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mark poulson

Hand Pouring Detailed Baits

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I hope you guys can help me.

I have a two cavity open pour RTV mold from Lurecraft for a 4 1/2" lizard. It looks a lot like the Zoom lizard.

I am having trouble pouring it without tons of overpour.

Are there any secrets to doing really small details, like the legs and tail?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

P.S. I'm already working on making it an injection mold, because I'm so frustrated.

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Start by pouring the middle of the body first, dont fill the body all of the way. Once you get a smaller stream of plastic pouring work out one of the arms or appendages and back to the middle, then the cross the body to the other side. After you have finished all of the apendages completely finish off the body. Try to pour a constant stream without stopping.

Good Luck!

Mike

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I was having a hard time pouring little details too. Like Munkin said, it did help to go to a smaller cup (1 cup) and with only about 1/2 cup of plastic in it.

A few other things I have done is:

  • I make sure the plastic is good and hot
  • I try to keep it flowing slow and steady, it goes everywhere when i start and stopping
  • I also try rest my arm on the table and just pour with my wrist, seemed to help

Still nowhere near perfect but much better then when I first started to them. Hope this helps

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I hope you guys can help me.

I have a two cavity open pour RTV mold from Lurecraft for a 4 1/2" lizard. It looks a lot like the Zoom lizard.

I am having trouble pouring it without tons of overpour.

Are there any secrets to doing really small details, like the legs and tail?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

P.S. I'm already working on making it an injection mold, because I'm so frustrated.

Move to a 2-part injection mold from Bears.The end results and all of your new free time will amaze you.

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Most of the above suggestions are right on. Anchor Brand makes a smaller one cup size than Pyrex brand. This is what you need to use. One continuous stream is the key. You can also pour on a pancake griddle set on warm or low. This will help with the flow into the feet, arms, whatevever. A little practice and you'll be doing 3 color pours.

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Mark, use your OTHER hand to steady your cup. Get a towel or something and hold that against the cup with your left hand and you can help guide the cup. You can also use that to wipe the extra dip from the cup spout as needed. Also, a HUGE help is to raise the mold up closer to you and move your cup closer to the mold. Your hand to eye coordination is much better in a shorter distance. As mentioned, the steady stream is vital to appendages and tails.

I hear your frustration and that is why so many go to hand injection. If you end up wanting to do 3 color laminates though, hand injection is out and you are stuck NOT being able to make those colors efficiently.

Trying hand pouring on detailed molds helps you appreciate what guys like Nil, Chris (Al's Worms) and so many others have done for years. My guess is that if you wanted to do it by hand injection, you would have gone that route out of the gate. Practice will get you the satisfaction of accomplishing that pour. :D

Jim

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You can also pour on a pancake griddle set on warm or low. This will help with the flow into the feet, arms, whatevever. A little practice and you'll be doing 3 color pours.

:nono::nono: Somehow I do not think RTV and a griddle will workout too good. I havent poured that mold in awhile now but if I remember correctly the biggest help to me was getting the plastic temp right. Too hot causes lots of over pour while too cold gets cold cracks, I use to start at the body first and fill it up, then do the detailed leg work when the plastic cooled off so that you can pull the plastic where u wanted it rather than pour it.

med_1_4_5inchCurlyTailLizzard.jpg

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I've never personally tried this but I saw a video of someone who would over pour then quickly scrape the mold with a straight edge such as a ruler. But as stated it is doable after practice getting the thin stream is the ticket and I also use both hands as stated I use one to pour and the other is under the cup for support.

DSCF0237-1.jpg

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You just have to get everything working together. Practice goes a long way. Get the temp up as hot plastic will flow better into those thin difficult areas. Raise the mold up closer to your eye level until you get a feel for the mold helps just like using your other hand to steady. Maybe it is not the right mold for your abilities in the end. Don't give up just keep working on it or look for another mold that you can get the results you are looking for.

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Thanks for all the tips.

I'll get a smaller cup and give it another go.

The mold will abide. ;)

oooops, didn't realize you said RTV. Yeah, the griddle is out on that one. You can brush a little scent or worm oil on with one of those sponge brushes. That will give you a shiny finish and possibly help with the flow as well. Check the spouts prior to buying as all spouts are not created equal.

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I've never personally tried this but I saw a video of someone who would over pour then quickly scrape the mold with a straight edge such as a ruler. But as stated it is doable after practice getting the thin stream is the ticket and I also use both hands as stated I use one to pour and the other is under the cup for support.

DSCF0237-1.jpg

Looks familiar :whistle::yay:

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I hope you guys can help me.

I have a two cavity open pour RTV mold from Lurecraft for a 4 1/2" lizard. It looks a lot like the Zoom lizard.

I am having trouble pouring it without tons of overpour.

Are there any secrets to doing really small details, like the legs and tail?

Thanks in advance,

Mark

P.S. I'm already working on making it an injection mold, because I'm so frustrated.

Try the pouring pans from lure craft . I have a lot better control with those vs a big Pyrex cup with a big handle. They're only a few bucks a piece and work well for me. Good luck

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I have had excellent results using a small injector. You can really control the stream and easily direct it where you want it.

i have a Durham's water putty mold. it's a 3 cavity lizard and what i do is...

1. start with main body

2. for the legs i go from the body around with the leg then back to the body. it connects the leg to the body (kinda looks like the top part of a brush hog) so you have to cut it but you have two options

a. cut it once next to the body and have longer legs

b. cut it once at the bod then once at the end of the foot.

2. the tail i go out quick to the tip on one side, then back to the body on the other.

it works really well with the 1 cup pyrex.

Edited by jesse1378
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OK, Here is one of my (another nutty ideas post) lets say that like me my eye hand coordination sucks. I got tired of messing with over pour like I had. If i was going to have to trim baits I wanted it to be the least I could. I picked up some thick ceramic tile with small designs on it. Poured the mold with little regard to spill over. Gave it to the count of five. Then layed the tile on top the mold ,let it set. Pulled it away a few minutes later and got a thin over pour I could trim quickly and a design on the flat side of the lure. Best I can offer.

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OK, Here is one of my (another nutty ideas post) lets say that like me my eye hand coordination sucks. I got tired of messing with over pour like I had. If i was going to have to trim baits I wanted it to be the least I could. I picked up some thick ceramic tile with small designs on it. Poured the mold with little regard to spill over. Gave it to the count of five. Then layed the tile on top the mold ,let it set. Pulled it away a few minutes later and got a thin over pour I could trim quickly and a design on the flat side of the lure. Best I can offer.

That's brilliant!

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