for some of my baits, i have been using a 4:1 mix ratio automotive clear coat i got from a local car repair center. it seems to work alright but at times will peel off the bait after excessive use. i normally coat 2-3 times over. i can get it for free so id like to keep using it and it works better for spraying some of my jointed swimbaits once put together. how does this type of clear compare to some of the other types you guys use?
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20 replies to this topic
#2
Advanced Member
Posted 03 September 2010 - 12:37 AM
I don't use it but a friend uses Matrix MS-42, a premium high solids 2:1 mix clearcoat. If you are shooting catalyzed auto clearcoats, you MUST use the proper safety equipment. The hardener contains isocyanates and the clearcoat organic solvents - both of which are poisonous. There's a reason you see auto painters in Tyvek body suits with full face masks and oxygen supply. Can't comment on the continued performance of MS-42 but it looks darned nice.
#3
Member
Posted 03 September 2010 - 04:26 AM
thirtyacre, what brand of clear is peeling? Is it called Finish 1? Thanks.
#4
Member
Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:48 AM
Dupont chroma clear works great if you can stand the price! Also I have heard of painters using bulldog adhesion promoter.
#5
Member Posted 03 September 2010 - 12:58 PM
i use bulldog adhesion as a base coat on clear lures for ghosting.
i use the house of kolors auto clear, which is a 2:1 + reducer, i have to reduce by 2-3 parts to shoot it through the airbrush. i noticed a night and day diff vs the e-tex that i used to use. the durability imo is about a 8.5/10. when i tested each style lure. the lipless cranks obviously got beat up the most. but i also threw it for 2-3 hours continuous for 3 days straight. im guessing about 1200+ casts, my arms were dead  the only drawback is it doesnt seal in the 3d eyes like an epoxy would. #6
Member
Posted 03 September 2010 - 08:32 PM
There is some info in thread below which sounds similar to issues you are having,
http://www.tackleund...__1#entry144924 Definately agree with pizz on the eye's, you will need something else to hold on the eye's in my experience. No issues with the Dupont product for me thus far, however, it is early day's. The bass season has just opened though!!!!! Hope this helps Angus #7
New Member
Posted 03 September 2010 - 10:01 PM
for some of my baits, i have been using a 4:1 mix ratio automotive clear coat i got from a local car repair center. it seems to work alright but at times will peel off the bait after excessive use. i normally coat 2-3 times over. i can get it for free so id like to keep using it and it works better for spraying some of my jointed swimbaits once put together. how does this type of clear compare to some of the other types you guys use? You might want to try a "Flexible Additive" when you use an automotive clear coat. It's what used when clear coating a bumper to deter rock chips,bugs,etc from chipping the clear. Gives the clear a slight spongy feel,nothing really noticeable.Not sure what brand you use but the big 3 have it Sikkens,PPG and Dupont. As far as filling eye gaps on baits with clear ,spray one light coat let it tack then spray a second coat and let dry.Come back after curing and scuff lightly with a grey scotchbrite pad and shoot two more coats this time with the flexible additive and all gaps around press on eyes will be filled. Hope this helps. #8
Member
Posted 04 September 2010 - 01:28 PM
this is the clearcoat i am using... Western automotive finishes refiners select rs 6030 with rs 9812 hardener. This hardener is rated "medium". And i was under the influence that automative clears had a flex additive added already...?
#9
Member
Posted 04 September 2010 - 02:50 PM
I have began dipping my baits in Automotive Clear. I wait until I have at least 20 cranks ready for clear. Then I dip them each 3 times, waiting 10 minutes in between each dip. The final strength is incredible compared to spraying it through an airbrush.
#10
New Member
Posted 04 September 2010 - 08:47 PM
this is the clearcoat i am using... Western automotive finishes refiners select rs 6030 with rs 9812 hardener. This hardener is rated "medium". And i was under the influence that automative clears had a flex additive added already...? Clear coat has some flex but next time you mix some let a little dry in the bottom of you mixing cup.Take out the cured clear and roll it around in your hand,it will crumble to pieces.If you add a Flex additive you can roll the stuff in a tight ball with no damage.The local paint jobber in my area(im an automotive painter) showed me this years ago,its pretty impressive.Your baits wont be bullet proof but I bang mine against the rip rap here at Smith Mountain lake and they take a pounding. #11
Member
Posted 05 September 2010 - 01:11 PM
Clear coat has some flex but next time you mix some let a little dry in the bottom of you mixing cup.Take out the cured clear and roll it around in your hand,it will crumble to pieces.If you add a Flex additive you can roll the stuff in a tight ball with no damage.The local paint jobber in my area(im an automotive painter) showed me this years ago,its pretty impressive.Your baits wont be bullet proof but I bang mine against the rip rap here at Smith Mountain lake and they take a pounding. what type of flex additive do you recommend? and where can a guy get it? #12
New Member
Posted 05 September 2010 - 03:52 PM
what type of flex additive do you recommend? and where can a guy get it? Whomever deals auto paint in your area.If you know someone in the auto collision business.I dont have much experience with western auto clear. I use PPG and have sprayed DuPont ,Sikkens in the past and know they carry it. It might be on the expensive side to switch clears.I think you posted that you get it for free.Maybe someone could let you try a little first. #13
Advanced Member
Posted 06 September 2010 - 10:53 AM
Whomever deals auto paint in your area.If you know someone in the auto collision business.I dont have much experience with western auto clear. I use PPG and have sprayed DuPont ,Sikkens in the past and know they carry it. It might be on the expensive side to switch clears.I think you posted that you get it for free.Maybe someone could let you try a little first. Do automobile clears have to be IR set, like the paints they use for cars? #14
New Member
Posted 06 September 2010 - 02:09 PM
Do automobile clears have to be IR set, like the paints they use for cars? No,it will speed curing time but it dries either way. #15
New Member
Posted 06 September 2010 - 02:31 PM
No,it will speed curing time but it dries either way. Many of the big auto paint companies sell different grade clears.PPG has Omni,Sikkens has U-Tech DuPont has Transtar i think. Most of the lower grade clears are much less expensive than the top tier products. A gallon of PPG/Nexa Clear coat $450 with catalyst.Omni AU clear with catalyst $113.00 great looking stuff.Components although not warrantied are interchangeable ( I mad scientist this stuff all the time on small parts). Most of the lower end clears are air dried usually 2-3 hours depending on humidity,temp and airflow.There are many different components from flex agents to accelerators (speeds dry times) retarder(slows it) fisheye eliminator,adhesion promoter.The list goes on and on. #16
Advanced Member
Posted 06 September 2010 - 05:42 PM
Many of the big auto paint companies sell different grade clears.PPG has Omni,Sikkens has U-Tech DuPont has Transtar i think. Most of the lower grade clears are much less expensive than the top tier products. A gallon of PPG/Nexa Clear coat $450 with catalyst.Omni AU clear with catalyst $113.00 great looking stuff.Components although not warrantied are interchangeable ( I mad scientist this stuff all the time on small parts). Most of the lower end clears are air dried usually 2-3 hours depending on humidity,temp and airflow.There are many different components from flex agents to accelerators (speeds dry times) retarder(slows it) fisheye eliminator,adhesion promoter.The list goes on and on. Man, I'm glad I don't have to make bullet proof lures. That finish sounds way too involved. I just want dip and go. Lure making is fun, painting is fun, fishing is fun, top coating is a pain in the rear. #17
New Member
Posted 06 September 2010 - 06:41 PM
Man, I'm glad I don't have to make bullet proof lures. That finish sounds way too involved. I just want dip and go. Lure making is fun, painting is fun, fishing is fun, top coating is a pain in the rear. lol,your right. Like anything i guess it can be as simple or complex as you make it.Mine are not bullet proof either but it stinks when you spend so much time on a bait to see the finish fall apart:( #18
Advanced Member
Posted 07 September 2010 - 09:45 AM
lol,your right. Like anything i guess it can be as simple or complex as you make it.Mine are not bullet proof either but it stinks when you spend so much time on a bait to see the finish fall apart:( That's why I switched to PVC decking for my lures. No matter how much damage the top coat gets, the lure is totally waterproof. I got tired of trying to find a sealer that would protect my wooden jointed swimbaits. I had resigned myself to having to repaint often, and then I found the PVC, thanks to JR Hopkins. 
#19
Member
Posted 25 November 2010 - 11:03 AM
I just used the finish one on some swimbaits, it went on great and looks great. The bad part is that it never hardened. the company says it will not set up over uncatalyzed paint. It sounded like Dictator of painters has some experience with finish 1. any Ideas?
#20
Advanced Member
Posted 08 December 2010 - 03:28 PM
If I may be permitted, I'm gonna toss my two cents worth in here.....There seems to be 2 schools of thought when it comes to flex additives.....One side claims the flex agent makes paint its added to, flexible from now on.....the other side say's "No, thats not the case"....They claim the additive only keeps the paint flexible for a short period of time which allows the automotive body guys to reassemble the "flexible" body parts (usually bumpers) without worry of the paint cracking during installation....once its fully cured they claim the paint is no longer any more flexible then paint used without a flex agent.....Some even go to claim that, once the flex agent has fully cured that the paint is actually more brittle.
Personally, I dunno...Your guess is as good as mine.....I've painted with it and without and haven't had any issues, but I don't use it for its intended purpose (painting car bumpers)....I paint motorcycles....I've used it on plastic fenders only....For what I do, I can see no difference.....You can flex a fender with or with it, and neither seems to cause any ill effects, so I can't say if the stuff works or not...lol...So for me it just becomes an added expense. I know of guys using it when painting plastic 4 wheeler bodies, but from what I hear nothing keeps the paint from cracking on those things, and most shops will refuse to paint them..... I do like using Bulldog adhesion promoter when painting plastics, but thats about all I use it for. In the "For what its worth" dept.....I have a thin sheet of aluminum that I Bulldogged,painted, airbrushed, and clearcoated using cheap automotive urethanes about 12 years ago....I painted it as a practice item but the aluminum was so thin it got bent easy and wasn't worth using as a display piece....its probably a little thicker then the average beer can aluminum....its actually a small offset printing plate.....The point I want to share is this....To this day, I use it to show clients how flexible paint really is....I can take that 12X18" sheet and roll it up to about the size of the cardboard spool thats inside a roll of paper towels, or maybe a bit smaller, and nothing happens!....its been bent, creased and straightened in several places and the paint has never cracked, turned loose, or shown any signs of failure.......Thats just using some Bulldog,and some el-cheapo automotive paint products......I don't know about you guys, but that has always said alot to me about these products. |
