Mcleod

Autoair 4001 Sealer White Adhesion Issue

8 posts in this topic

Hey folks,

Hoping someone may be able to assist with an adhesion issue I am having with Autoair 4001 series sealer white. Specifically the sealer white is adhering well to the plastic thanks to adhesion promotor, however, the top colour and topcoat (they are both adhering well together) can be peeled from the sealer after being lifted with a blade. I believe I am following the application guide and everything looks good, it just falls down when tested. I have not sanded the sealer before top colour because Autoair state it is not required. That is next on my list to try though.

Any thoughts? I am sure I am doing something wrong, any suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance,

Angus

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Sounds to me like the primer isn't truly dry.

I don't use that primer, but I heat set my primer, which is a solvent based rattle can primer from Rustoleum, and wet sand it. Then I let it sit for 24 hours before I start my air brush painting. That way, I'm sure there's no solvent, or water from the sanding, left before I continue painting.

I'm just curious, so forgive what might seem like a dumb question.

I understand you can lift the topcoat and paint off the primer with a blade, but why would you worry about that? The fish, at least here in the U.S., don't carry blades.

I'm guessing Australian fish have teeth.

Maybe you need a stronger top coat.

Edited by mark poulson

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I'm with Mark , I don't use a sealer , after I sand my baits I spray my base coat which I

heat set? From there , each coat I spray is heat set. No issues with paint lifting.

Mike

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I use AutoAir white sealer and have no issues. I am applying it directly to an epoxy used to seal / smooth the wood surface. When I start appying my color coats I have no issues but I do heat set after every color is applied.

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Thanks for the replies guys,

Mark,

I have no idea whether the sealer is dry, however, I take your point. The next samples I try I will leave for 24hrs just in case to see. I did not heat set as I understand Autoair dont need heat setting, just drying. I also did not sand because application guide states you dont need too. I will try both though in the next round of tests. With regards your question, no its not a dumb question and yes there are alot of teeth getting around in Australia. That is one reason why I do the test, then second is just my nature, I want to be sure that what I am doing is working correctly. Inevidbly the fish in my area will make it through any topcoat (similar to your muskie's???) and I want to know that if they do the paint will not peel away. I would hate to get feedback on one of my baits that the top layer could be peeled away from the sealer. That was why I started testing it, however, now unfortunately, I know there is a problem and I cant let it go whether it is likely or not. The separation is just too clean, something is going wrong and curiosity has the better of me.

Mike,

What basecoat do you use if you dont mind me asking?

CL,

I also do that aswell for the wood baits and I have a similar issue to the plastic one's. Color/topcoat can be lifted straight from the sealer. Dont get me wrong, It is not like I can pull the entire top layer off, but I could if careful pull about 5-10mm away before it tears after its is lifted with the blade.

Thanks, I'll keep testing.

Angus

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Angus,

Even though the manuf. says you don't have to heat set AutoAire, I would do it anyway, to be sure all the water is out. It won't hurt the primer. That paint isn't necessarily designed for lures, and in other applications through drying might not be as critical. I don't know this, so I'm just guessing.

I do know that trapped moisture (or solvent) is a sure way to have your paint scheme delaminate.

I would only sand it if it is rough. Otherwise, dry it a hair dryer and paint. Primer has a more open (flat) surface so the paint that's sprayed over it can bond well.

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angus,

i use auto air bases(light and dark) on all my lures and did have some top coat and color lift of on some of my barra lures.

this was during use and the top coat(marine grade laquer) was very week and easily penetrated but in saying that the color did

lift of the base coat with ease leaving the base coat in perfect condition.the base was painted straight onto red cedar.

it was not heat set and was only left to for a round an hour.

since then i purchased more autoair paints from airbrush mega store.com.au(highly recommended) and received a free autoair dvd with my parcel.

it had some great info and tips/techniques on there products. on it it did talk about flashing off there paints including base coats,

but they weren't using heat just an air gun they said autoair will set quickly with high volumes of air hot or cold passing over it.

and be ready for more coats in less than 5 minutes.

since then i have let my lures sit for a few minutes after base coating then heat set with hair dryer for a further 2-3 or more minutes,

then paint again whilst lure is still warm and have had good results using this method.

i also recall him(the tutor on dvd) saying for best adhesion put down a very light coat first followed by a slightly heavier second coat and then full coverage on the third.

obviously this is not so practical when painting scales or using stencils but i haven't had a problem putting one slightly wetter coat on while using these techniques.

hope this helps you in some way angus and you can rectify this problem.

cheers JR...

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Mark,

I agree, I am going to start heat setting aswell regardless. I am aware about trapped moisture causing problems, I thought I had it sorted, however, I am starting to think that is the problem. I find it strange that an autoair component is not adhering to another autoair component. Thanks.

JR,

Thanks for the help. I will give it a try this week. Part of the reason why I want this sorted is due to the Barra, I'm coming up that way in March for a fortnight and want to know that everything is sorted for that trip. Barra can certainly make light work of a lure as I am sure you know.

I also got my Autoair from the same shop and would happily recommend him to anyone. He has great service and I have actually been talking to him about this problem aswell. We are speaking via phone tomorrow so I will be interested with whether he has discovered anything. I also got the DVD and used it to model the process used, unfortunately the problem still occurred. Same as on the DVD high volume of air, flash off, light coats, etc... I was very supprised that it failed given this, but I must have done something wrong.

Thanks for all the helps, I'll post back if I get it sorted.

Regards,

Angus

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