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Why Do You Leave The Lip Off Of Your Bait Until Last?

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I have been making a few crankbaits out of pvc, but I have been attaching the lip before finishing. Am I messing up? So far the baits are running very well, although none are finished(waiting on airbrush), so I don't know how much if any this will change my baits.

Please enlighten me as to why you wait to glue the lip in permanently.

Thanks, Shane

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You are not messing up at all. Some of the top builders do it one way, some the other. The arguement for fitting the lip just before the top coat, is for a cleaner paint job and no lip masking operations. Nothing wrong with either method.

Dave

Like Dave said, there is no right or wrong. Every step of making a bait you will develope what works best for you, from wood or material selection to the assembly process to paint and topcoat. Do not be afraid to experiment and try new things. Most of us who have been doing this for years have a drawer, shelf, cabinet or bucket in the corner of the shop with a whole lot of stuff that didn't work.

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Like Dave said, there is no right or wrong. Every step of making a bait you will develope what works best for you, from wood or material selection to the assembly process to paint and topcoat. Do not be afraid to experiment and try new things. Most of us who have been doing this for years have a drawer, shelf, cabinet or bucket in the corner of the shop with a whole lot of stuff that didn't work.

[/quot

Ditto! Do what ever works best for you! I like to put the bill in last, it makes the bait look much cleaner.

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Like Dave said, there is no right or wrong. Every step of making a bait you will develope what works best for you, from wood or material selection to the assembly process to paint and topcoat. Do not be afraid to experiment and try new things. Most of us who have been doing this for years have a drawer, shelf, cabinet or bucket in the corner of the shop with a whole lot of stuff that didn't work.

LOL... glad im not the only one!!!

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Yeah, it's whatever works best for you. There's certainly no performance issue as long as the lips are straight. I don't like the job of putting masking tape on/taking it off lips, so I glue lips in after painting but before clearcoating. When and how you do it flows along with the rest of the way you build. For instance, I like to hold baits by a lip with locking forceps while painting. Since I don't mount the lips until later (and I don't want to mar the lip with forceps), I cut some "false lips" out of lip material and fit them into the lip slots, padding them out with a little masking tape if needed so there's a good friction fit into the slot. Makes a nice secure thingy to grip with the forceps while painting. The false lips have holes drilled in their ends so I can hang the baits on nails along a shelf over my workbench while painting a series of baits. When finished, I pull out the false lips and save them for next time. It's just the method I've developed to suit the way I work, and it fits my work area.

Edited by BobP
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I have a particular reason why I usually glue in the lip the last, so even after clearcoating. I have to unclog the lip slot after clearcoating, seal the wood inside the lip slot, then I try different types of lips (which stay fit into the lip slot during testing, sometimes with the help of some extra material put into the lip slot to ensure friction, to see which one of the lips I have on me gives the lure the best action (I mean the action I like the best, which is not necessarily the action the fish like the best :) )

The lips I try have different shapes and some are bent to different angles.

I like to play with a lure's action.

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Rofish brought up the point I was thinking of for not gluing in a lip before sealing.

With wooden lures, water intrusion is death.

There are many other ways to seal wooden baits. This is just the method I use.

But, whichever method you use, sealing before gluing in the lip is a very good idea.

I do not make many wood baits any more, but when I do make a wooden bait, I cut the lip slot, and all the hardware holes and ballast holes, finish shape the lure, and then seal the wood as well as I can.

I don't mind masking the lips, so I glue the lips in after I seal the bait, and then paint and top coat.

By sealing the lip slot before I glue in the lip, I get another layer of protection.

I use runny crazy glue to seal the lip slot, the ballast holes, and the hook hanger and line tie holes, because it really penetrates and actually makes the wood stronger.

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