Used The Air Brush For The 1st Time. Major Learning Curve Here.

[CatchemCaro]

Well I finally did it. I put some paint into one of my three used Iwata air brushs. I used my HP-C. I used just black Autoair paint. It was fun, but it looks as if it's going to be a little while before I get it down.

1st, question. What is the exact thread and size for the air brush hose? I figure it's 1/8, but what thread? 1/8 NPT, or 1/8 27? And where can I find an adapter from 1/4 pipe to what ever the air brush hose is?

2nd question. What are you guys thinning your Auto air paint with? Can regular tap water be used? Should I even have to thin the Auto Air paint or can it be used without any issues straight out of the bottle?

3rd question. Do you use your heat gun just after applying each layer of Auto Air paint on your baits?

Thanks for any good information.

Rich

[fred27]

Rich, how did you do all those baits you have in the gallery if not with an airbrush? Those look like you pretty much got it down. fred

[mark poulson]

Rich, how did you do all those baits you have in the gallery if not with an airbrush? Those look like you pretty much got it down. fred

I have to agree with Fred. Whatever you've been doing so far is fantastic.

I don't know the answer to the hose question. Go online to an airbrush supply dealer, and ask.

As for thinning your paints, I'd recommend using the thinner that AutoAire, or whoever manufs. the paint, makes for that paint. Compared to the cost of your labor, the right thinner is cheap, and will insure that the paint behaves.

I use a hair dryer, not a heat gun, and I dry each coat, first on low, and then again on high. Trapped water will doom a lure before you even fish it, because it will cause the top coat to lift when it warms up and vaporizes.

If you did your lures without an airbrush before, I can't wait to see what your new ones are going to look like!

[RayburnGuy]

I use the 4011 flash reducer to thin Auto Air paints. It is their recommended reducer. It can also be used in regular Createx paint. Createx and Auto Air are made by the same company. They also make a 4010 reducer, but it doesn't flash off as quick as the 4011. Read more about them at the link below.

http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=128

[whittler]

Take your airbrush and hose to your local NAPA auto parts store and they will have the hardware you need. Air tools or airbrushes they are pretty much a one stop shop.

Edited October 17, 2010 by whittler

[bassnbrad]

Hi, First let mw say your baits look great already, and wil look forward to the airbrushed results. I would strongly suggest getting, if you do not already have, 3 Quick connects and the airbrush air hose. The hose is very supple and allows easier movement. The adapter on my compressor is 1/8 npt and the gun is fine thread. With the Quick connects the guess work is taken out, and you can switch out guns easily if you are not building a manifold. I Rinse my gun at each color change and it makes that so much easier.

With thinning the paint you would probably want to use the manufacturers suggested thinner. If it is water based you can use water, but I would suggest Distilled water. No Impurities that way.

When drying your baits I if you are working with wood baits the heat gun would be ok, but on plastic bodies you run a risk of damaging a glue joint if you overheat. I use a hairdryer only, and like mark I dry on low first to set the paint then hi to dry. I went through too many paint jobs before I realized I was rushing them too fast and the moisture was reeking havoc with my Top coat...

Hope this helps. Tight Lines, bb

Edited October 17, 2010 by bassnbrad