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HawgBone

Newbie Looking For Advice

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Have been thinking about building my own rod for awhile, and recently have really been getting into it.. So I wanted to get my list together, i'm looking for my first rod to be a 7' Topwater Casting Rod, I have been looking at Mudhole for awhile and the blank I've decided on is an MHX Casting blank (CB845-Blend), I'm an EVA kind of guy and like the Camo EVA they have at mudhole, however I'm not sure what size of diameter I'm looking for in my blank. Also I like the Fuji Silicon Carbide guides, I'm a braid kind of guy and these seem like some tough guides.. after all that however It's just kind of a toss up, I'm open to anything anyone has to say on this topic, and this being my first rod I'm going to build I'm willing to put out some money for it, I'm really excited to get into another hobby after I just got addicted to pour soft plastics, and am slowly working my way into pouring lead.

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I have built a few rods over the years and have been using braid for nearly 20 years and have yet to have it cut through any of the ceramic eyes. I now buy the cheap Fuji (?) eyes and add extra eyes to my rods. More eyes look better than higher priced eyes of lesser number. Some times my simpler designs look better than the over done ones that end up looking kind of gaudy. The bottom line is it needs to please you. Good luck and post some finished photo's. Musky Glenn

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Have been thinking about building my own rod for awhile, and recently have really been getting into it.. So I wanted to get my list together, i'm looking for my first rod to be a 7' Topwater Casting Rod, I have been looking at Mudhole for awhile and the blank I've decided on is an MHX Casting blank (CB845-Blend), I'm an EVA kind of guy and like the Camo EVA they have at mudhole, however I'm not sure what size of diameter I'm looking for in my blank. Also I like the Fuji Silicon Carbide guides, I'm a braid kind of guy and these seem like some tough guides.. after all that however It's just kind of a toss up, I'm open to anything anyone has to say on this topic, and this being my first rod I'm going to build I'm willing to put out some money for it, I'm really excited to get into another hobby after I just got addicted to pour soft plastics, and am slowly working my way into pouring lead.

Every rod you build will be better than the last so go easy on the top of the line componants. I agree that the SIC guides are probably more than you need and really pricey. A lot of builders us the fuji alconites as good quality low priced guides. Also check out the manufacturer closeout blanks at mudhole. Might find a good blank at a reduced price there. good luck on your project.

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Sensitivity isn't really a factor for a rod like this so SiC isn't really necessary. Alconites are more than adequate here.

Braid itself doesn't damage guides. Its spun polyethelyne which is a soft naturally "waxy" plastic. What grooves guides is grit carried by the line. Braid does have more good areas to carry grit. However, I know fly rod guides that have grooved wire guides with fly line.

Any decent ceramic is going to stand up to superlines.

EVA stretches when you install it. As does Hypalon. EVA can easily be reamed out as well. Try to get as close to 1/8" under the butt diameter as you can.

I'd actually suggest that your first rod be a cheap one. Spend as little as possible. You'll learn a ton on your first build and there will be plenty of things you'd like to redo.

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After hearing all the input I'm starting to re-think what I want my first rod to be, I've been looking around and doing even more research on it all. I originally wanted to do a 7' Frog Rod with an EVA split grip, but it's looking a little bit too complicated for a beginner. I'm now thinking about doing a 6'6 ultra-light kit that Mudhole has with an MHX blank and cork grips, any suggestions?

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Go ahead and build your frog rod. Might as well build what you want to fish with. I would stay away from the SiC guides, they are overkill. Go for the aluminum oxide guides that Fuji makes, they are cheap and will hold up to braid no problem. Building a rod isn't rocket science, but you need to do your homework and practice your wrapping skills. For your first rod I would recommend using C or D thread, it's much easier to use than A. Shoot me an email to jer@tuscaroratackle.com, I'd be happy to help with any questions you may have.

jeremy

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Go ahead and build your frog rod. Might as well build what you want to fish with. I would stay away from the SiC guides, they are overkill. Go for the aluminum oxide guides that Fuji makes, they are cheap and will hold up to braid no problem. Building a rod isn't rocket science, but you need to do your homework and practice your wrapping skills. For your first rod I would recommend using C or D thread, it's much easier to use than A. Shoot me an email to jer@tuscaroratackle.com, I'd be happy to help with any questions you may have.

jeremy

I'm back to building my dream frog rod thanks to JWags, I'm just curious what all goes into a split grip rod? I know the foregrip and reargrip but after that I'm pretty clueless as far as winding checks and stuff.. anyone have a list of everything I'll need for an EVA split grip? I really like the split grip on the Abu Garcia Vendetta rods with the accenting red, I'd like to make one with blue accents if possible.

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I'm back to building my dream frog rod thanks to JWags, I'm just curious what all goes into a split grip rod? I know the foregrip and reargrip but after that I'm pretty clueless as far as winding checks and stuff.. anyone have a list of everything I'll need for an EVA split grip? I really like the split grip on the Abu Garcia Vendetta rods with the accenting red, I'd like to make one with blue accents if possible.

When I built my split cork grip rods, I used the black polyurethane winding checks and thread wraps to make it look neat. Just use whatever color thread you like for accent. If you're an amateur builder like me, the problem is sizing winding checks to fit where you'll put them and ordering them when you order the rest of the components. I just ordered a variety of sizes. They stretch a little to fit. Metal winding checks? Forget it as far as I'm concerned! You can also lose the winding checks and just build up a thread wrap, then epoxy it. That's easier on EVA handles which have neater margins than cork. It's all about looks, not function. You can use metallic thread as an accent but it's harder for an amateur to wrap because it doesn't stretch and grip the surface of the blank like nylon thread does. An alternative is metallic accent tape. Whatever works for you, slap it on there and a coat of guide epoxy will nail it down.

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Hawgbone, if your gonna build a frog rod Mudhole's 2011 cataloge has a 7.4 Frog Rod dedicated at $47 bucks. I think its a 844 but im at work right now so can't check my cataloge.

Problem is that they are not on line in the store yet, I called and Gary told me they are waiting still for the supplier. He said by the end of Januaray they should have them. may be worth to wait it out, Im gonna wait for it myself.

personally, I would use alconite guides, and go micro, get my own reel seat i want, buy premade split handles, and tiger wrap it. Even play with some winding checks.

The problem on high spending for a rod is you will have something crooked or your finish flawed and at that much money it sucks.

:D Like me my first rod I had both issues, but I spent 20 bucks for a IM6 mudhole blank so it didn't hurt so bad, but the IM6 is a decent blank still.

Good luck with it Im sure you'll love it

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Hawgbone, if your gonna build a frog rod Mudhole's 2011 cataloge has a 7.4 Frog Rod dedicated at $47 bucks. I think its a 844 but im at work right now so can't check my cataloge.

correction, its a MB874 at 55 bucks, its 7.4 12-20 line, Heavy.

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I agree with the above authors, but you need to turn your rod when you put epoxy finish on the guides, either by hand, once every 10-15 minutes to start and be ready to do so for about 3 hours, to be safe or buying a rod turner. Most of us use cork rings to build our split grips, but you can buy the ones that are already shaped if you don't have a lathe. You will still need to get a rat file and fit the hole to go on your rod. Take it slow, and try it often so they aren't to sloppy, you want a snug but not tight fit. If you make 8 marks on you cork, evenly spaced and file so many times on each mark, (say three times and turn) you should be fine. You can use masking tape under your reel seat, start at the grip side, fit your grip on it so it barely slides over. Make sure you leave some space for the glue to slide into next to the grip, 3/8" or so. then do two more with tape, each one fitted to the grip. Do this before applying epoxy. China markers are good to use to mark where you are going to put your split grip and reel seats.

When you start putting on your guides, i use small rings cut from model airplane fuel lines, You can buy short pieces in different sizes to slide over your guides, Small strips of tape work if you aren't planning on building many rods, Slice it up into 1/8" inch wide pcs. Latex tubing will work also to hold your guides, thin strips, 1/4"

Doesn't hurt for the first rod to draw a diagram, list your componets in the order you will glue them up. Epoxy holds real well, and once it sets you are stuck with what you have. (Rear grip, front grip, reelseat, small grip in front of reelseat if desired. )Clean up any glue or epoxy right away. Once its dried, to late. I use quick drying epoxy to make ramps in front of the cork for the thread to climb up, looks really nice, using a small 1/4 paintbrush. Sets quick, so you don't have to turn it long. Once you build one, it turns into a fever, be forewarned!!!!!!!

I build quite a few rods, so if you have building questions, you can shoot me a line Rich

richkendall@comcast.net

Wide river rods

PS: I am semi retired, (not lazy and old) therefore i fish, ALOT>

Edited by Lund1900

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