orionn1

Rotating Lures When Clear Coating

10 posts in this topic

Here is my first attempts at airbrushing and clear coating. I used d2t

I included my rotating device. I thought it would be go to see what other people have setup to rotate their lures. It is a rotissere from a bbq , I used electrical tape to tape on alligator clips but I am not really happy with it. When I clear coat leadheads as they rotate over they kind of flop over causing the whole device to become unstable over time. It actually flipped over one time ruining my heads and lures. So any ideas would be great and with pictures and maybe start a sticky. I would like to see what other people have out there I was thinking about using d2t to attach the alligator clips and I also want to see how I can make it longer to be able to attach more lures and leadheads at the same time. Fyi I got about a 150 paint brushes from michaels for $6.99 picture attached

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Here is my first attempts at airbrushing and clear coating. I used d2t

I included my rotating device. I thought it would be go to see what other people have setup to rotate their lures. It is a rotissere from a bbq , I used electrical tape to tape on alligator clips but I am not really happy with it. When I clear coat leadheads as they rotate over they kind of flop over causing the whole device to become unstable over time. It actually flipped over one time ruining my heads and lures. So any ideas would be great and with pictures and maybe start a sticky. I would like to see what other people have out there I was thinking about using d2t to attach the alligator clips and I also want to see how I can make it longer to be able to attach more lures and leadheads at the same time. Fyi I got about a 150 paint brushes from michaels for $6.99 picture attached

IMG_1631.jpg

IMG_1633.jpg

IMG_1637.jpg

IMG_1636.jpg

IMG_1635.jpg

th_IMG_1634.jpg

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You might want to check out Home Brew tools on the site. It will provide a lot of info on drying wheels and even show some pics of how many of the hard bait builders have constructed their wheels. The motor you have now seems like the most popular way of providing the rotation. I built a wheel using two 14 inch diameter plywood disc that were attached to the shaft that comes off of the motor. I then purchased about two dozen small plastic clamps from the local discount tool supplier and used phillips head screws to attach the clamps to the outside edge of each plastic wheel. The clamps face inwards toward each other. Each end of the shat I used sits in a wooden cradle which allows the disc to turn freely allowing about two inches from the base to the bottom of each wheel. On the inside of each wheel I also inserted many eye hooks so I could use rubberbands and wire hooks to support longer lures from each end and still be able to rotate.Anyway you are going along the right track but look at the info on the site about wheels, they are an absolute must if you use any type of slow drying top coat which you will have to eventually use if you are building plugs. Hope this has helped a little

Rotorhead

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You might want to check out Home Brew tools on the site. It will provide a lot of info on drying wheels and even show some pics of how many of the hard bait builders have constructed their wheels. The motor you have now seems like the most popular way of providing the rotation. I built a wheel using two 14 inch diameter plywood disc that were attached to the shaft that comes off of the motor. I then purchased about two dozen small plastic clamps from the local discount tool supplier and used phillips head screws to attach the clamps to the outside edge of each plastic wheel. The clamps face inwards toward each other. Each end of the shat I used sits in a wooden cradle which allows the disc to turn freely allowing about two inches from the base to the bottom of each wheel. On the inside of each wheel I also inserted many eye hooks so I could use rubberbands and wire hooks to support longer lures from each end and still be able to rotate.Anyway you are going along the right track but look at the info on the site about wheels, they are an absolute must if you use any type of slow drying top coat which you will have to eventually use if you are building plugs. Hope this has helped a little

Rotorhead

Thanks rotorhead, do you have picture of your setup?

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Mark:

That is pretty close to my turner. I purchased some small plastic spring clamps from Northern tools and attached about ten to each of the disc so they would face inward. I can open a clamp place the bill of the lure in the clamp and turn it on then walk away. The center shaft that the disc are attached to are square so I could glue the disc in place. The un- powered end has a 20 penny nail driven into the shaft and rides on a small grove in a vertical piece of wood that supports the shaft. The other end sits on the same type wood configeration as the un-powered end but have coupled it to the turning motor. Cheap and it has worked for about two years.

Rotorhead

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Here is my turner. Its made from a ($25)cheap rottisserie from wallmart, rubber bands, wire hook hangers and some srap wood I had laying around in the shop. I'm new to lure making and don't know if it makes a difference witch way you rotate. I've only used this one time, I just finished it a few days ago and did ok I guess. I did have to apply a second coat to some of them because some small craters that formed but that may be normal for top coating, I dont know. I have a few mods Im going to do, like replace the wooden dowel with threaded rod. This should let me stretch it out and make it stonger for more lures.

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Here is my turner with some of the wheels and holding fixtures that I use. I can turn up to 68 baits.

The U shaped holder is for jointed or swimbaits.

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