16 replies to this topic
Posted 27 October 2010 - 09:36 PM
I've been using white electrical tape for masking lips on crankbaits and have been hankering for a quicker, neater, cleaner way of doing it. The tape is ok for coverage but the adhesive can be slightly reactive to solvent based paints and it's kinda time consuming wrapping and unwrapping the lips. I've considered making re-usable lip condoms using rtv or something similar but suspect you fella's have a few better ideas.
Posted 27 October 2010 - 09:40 PM
I've only just begun with kranks, but have not had any reaction as of yet .... with the blue 3M painter's tape.
Posted 27 October 2010 - 11:14 PM
I used the blue painters tape for a long time, but I didn't like how the paint/clear would sometimes seep under the tape. I started using the green painters tape, don't remember the name, the one the advertise on tv all the time, it works better for me.
Posted 28 October 2010 - 12:26 AM
I'm also using ordinary painter's masking tape , but your statement about masking condoms just spawned the idea of trying out cut-off fingers of surgeons rubber gloves .
I'm using similar to mask the screw eyes on my lures(always assemble them prior to painting) , .......I take small pieces of vinyl tubing(the kind to dress trebles of spinners , spoons , etc.)and close one end by melting it up with a cigarette ligther or candle and fusing it together with thumb and index finger(pliers work too , if your flesh should not be sufficiently heat-resistant ) .
I'd just push these over the eyes with their open end , ......when always scraping off old paint , they're even re-usable a couple of times .
But I guess , the problem of these rubber gloves fingers would be to cut and position them accurately over the lip to achieve a clean seam where the bill meets the lurebody , .....also maybe the rubber may be affected by solvents , ..........but probably well worth a try ?
Just my , ......good luck , diemai
Posted 28 October 2010 - 08:18 AM
Blue painters tape works, but it can lift around the edges as already mentioned. Especially when u base coat some lures or something and wanna paint them days later...I use the same tape that is used in auto body shops. Its green 3m tape that can be bought at oreillys. Its fairly high but works perfect for me. Solvent resistant, doesn't lift, and easy to apply around curves and such.just my opinion!
Posted 28 October 2010 - 08:19 AM
I also use blue painters tape to mask both bills and hard tails on my lures.
With the tails, I leave enough tape beyond the tail to let me grab it with hemostats, for dipping, without actually grabbing the tail material. I use thin clear guacamole tub lids to cut out my tails, and they are easy to distort if you clamp them with hemostats directly.
The only thing you have to be careful of with blue tape is that the heat of a hair dryer softens the adhesive, so be sure you fold it over itself well enough to really be secure while you're painting.
And be sure to pass an exacto knife along the tape to lure joint, to be sure your paint and top coat don't start peeling with the tape when you remove it.
Edited by mark poulson, 28 October 2010 - 08:20 AM.
Posted 28 October 2010 - 11:33 AM
Good stuff guys, thanx. I tried the Trojan idea again last night with marginal success. Used the fingertip from a nitrile glove, stretched it over the lip and then made multiple dips in a liquid rubber grip material. Will let you know the results once it cures.
Posted 28 October 2010 - 08:43 PM
Are you using the liquid rubber as a seal coat for wooden baits? If so, what type of results have you gotten ..... and what type of paint adheres to the rubber coating?
Posted 29 October 2010 - 04:54 PM
I think what he is doing is putting the rubber dip over the bill protector, to make it thicker.
Posted 29 October 2010 - 05:21 PM
Ah-Hah .... I believe that you're correct Mark! Not sure how I missed that
Posted 30 October 2010 - 09:32 AM
That Rot Dr. epoxy sounds great! I went away from wood for lure building, except for balsa cranks, because even the Minwax Wood Preservative couldn't give a bullet proof seal. Sounds like the Rot Dr. stuff would be the way to go.
Do you brush it on, or do you mix up enough to soak the lures?
Posted 30 October 2010 - 10:12 PM
I just warm up the wood a bit with a heat gun and brush the rot doctor on. Seems like the epoxy gets drawn in a bit better as the wood cools. Two coats will seal the deal as long as you are accurate in the 50/50 mixing. If you don't have a turner and get a few runs, it sands out fairly well. I have some basswood musky baits that have seen quite a few years of use without any blistering or popping, seems to hold up well.
Edited by spoonbender, 30 October 2010 - 10:15 PM.
Posted 31 October 2010 - 05:36 PM
green painters tape. 1 thing. when cutting lexan lips,it comes with a cover on both sides. after painting just peel it off. it works great on our wire thru minee mee baits.