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bigbrown

scale patterns?

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i know that this might sound like a really ametour question, but how do u make the little scale patterns on lures?? you know the little shapes that are like little octagons and they look like scales, do u use a put a stensil on the lure then paint over it so it leaves those little octagon scales? thanks alot please inform me so i know how to make those

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Hi there, I see you are just starting out and have alot of questions which is good. If you need any questions answered on basic things like what glue to use, how to do scale patterns, how to paint eyes, clearcoats and so on, it is quite easy to find as this has been asked several times already. When you go on to the forums page, the first entry you will see is SEARCH, click on search and then put in the item you would like to know about. If the subject has been covered, it will show all the forums that have already been entered. This should help you alot. If you have any questions, feel free to email me or post the questions if there is something you don't understand. Good luck. Ken Schmitz Mylures

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Go to the tutorials section and you will

find a tutorial by "funny farm" on adding

scales to a bait. His are large for muskie

baits, but his process can be used for

other baits as well.

It won't be long before you will be

helping someone else here.

I just started making baits a year

ago this month. Keep it simple

to start with and then branch out.

Coley

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basically...you need some mesh fabric, either from a tackle supply catalog or for a better price a fabric/craft store. It is more or less the same stuff they use in bridal veils, or so my wife tells me (I send her for it). Cut it to a size that is larger than the bait you are painting (about 6x6 for most crankbaits is pretty much ok).

Next you need some way to hold it tight to the bait, movement is bad. I weight mine with water gremlin bullshot worm wts, can also use large split shot. Have made some "frame" devices but have better results with the weighted net. Weights need to go all the way around, not just at the corners. Then I just clamp the bait in an old fly tying vise (which allows adjustment of height, angle, etc), drop the net over it, and shoot the paint on.

There are a couple of basic scale effects...dark over light, and light over dark. The background color will be the color that shows thru the areas covered by the fabric, scale color will be what is shot thru the holes. hi-lite and chameleon colors work very well over a dark (black, gray,blue) background.

As always, thanks to Tim Hughes for the tips on making the "net". Feel free to shoot me some mail if you have Q's.

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Wally World also carries the mesh fabric in their fabric/sewing department. I believe it is called toule and comes in several sizes and costs approximately $1.00 per square yard. That's where I get mine. I have heard that can wash it before you use it and it will be softer. As for holding a piece of mesh in place, cut enough to wrap around the lure, then use several small clothes pins to hold the material along the bottom side of your lure. There are many differnt ways to hold the mesh in place. Just try several until you find what works for you.

Good luck.

Bill

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One of the simplest ways to hold the mesh on the

bait is to spray the mesh lightly with 3M spray

adhesive, and stick it on the bait. It takes less

material and really speeds up the work.

Thanks to Charlie Mitchell for this idea.

Coley

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Coley,

neat idea...do you get much residue from the glue? assume it is a spray, dry, stick kind of process.

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No residue at all. Two small pieces, one for each side.

Spray and peel. Paint does not smear. As soon as you

peel the mesh you can spray the back.

I want to emphasize again, this is not my

idea. It belongs to Charlie Mitchell.

Coley

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Peel the net while it is wet, your not talking

about a heavy, wet spray job on the netting.

It is very light, just enough to get the scales.

Now, I am talking about spraying waterbased

acrylic craft paint. Not enamel, I haven't

tried this with any solvent based paint.

Coley

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