Uv Blast Top Coat

[ravenlures]

Has anyone used UV Blast from CS coatings top coat on their crankbaits. Dip or spray which is better. Did you put a coating over the UV. Also has anyone used their seal coat.

Thanks

Crazywaynee

[RiverMan]

Has anyone used UV Blast from CS coatings top coat on their crankbaits. Dip or spray which is better. Did you put a coating over the UV. Also has anyone used their seal coat.

Thanks

Crazywaynee

Yep, I have tried the seal coat, another water based clear that doesn't work. Don't waste your money.

RM

[Fishwhittler]

I've got some of the non-UV Blast stuff, and it looks pretty good. I used it on some PVC lures, but I won't know how tough it is until next year when I get a chance to fish it. It has a nice gloss to it, and it's slick and hard in hand. Ease of use is also a plus. I have yet to perform any immersion tests on it, so that's something you might need to watch. I don't really think it will be an issue, but I'll see if I can do some tests on it.

I would say that this topcoat is best suited for plastic lures (repaints or knockoff paints) rather than wooden lures. It's not thick enough in my opinion to provide enough protection for a wooden lure.

I'm sure it's not for everyone, but Seal Coat may work for some uses. I probably wouldn't end up using it on all of my lures, but for example if I had a new prototype I wanted to get finished and tested quickly I could topcoat it at night and fish it the next morning. Or it could work on lures with 3d scales, where you wouldn't want to use an epoxy that would cover over the details.

I spray mine through an airbrush. It takes several coats to build up to a nice, shiny gloss, but you can heat-set each coat with a hairdryer. When you're spraying thicker coats, be careful not to use too much heat. That causes the Seal Coat to dry too fast, and you end up with a "crackle" effect. I dried thicker coats by starting with the hairdryer just blowing air, no heat. Then switch to low heat, and finally hit it on high. I think I took from 1-2 minutes on each setting, probably taking the longest time on cold.

You'd need to be careful about putting another coating over UV Blast. If it reflects UV light, a UV-protected topcoat is going to cut down on this effect or possibly even eliminate it. If you do want to topcoat over it, I'd suggest either regular Seal Coat or Envirotex. I don't believe E-tex is as UV-protected as other epoxies, so it might not affect the UV Blast much.

I hope this helps.

Ben

[RiverMan]

It looks great, easy to use, low odor, dries quick, put it in water and it softens up. Such has been my experience with all water based urethanes.

RM

[DUCBOS]

The only way I have beeen satisfied with it is to put 2 coats on a finished bait and then put a good top coat clear over it. It's not durable at all and when I tried it over a good top coat it lumped up and was rough.

[mark poulson]

They make a spray that's applied over an existing top coat, for cranks and hard baits.

It gives baits a slight purplish tint, and really makes them stand out on low light, overcast days.

Test it first, since it can soften some top coats.

I keep a bottle in the boat, and use it on spoons and tailspins, and on cranks.

[fred27]

Mark, did you catch more on the tail spinners with this applied to them?

[mark poulson]

As always, I don't know. I got bit. Would I have gotten bitten without it? I don't know. That's one of the weird things about bass fishing.

But I do believe I get bit more with it. I had one of only three limits in a recent tournament, and I had put the UV worm dip on my plastics.

Did it help? It helped me to fish the cold, dirty water more slowly, and to expect to be bit. Confidence is everything on a tough bite.

But don't tell the guys I fish against!

Edited December 16, 2010 by mark poulson