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Power Pro Braided Line

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Ok, so I'm probably the last guy in the world left that doesn't use braided line. Now I bought some to try it out. I am looking for all suggestions good and bad on this. Any and all tips, tricks and ideas welcome. I bought 20lb test green line with the diameter of 6 lb. It will be put on a spinning reel first and then tried on a bait caster after that if I like it. it will be use mainly for casting a jig and pig in semi-weedy areas. So here are some of my questions to you guys. #1 Does the line ever wear out, or get knicked up from dragging on the bottom. #2 Does the line wear grooves in your rod guides especially at the tip top. When do you replace your line and how do you know when to replace it...............Thanks to all who reply.

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Ok, so I'm probably the last guy in the world left that doesn't use braided line. Now I bought some to try it out. I am looking for all suggestions good and bad on this. Any and all tips, tricks and ideas welcome. I bought 20lb test green line with the diameter of 6 lb. It will be put on a spinning reel first and then tried on a bait caster after that if I like it. it will be use mainly for casting a jig and pig in semi-weedy areas. So here are some of my questions to you guys. #1 Does the line ever wear out, or get knicked up from dragging on the bottom. #2 Does the line wear grooves in your rod guides especially at the tip top. When do you replace your line and how do you know when to replace it...............Thanks to all who reply.

Cadman,braided line last for a very long time,the line will get a little fuzzy looking and discolored after a while. But even when it does, it is still very strong.As far as making grooves in your rod guides and tips,I haven't had that problem.I think that many of the newer rods are made to handle the braided line,because of it's poularity.

It can be a pain to cut sometimes, if you get caught with out a good pair of scissors,or a very sharp knife. They make a new line cutter that heats up and cuts it slick as a whissle. I think it runs off of batteries. I have cut off some of my braid from time to time,but only when it looks worn really bad,but even then it is very tough. The hardest thing for me to get used to is the no give in the line,you might want to go to a little more limber rod,I was flipping the little fish over the boat till I got used to it.

I'm sure it wears out like any thing else,but it will last several times longer than any other line Iv'e ever used.

Hope this helps a little,I'm sure there will be a lot of diferent opinions,but this is my 2 cents.

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Power Pro is the braided line I picked above several others. And I've tried quite a few of them. Braid has it's pro's and cons just like anything else, but it definitely has it's place in a fisherman's arsenal.

Now to try and answer a few of your questions with one note. I've never fished it on a spinning reel so I can't speak to how it acts in that application.

#1 Yes, it does wear out. If it gets nicked it will be fairly easy to see. Where it's nicked it will have a fuzzy appearance like you would see in a piece of torn cloth where the fibers have frayed. When I thought my braid was needing to be replaced I would swap ends with it. Take all the braid off and tie the used end to the reel and you've got fresh braid on the lure end.

#2 I've never noticed any wear in any of my rod guides due to the braided line. Most rod guides are built out of some pretty hard stuff. Aluminum oxide is a widely used material for rod guides and it is listed as a "9" on the Mohs hardness scale while diamonds are listed as a "10". I'm not saying it won't have some effect over time, but it's not something I would worry about.

#3 As far as replacing the line I've already mentioned swapping ends with it and I generally replace mine when both ends have become frayed or I've cut off and retied so many times the amount of line has become diminished to the point it's effecting casting distance or is just otherwise getting low on the spool.

In my opinion you won't find a better line for fishing in heavy grass or lily pads. It's the only line I know of that can cut it's way through lily pads or other aquatic vegetation.

One thing I used to do was keep a black magic marker handy to "paint" the line a foot or two up from the bait when it starts to loose it's factory color. The line will cut a small slit in the felt tip after a couple of uses and you can then just slide the line into the slit and work the marker up and down the line a time or two.

You will also need to keep in mind that braid has absolutely no stretch. I've never had it happen to me, but I've heard stories of people warping the spool in their reel due to having the drag locked down and a hard hook set. I have broken 60# test on a hard hook set on what I believe was a really good fish so it doesn't hurt to back off on the drag just a little.

You will also need a good, quality pair of scissors to cut it. There are several different brands of scissors that are made specifically to cut braid. I kept mine in a sheath on my belt for handy access.

Braid is not something that is going to take the place of all other lines, but it does have it's place. Give it a try and I think you'll like it.

Hope this helps,

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy

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@ cadman

Braid also requires different knots compared to monofilament to retain it's best possible knot strength .

Thus having a much smaller diameter than mono at same knot strength , you would need a lot more of braid to fill the spool of your regular spinning reel(unless obtaining a smaller reel) , ......in this case I use some cheap mono at first as a filler , finally about 150 metres of that expensive braid are fairly enough for most lure fishing conditions .

On low profile casting reels I most likely do not use mono filler , as I have them in sufficiently small sizes or spool on thicker braid for heavier pike lures , ........anyway , the braid tends to slip on the spool's core , so either put a stripe of textile tape around the spool's core first or , even better , tie and knot the braid onto the core and after tape it , .........these ways it won't slip .

On spinning reels this does not happen that much , because the line has it's 90° offset detour around the bail roller , .....and I have the mono filler pre-spooled , anyway !

Because of the near zero stretch of braid and it's high strength you most likely need to loosen the drag a bit more than you would do with mono line not to put too much tension on tackle and fish , ........when snagged up , do not pull with rod and reel but wind your line around a round wood dowel(branch , priest , etc.) for a few times , take care that the single windings would not come lay accross one another , otherwise they might cut through when you now pull on that dowel with two hands .

Some fish species are not that suited that much to be fished on with braid , or at least one has to take extra care not to tear out the hooks from their softer lips and jaws with the zero stretch of braid , so a well operated drag is essential , .........in particular I am extra cautious about our local perch .

Bird nests on casting reels are very nasty , in particular with braid , ......harder to pick apart again than with mono ,....... I prefer somehow plated braids like "Berkley Fireline" on my casting reels , as these are a bit more stiffish compared to non-plated lines , thus eventual bird's nests are easier to get rid of .

good luck , diemai :yay:

Edited by diemai

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the only thing I can add is that I use it on all my casting rods. I throw flukes, finesse jigs and tubes on the 20/6 and spinnerbaits and swimbaits with 65/16.

You can get the hi-vis yellow if you have trouble seeing the line and color the last 10-12' with a black marker and it turns a greenish tint that blends well in the water.

I use a palomar knot exclusively with braid.

I change my line yearly when I do the "complete breakdown" cleaning in the winter months. I'm sure it's overkill, but I feel better about it.

The spent line is cut up and put in a bird feeder in the spring. The bluebirds love it for nest building.

I had trouble with the 15/4 a few years back. I fished it all season, and had one of those rare days on the river in early fall where I could do no wrong with presentation. The line broke off 3 times in a row with really decent fish on. Since then, I only go as far down as 20/6...no problem since.

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Like everyone else said the stuff is great. One thing to keep in the back of your mind, Also like everyone else said it has no stretch. That being said I would disagree with the backing off on the drag. I do that for all of my mono's and did it out of habit. Big mistake on my part. I fish a lot of soft plastics and drape the line over my index finger for feeling those light bites. Well first bite tourney morning I set the hook on a heavy fish and the drag gave a little, Well that little it gave with the tension of the fish made the Power Pro just like a saw! Sliced my finger in the crease almost to the bone... Made for a long day...

Still use it when fishing the grass, and have had no ill effects on the rod guides.

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I bent out a #2 heavy wire Sickle jig hook on Thursday trying to horse a chunky out of a snaggy rock area on 14# Fireline. Need to remember EZ does it with no stretch microfiber.

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Like everyone else said the stuff is great. One thing to keep in the back of your mind, Also like everyone else said it has no stretch. That being said I would disagree with the backing off on the drag. I do that for all of my mono's and did it out of habit. Big mistake on my part. I fish a lot of soft plastics and drape the line over my index finger for feeling those light bites. Well first bite tourney morning I set the hook on a heavy fish and the drag gave a little, Well that little it gave with the tension of the fish made the Power Pro just like a saw! Sliced my finger in the crease almost to the bone... Made for a long day...

Still use it when fishing the grass, and have had no ill effects on the rod guides.

Brad, I put the tip of my thumb on the line leaving the spool of the casting reel. You'd be suprised how many light bites I've picked up doing this.

I agree though, cinch the drag down

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Cadman I started using Power Pro as soon as it hit the market at Cabela's in KC. That was back in 2001 or so. I have some of it that has been spooled up since then and I have yet to turn it around. It used to be yellow but now is off white.

I always use the hi vis yellow and in really clear water I use a fluro or mono leader which I attach to the braid with an Alberto's knot. I only put on about 150' or less over mono backing. It is good line but rocks play heck with it.

I have it is several different sizes from 20/6 down to 5/1. I think it is good stuff but I still like to go mono sometimes just for a change. And yes it will cut you like a knife.

Something for you to try is put the braid on with a 3' mono leader and cast it over a big brush pile with a Trigged bait. As you pull it up you can feel the braid like a hack saw blade on each limb. When it gets smooth you will know the leader is on the limb and you can get ready to wigle the bait over the limb. If you feel anything when the hack saw is in progress then you have had a pick up before the bait got to the limb (set the hook). B)

Two things work well for me with braid: a Power Zap to burn it instead of cut it and the Piltzen or 16/20 knot (because I can tie it in the wind or in the winter with gloves on).

I will tell you that after an 8 or 9 year stint, I still have a love/hate relationship with it.

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Thanks for all the input guys. It helps me put everything in perspective. :yay::yay:

I use braid on a spinning reel for drop shot exclusively, allows me to feel everything on the bottom, I've found a lot of small structure deep because of this. The braid will act like a sail in a cross wind and you'll get a bow in your line, I always position myself to cast with or against the wind with braid. The older it gets the better, becomes even more limp and casts farther. Set your drag accordingly, rods are rated for mono not braid therefore if your knots are good the weak link in your equipment becomes your rod because the braid won't break something will have to give and it's usually the rod. Last I use braid in applications where hook setting power is imperative, in drop shotting the rod does not have the hook setting back bone of a pool cue so what hook set you do get the braid will allow it all to go to the hook point since it doesn't stretch. Bear in mind that because of the "no-stretch" there is always the possibility of the hook point "egging" or "tearing" free, a hazard of the line but worth it.

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I use braid on my hollow body frog rod, and in certain situations I will pitch a jig or soft plastic with that rod as well (dirty water), its got 65# power pro on it. The other application I use super line for is my heavy spinning reel gets fireline 10# on it. Everything else I use is mono or flouro.

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A few things I found with braid over the years. First, if you ever use a very "snappy" hookset on a loose line, stop. Instantaneous strain can break braid at the knot. I've broken 50 lb braid that way. Second, when braid wears and loses its body, it becomes floppy. Look out for it wrapping itself around your rod tip. Next time you cast, the lure may leave unattached to the line, or it can pull the tip top off your rod. Lastly, keep an eye out for loops or loose braid on your spool. They're hard to detect when covered by other line but can cause the Mother of All Backlashes, and that often means you'll be fishing without that rod for the rest of the day (braid backlashes can be next to impossible to pick out!). If you're throwing something heavy like a 3/4 oz rattle bait and have a hidden loop on your spool, 50 lb braid can easily break if a loop catches, sending your bait and the line down to the loop into orbit. Again, instantaneous strain at work. Some guys love the stuff. Some guys hate it. I'm mostly in the latter camp unless I'm pitching lures into heavy vegetation like lily pads or grass mats, where its ability to cut through grass and stems will get more fish to the boat. JMHO

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Ok, so I'm probably the last guy in the world left that doesn't use braided line. Now I bought some to try it out. I am looking for all suggestions good and bad on this. Any and all tips, tricks and ideas welcome. I bought 20lb test green line with the diameter of 6 lb. It will be put on a spinning reel first and then tried on a bait caster after that if I like it. it will be use mainly for casting a jig and pig in semi-weedy areas. So here are some of my questions to you guys. #1 Does the line ever wear out, or get knicked up from dragging on the bottom. #2 Does the line wear grooves in your rod guides especially at the tip top. When do you replace your line and how do you know when to replace it...............Thanks to all who reply.

I use powerpro on my levelwinds, but prefer fireline for spinning reels, it just seems to come off the spool better than braid. You're gonna love the sensitivity. Yesterday, casting to open water fish...I could feel every subtle tap as fish took a somewhat slack lined swimbait. And you can set the hook with authority, no stretch to dampen a firm hookset on big hooks and hard mouthed fish.

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We flip heavy hydrilla mats down here that sometimes are 20 ft in depth. Most of the time you are using a 1oz plus tungsten weight. If you aren't using 65# to 80# braid, you might as well be at home.

I don't use it on anything else but my flippin stick though. Braid is highly visible and may cost you bites at times. I even use a sharpie to marker the final 2 ft of line before my weight.

Heading down to Orange Lake (near Gainesville, FL) this weekend to do work in the hydrilla mats with that 8' flippin stick and heavy braid. Terry "Big Show" Scroggins was there not that long ago and had his 5 best at 52lbs+. Big fish was 12.13.

Power Pro is my choice for my flippin sticks! I reverse it every time I go. It nicks and frays easy so watch close.

Jim

Edited by ghostbaits

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I agree with Pirkfan about Fireline on spinning reels. It casts really well and is easy to manage. I don't recommend the translucent white Fireline however. When I tried it, the fibers separated, which has never been a problem with the original black Fireline.

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I use Suffix performance braid over P. Pro, but that's just my choice. Never go back to mono for using jigs, can feel every bump on the bottom with braid. I fish with a lot of people that have a 3-4 ft mono leader to attach their lures to. I don't do that, but I use Tandem rigs most times, and they are tied to a mono leader already.

I set my drag the same way I did for mono, never had an issue to make me change that.

Try several types of braid, see what you like the best, but I will never go back to mono.

I have tried Spider wire and power pro, did not like either one.

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I use power pro exclusively the only drawback from the smaller lb tests are that they pull into the spool if the drag is too tight. the line will become fuzzy and become faded if you use them in grass or around rocks and zebra mussels I use a little canning wax and run the line between my fingers to fix this and a prismacolor olive pen to recolor the line

I flip and frog fish with 65 or 80

Spinnerbaits and toads on 50

rattlebaits and hollow swimbaits on 40

I use 20lb hollowcore power pro with 6-12 lb fluorocarbon on my spinning reels if I need the braid

the hollowcore was designed for saltwater to make knotless wind on leaders and I have only found it at a few saltwater fishing sites it comes in 5 colors hi-vis, white, blood red, blue and moss green the green is hard to find I bought 1000 yds the last time thread about 1-2 ft of mono or fluorocarbon into the braid smooth it out from the reel end to the end of the braid cinch it down and you are ready to fish it will never come out ( kinda like the old chinese handcuffs)

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I use power pro exclusively the only drawback from the smaller lb tests are that they pull into the spool if the drag is too tight. the line will become fuzzy and become faded if you use them in grass or around rocks and zebra mussels I use a little canning wax and run the line between my fingers to fix this and a prismacolor olive pen to recolor the line

I flip and frog fish with 65 or 80

Spinnerbaits and toads on 50

rattlebaits and hollow swimbaits on 40

I use 20lb hollowcore power pro with 6-12 lb fluorocarbon on my spinning reels if I need the braid

the hollowcore was designed for saltwater to make knotless wind on leaders and I have only found it at a few saltwater fishing sites it comes in 5 colors hi-vis, white, blood red, blue and moss green the green is hard to find I bought 1000 yds the last time thread about 1-2 ft of mono or fluorocarbon into the braid smooth it out from the reel end to the end of the braid cinch it down and you are ready to fish it will never come out ( kinda like the old chinese handcuffs)

I use PP exclusively, I could not get the hollow braid, I like to change leaders so I tie a small bimini twist loop and use a 6 foot section of jerry brown hollow braid and feed in 4 feed of flourocarbon leader in one end and make the internal loop in the other and connect loop to loop for the top shot connection you talk about. This is a miniture off shore top shot leader and I connect it by loops to my main lines, similliar to fly leader connections. You really need the hollow needles to feed the flourocarbon up the hollow braid but all the other loops can be made with leader wire for tools and you can forgoe those expensive latch hooks. Basil, see below, can explain it all, it is all worth it, the only way I fish now.

You must finish all of the leaders with a serving to hold that Flourocarbon leader inside the hollow braid. A drop of Sure Hold Plastic Surgery super glue finishes the serving. When you pull on the flouro leader when it is served it pulls from the serving on the hollow braid, the hollow braid slips down on the flourocarbon and that is what tightens it down on the two feet of inserted flouro by the "chinese handcuff " method. I use a fly tying bobbin for a serving tool and 10 pound Power Pro to 20 pound power pro for the serving line. I got sewing machine bobbins for a few pennies and they fit into the serving tool.

All of my rods now are fitted with Power Pro and a top shot. I use 5 HMG casting rods, 4 left Abu Garcial Left handed XLT Plus 521 reels, and a left C4. I use two HMG spin rods with spirex 4000. If I fish pike 18 inches of boa titanium leader are added to the flourocarbon leader.

Top shot is the way to go and it is a pleasure to meet another person who has discovered this and is transfering the off shore technique to fresh water.

Here is where I get my top shot supplies and tools and help:

http://www.bhptackle.com/index.php

Basil is a great guy to deal with.

Top shots have no exposed knots to clang through your guides, it is quiet and does not cause leader failure like flourocarbon knots do when they are going through guides casting all day.

Edited by Piscivorous Pike

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One basic to mention about braid that's easy to forget - Always put some mono on the spool before you spool on the braid. Braid has no stretch so it will not grip the spool like mono. Without mono backing and under strain, it will spin on the spool and you will think your drag has failed.

One braid gripe occurred to me while fishing yesterday. I was trying braid with a fluoro leader to fish an unweighted Super Fluke. With mono or fluoro, you can usually feel a bite on a plastic bait even if the fish picks it up and swims toward the boat. With braid, that isn't so. It's very strong when pulled but if you push on braid, the weave basically collapses and transmits no vibration up the line. It also floats so it's not ideal for fishing plastics with light or no weight, IMO.

JMHO, braid is great for fishing plastics or moving baits like a lipless crankbait in heavy grass. Otherwise, I'd rather be throwing fluorocarbon.

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