CatchemCaro

Signiture Transparent Printed Paper Trick

22 posts in this topic

I know I have seen posted the "How To" on using a printer and some special clear decale paper for scanning my signiture and manipulating it's size and sticking it to my bait. I was at a craft store today and they had the paper, but the guy said it couldn't be used with my Desk jet printer. Help! What and where to I get the correct paper for my desk jet 4100? Thanks

Rich

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Here's where I get mine. And don't forget the fixative spray. It's sprayed on the decals to keep the ink from running when the decal is dipped in water to release it from the paper.

http://www.papilio.com/

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Here's where I get mine. And don't forget the fixative spray. It's sprayed on the decals to keep the ink from running when the decal is dipped in water to release it from the paper.

http://www.papilio.com/

Ah Ha!!!! Ben, never seen this one, looks like a good product. Pete

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Ah Ha!!!! Ben, never seen this one, looks like a good product. Pete

Hey Pete. Never used the Testors, but I have a feeling it's all pretty much the same stuff. I think the reason I chose the Papilio is that they are located here in Texas and weren't too far from me. They have it for both Ink Jet and Laser Jet. I've been using the Ink Jet stuff. It has worked well for me.

Ben

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Probably a dumb question, but why wouldn't photo finishes work with the decal paper?

They do Mark. I posted a couple baits in the gallery some time back. You must have missed them. Take a look at the link below. If you read the comments I explained how it was done.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/6678-threadfin-decal/

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My brother uses the Testors Decal Paper (Hazmail mentioned) which he got at Hobby Lobby. Put it through his Ink Jet Printer and has no problems putting the logo decals on his baits.

Applies them just like any other water decal .... lets dry ... they clear coats.

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They do Mark. I posted a couple baits in the gallery some time back. You must have missed them. Take a look at the link below. If you read the comments I explained how it was done.

http://www.tackleund...hreadfin-decal/

I was going to post that I thought the double curvature would cause creasing problems, but obviously not. Nice bait Rayburnguy.

Dave

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I was going to post that I thought the double curvature would cause creasing problems, but obviously not. Nice bait Rayburnguy.

Dave

Dave I've only tried the decals on flat sided baits. (rattle traps, etc.) The decals do have a little flex to them so they may work on regular cranks with compound curves. When I did the baits in the photos I was more interested in seeing if the decals would work and took the easiest route which was the flat sided baits. May have to give a regular crank a try. Will report back when I do.

Ben

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They do Mark. I posted a couple baits in the gallery some time back. You must have missed them. Take a look at the link below. If you read the comments I explained how it was done.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/6678-threadfin-decal/

That bait looks great!

Since I'm no Rembrandt (I'm more like Picasso in his cubist period) I really like the photo idea. It's fun to come up with different paint schemes, but those photo finish baits look terrific, and I'm guessing they'd save a lot of time, once I figured out how to do it.

Edited by mark poulson

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Thanks guys. Now I have the information I needed to help get over a new learning curve. I'm wanting to make some custom signiture baits to donate at some of our club events and this will add a special touch to my baits. And now thanks to you Mr. Rayburnguy, I'm going to dab into the actual fish patterns on my baits, WOW. Those baits you practiced on came out great from what I can see on the photo's you posted. I might have to invest some cash into some good soft ware for my lap top, but I think it will be worth it in the end if I can get such a realistic look on my not so realistic lures. Thanks agian for the help guys. I will post some pictures when I get some baits completed in a few weeks. Man, I love this site!

Rich

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One last question on this topic, I think. I have a desk jet printer. I can find any transparent decal paper that is made for desk jet. Can I get away with using the paper for a ink jet?

Rich

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One last question on this topic, I think. I have a desk jet printer. I can find any transparent decal paper that is made for desk jet. Can I get away with using the paper for a ink jet?

Rich

Deskjet is a brand name belonging to Hewlett Packard and is an ink jet printer. So your ink jet decal should work.

Dave

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Thanks Mark, I saw that on there. That blew me away when I saw it. Monster fish are always the ones we don't soon forget and I think that Craig won't be forgeting that fish and that moment for a long time. And he'll always remember that Delta Craw Henrieta that gave him that fish. That's why I love making baits.

Rich

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I was going to post that I thought the double curvature would cause creasing problems, but obviously not. Nice bait Rayburnguy.

Dave

I think the curvature would cause problems. Looking at Rayburn Guys baits it would appear they are flat siders like my own jerkbaits, I would be interested in confirmation from him that they are indeed flat sided. Take a look at the roach I did with decal paper, these are flat sided with rounded edges, the thing to do is blend in with paint. The finished product can be very effective if a good match is attained. The decal on the roach only overlapped the curvature of the edges by a few mm, no more. I think on something like a Big S type bait there would be problems.

http://www.tackleund...-deleted-roach/

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I think the curvature would cause problems. Looking at Rayburn Guys baits it would appear they are flat siders like my own jerkbaits, I would be interested in confirmation from him that they are indeed flat sided. Take a look at the roach I did with decal paper, these are flat sided with rounded edges, the thing to do is blend in with paint. The finished product can be very effective if a good match is attained. The decal on the roach only overlapped the curvature of the edges by a few mm, no more. I think on something like a Big S type bait there would be problems.

http://www.tackleund...-deleted-roach/

They are flat sided baits Phil. Rattle Traps to be exact. Like you said I only overlapped the back and belly a very small amount and then painted over these two areas to blend everything in.

Ben

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I think the curvature would cause problems. Looking at Rayburn Guys baits it would appear they are flat siders like my own jerkbaits, I would be interested in confirmation from him that they are indeed flat sided. Take a look at the roach I did with decal paper, these are flat sided with rounded edges, the thing to do is blend in with paint. The finished product can be very effective if a good match is attained. The decal on the roach only overlapped the curvature of the edges by a few mm, no more. I think on something like a Big S type bait there would be problems.

http://www.tackleund...-deleted-roach/

Nice baits phil

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As it has not been long since i first started making baits, it seems as soon as i try something you guys give me something new to think about. I first wanted to get into airbrushing baits, but I can not afford all the equipment at this point. Last weekend I foiled my first bait. I sent a lot of time creating a pattern in Photoshop. I printed it on regular paper till I acheived the pattern I liked. When I printed nit onto giftwrap paper, I was dissapointed to see a lot of the deatil was lost. This is due to excess bleeding on the gift wrap paper. This decal paper will probably resolve the problem of the bleeding, but after reading everyones comment I wonder if it will work on the standard crankbait.

Just wondering, does anyone have any sujestions on reducing bleeding with foiling, or another way to acheive high quality, very highly detail prints to wrap around my baits?

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Just wondering, does anyone have any sujestions on reducing bleeding with foiling, or another way to acheive high quality, very highly detail prints to wrap around my baits?

I use a wrap paper to print fish images created in Photoshop. It is a white and very thin paper, in a large format (about 1 x .7 m)which I cut out in the size I need for printing. One side of this paper is very smooth, and I print on this side. I think this paper is very similar to what you use, or gift tissue. I had very few cases of bleeding, when the printer was set on "high", but some detail is lost through printing. I think there will always be a difference in resolution between what you see on the screen and what you see on the printed paper. But you have the possibility to set up how much ink the printer will use to print an image (high, medium, low, if I remember well). Try to use this function, until you are satisfied with the image.

What is really important for me about the inkjet is that the ink is water based, and will not run if you use solvent based clearcoats, or epoxies thinned with acetone or thinner.

I found out by accident that the ink was water based, when a drop of water on the freshly applied image on a crank bait created a nice spot on the image.

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I could not find anywhere to adjust ink usage. I too use Photoshop and print on an Epson Stylus 1280. I did try a few things though which have helped. Instead of glueing the gift paper to the aluminum foil and printing, I attched the gift tissue paper to regular printer paper via double stick tape. Some of the excess ink bleed through the tissue paper onto the printer paper, increasing the print quality. However, prining on normal paper still yeilds a much higher resolution. I will keep playing with it till I like the results.

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