes are cheap.

Look at them here:

http://www.fishingtackleunlimited.com/p/FTU/c-rod-building-accs/FC-S.html

Wear latex disposable gloves, to keep the epoxy off your hands, and your hands off the lure. Finger print oil will make the epoxy pull away and fish eye.

Mix only as much as you think you'll use. If you don't mix enough, it's easy with the syringes to mix up a little more, and it will blend into the first batch fine.

Brush it on in thin coats with a soft brush. Too thick a coat will sag.

Recoat after 12 hours, or whenever the epoxy has set. Three coats total. You can apply the second coat directly over the first, with no additional prep. It is meant to bond to itself.

Be sure and soften any sharp edges. Epoxy has enough surface tension that it will pull away from a sharp edge.

Have a small dish of denatured alcohol handy. Wipe off the excess epoxy from the brush on a paper towel when you're done, and then wash it in the alcohol several times until it's clean. That way you can use the same brush over and over again.

Like RickJames said, turn it for at least 8 hours. I usually coat last thing, and turn all night. Then I put another coat on the next morning, and let it turn all day. I put the third coat on last thing that night, and it's ready to fish the next day.

Of course, it does cure out harder over the next 24 hours, so waiting another day is always a good thing.

Good luck. It is a great top coat.

Edited by mark poulson

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Mixing Etex properly is really important.

Mix the two parts thoroughly, but try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum.

I use solo cups (from the salsa I get from my local Mexican restaurant) and a bare paper clip bent with a 90 degree tag end for my mixing, and a hair dryer to help bring any bubbles to the top so they will burst. I roll the epoxy around on the walls of the solo cup to get the bubbles to pop.

Then I let it sit for ten minutes, to be sure all the bubbles are gone, and that both parts have truly blended into one.

Be sure you get all the epoxy that's in the corners and hollows blended in well, or you'll have soft spots that won't set up.

It isn't really that hard to mix it well. Just take your time and be thorough.

I use the Flexcoat epoxy syringes to measure the two parts exactly. The tips of the syringes are tapered slightly, so you can drill a hole in the cap of each bottle, and push the syringe in so it's a tight fit. Then tip it over and load the syringe with as much as you need, and tip the bottle back upright before you take the syringe out. Make sure you don't wind up with air bubbles in the syringes, or it will throw the mix proportions off.

I leave the syringes in the tops of the bottles, and the epoxy doesn't go bad.

The syringes are cheap.

Look at them here:

http://www.fishingtackleunlimited.com/p/FTU/c-rod-building-accs/FC-S.html

Wear latex disposable gloves, to keep the epoxy off your hands, and your hands off the lure. Finger print oil will make the epoxy pull away and fish eye.

Mix only as much as you think you'll use. If you don't mix enough, it's easy with the syringes to mix up a little more, and it will blend into the first batch fine.

Brush it on in thin coats with a soft brush. Too thick a coat will sag.

Recoat after 12 hours, or whenever the epoxy has set. Three coats total. You can apply the second coat directly over the first, with no additional prep. It is meant to bond to itself.

Be sure and soften any sharp edges. Epoxy has enough surface tension that it will pull away from a sharp edge.

Have a small dish of denatured alcohol handy. Wipe off the excess epoxy from the brush on a paper towel when you're done, and then wash it in the alcohol several times until it's clean. That way you can use the same brush over and over again.

Like RickJames said, turn it for at least 8 hours. I usually coat last thing, and turn all night. Then I put another coat on the next morning, and let it turn all day. I put the third coat on last thing that night, and it's ready to fish the next day.

Of course, it does cure out harder over the next 24 hours, so waiting another day is always a good thing.

Good luck. It is a great top coat.

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I would first recommend that you read all of the post about Etex, there is a world of knowledge here and you will probably find most of your answers. When it comes to mixing; accuracy is super important as well as mixing. I mix about two to four minutes to make sure both of the liquids are blended 100%. If they arn't the coating will not dry and remain sticky. I then blow warm air over the mixing cup to help remove the small bubbles. I use a small paint bruch to apply the coating taking time to put on a smooth coat. I have found that the drug stores located at many of the hospitals have small plastic mixing cups that have very accurate measurements stamped on the sides and that is what I use for measuring the liquid. The cups I use have increments of 1/2 teaspoon so you can get a very accuratement measuurement for both of the bottles. I use one cup and fill from one bottle to the measurement that I want and then pour the other liquid in the same cup to complete the measurement. The cups are very cheap and I usually buy 100 of them at a time. You will need a turning wheel when you use the etex. You can find all the info you need about the wheel on this site.

Rotorhead

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I could be wrong, but it seems like I read somewhere that it's better to use a metal rod to mix Etex with. I took a 1/8" welding rod and bent a loop in the end and then cut it to the length I wanted. I also mix mine for at least 2 minutes. After mixing I place it in the microwave (750 watt microwave) and nuke it for 3 to 4 seconds. Any more and it will get too hot and start to set up before you can brush it on. Microwaving it for 3 to 4 seconds seems to get it just warm enough to lower the viscosity and allow the bubbles to rise and pop easier.

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Two things.

1. Invest in an automatic epoxy mixer. They are about $25 and are worth their weight in gold. Hardly any bubbles! Pretty sure Acid Rod has them.

2. Be careful in applying heat to pop bubbles in Etex. It works well if you apply thin coats. Beware if you've applied a heavy coat (not recommended anyway) because you will end up with a runny mess. Blowing through a straw will also pop bubbles well.

jeremy

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When I apply etex I use a small handheld butane torch, can be bought numerous places, I think mine came from oreilly. What it does is make it a little warm and has enough air to pop any bubbles. I apply it, get it on the Turner, get the small torch and just wave it over it about 3 or 4 inches from the lure.works wonders for me.I think it actually says in the instructions on etex If applying it to a table, to use a handeld propane torch to pop any bubbles.so that's my two cents. Hope it helps!

Andy

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I have really become a fan of applying etex with your finger wearing a rubber or latex glove.

I did a few this past weekend, and I have a practically flawless bubble free finish. Best results

I have had yet. To mix, I measure about 1 cc of each (they say you should mix more but this works for me)

with syringes and mix in a rod builder epoxy cup. I have a home made epoxy mixer I made from a microwave

motor, but I usually just rotate the cup in my hands at a moderate speed making sure to get it spread thin throughout the

cup to aid in mixing. I also put a 1/4" ball bearing or two in the cup. When all done I clean those with denatured alcohol and use them over and over. Mix that way for about 4 minutes or until it is

super clear again, You will see it cloud up and then become clear. I usually end up bubble free or just 1 bubble in it at that point. I then put the lure on my spinner and apply the etex to it. I then spin at 15 rpm for about 4 hours.

Good luck.

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Thanks for all the info. Has anyone ever layered two different epoxies? For example devcon two ton and then etex over that. Would this make a better wood lure? Jwags do you make musky lures? If you do how many coats of etex do you use?

Thanks

CLM

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I mix in the bottom of a spray paint can, leave the top on the can and flip it over, it is a perfect cup for mixing and when done wipe out the excess wth a paper towel then put a couple drops of acetone then clean out with a paper towel and it's ready for the next time. On the etex bottles, go to walmart into the medicine area find the childrens dispensing kit it has a rubber stopper that has lipped graduating diameters so it will fit any size bottle. The stopper has a hole in it the kit also has a plastic syringe in 1cc graduating to 10cc's. Buy 2 of these kits one for each bottle of etex. I take a black sharpie and mark one of the syringes with it and only use it for the hardener. No waste no mess and very efficient. I apply etex everyday on hundreds of baits a week. After spreading the etex on you bait before putting on your turner just huff on the bait'like you would fog a mirror with your breath' and watch the bubbles disappear. Hope the helps

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