CNC Molds N Stuff Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 A bazillion and three years ago I used to cast my own round balls for my cap and ball revolver. My molds had a "shear plate" on them that acted as a sprue. You would pour through a cone shaped opening in the plate into the ball cavity, and then when the lead was hard you would smack the side of the shear plate into the table. It would cut off the sprue leaving just the tiniest little flat spot on the bullet. Other than the extra expense and maybe a little awkwardness to lay out when mold making why not make jig and some other lead molds that way? I'll post a picture when I find it again. I ran across one of my old bullet molds in a box when I was cleaning up and reorganizing in the shop the other day. I know some baits molds would be a pain to layout, but I bet a lot of them would work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted January 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 A bazillion and three years ago I used to cast my own round balls for my cap and ball revolver. My molds had a "shear plate" on them that acted as a sprue. You would pour through a cone shaped opening in the plate into the ball cavity, and then when the lead was hard you would smack the side of the shear plate into the table. It would cut off the sprue leaving just the tiniest little flat spot on the bullet. Other than the extra expense and maybe a little awkwardness to lay out when mold making why not make jig and some other lead molds that way? I'll post a picture when I find it again. I ran across one of my old bullet molds in a box when I was cleaning up and reorganizing in the shop the other day. I know some baits molds would be a pain to layout, but I bet a lot of them would work just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 8, 2011 Report Share Posted January 8, 2011 I am thinking along the same lines for a ballast lead pouring mold. The 'mold' of the weights would be two halves clamped. The pour plate would be 2mm or even 3mm steel sheet with holes aligned with the cavities. The pour trough would be cast resin, back drilled. Lots of 'key' holes for the resin to grip to. A light tap with a mallet should 'shear' all the sprues. The reason for the resin trough, is to prevent the heat from being sucked out of the melt. Also it would be easy to make a wooden master. The thick steel sheet to minimize distortion. Maybe an 'L' bracket/angle would be better for holding shape. I will get around to making it one day. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
