Painting Spinner Blades
25 replies to this topic
Posted 18 January 2011 - 09:02 AM
going to paint up some musky spinner blades, should i scuff them with scotchbrite, put down base, then color, what can i coat them with to protect the finish,,,i have never done blades...will etex work or is there something thinner i can use that will hold up.
Posted 18 January 2011 - 09:28 AM
I painted a bunch of walleye blades this winter. No scratching necessary, I was painting hammered nickel size 4 and 5's. Some of them I put down white Createx base, some of them I left nickel base and simply top coated. I thinned my Devcon 2t with alcohol and they turned out great. Rock hard top coat.
Posted 18 January 2011 - 10:50 AM
i have never thinned etex, can i use acetone or denatured alch for that?
Posted 18 January 2011 - 12:14 PM
You won't need to thin the e-tex. I done a few blades and coated with flex coat and those held up pretty good. I just prime the blade and paint.
Posted 18 January 2011 - 03:34 PM
I've used epoxy and moisture cured urethane (Dick Nite topcoat) on spinner blades. The epoxy works but cures to a very thin coat on any sharp edge, so is more prone to chip off during use. It also can make the blade considerably heavier. Maybe that's not a consideration on big musky baits but it is on bass spinnerbaits. The urethane was designed for dipping spoons and forms a very durable, thin coating that has superior clarity. Of course, I don't know if Dick Nite is selling his moisture cured urethane now, or whether it is cost effective to buy a rather expensive clearcoat which you may not use for other building tasks. But to my mind, Dick Nite is perfect for this particular application.
Posted 18 January 2011 - 07:47 PM
Another choice is to Powder Paint them .... works good
Posted 18 January 2011 - 08:31 PM
I'm with JSC, like the powder coating program over standard liquid paints for metallic lure parts. I've done both over the years, use the powder almost exclusively now. Powder water allows adding great details with an airbrush, and there's a ton of cool holographic and shift powders available.
Edited by spoonbender, 18 January 2011 - 08:32 PM.
Posted 18 January 2011 - 11:12 PM
I just painted some and dipped the finish product in the old Dick Nite formula. Turned out perfect. Might want to consider Glisten PC for this application. It was made to go over metal products.
Posted 19 January 2011 - 08:23 AM
Never used the powder before where do u get it and what brand
Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:02 AM
Goggle "TJs" Has the "Stuff" U need and also Videos on how to do it ... make sure U check out the Videos.
Several other places have it .. but TJs has the good videos on how to do it.
Hope that helps
Edited by JSC, 19 January 2011 - 09:03 AM.
Posted 19 January 2011 - 09:16 AM
I googled TJs, but couldn't find anything about powder paint. Do you have a real link I could try?
Posted 25 January 2011 - 09:37 AM
here is some i shot, i think they turned out good....what i am looking for is something i can attached to my drying wheel to get these guys coated and spin them so it doesnt build up on the lips and such on the blades.
please see the picture for the blades i am using..if anyone has any ideas on turning them on the wheel please let me know.
i have attached two pictures so you guys can see what i am dealing with, most are fluted blades so i think i really need to keep them moving.
i have all three and am going to try all 3.
Posted 25 January 2011 - 11:40 AM
Another reason to like Dick Nite original moisture cured urethane is you just dip it and hang it. No rotating, no spraying an auto clear. Any excess drips right off the end. It takes a few days to cure to final hardness but can be handled after a few hours when the solvent has flashed off. It's designed for dipping Dick Nite metal spoons so it's a custom solution for your task if you do a lot of them. BTW, nice paint jobs!
Edited by BobP, 25 January 2011 - 11:41 AM.
Posted 25 January 2011 - 12:07 PM
hey bobp, is dick nite even available anywhere? from what i have been hearing it is hard to get??? these are my first blades my paint has touched...i like painting blades,,it is a fun change from hardbody lures.
Posted 25 January 2011 - 12:15 PM
i assume i just order it right from him http://www.dicknite.com/s81.htm. is there a super long wait to get it?
Posted 25 January 2011 - 04:44 PM
Dick gives us a discount on his products and has set up a page just for the people at TU to order from. You have to order from the link below to get the discount though.
BTW..........nice looking bunch of blades you've painted.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 25 January 2011 - 04:45 PM.
Posted 26 January 2011 - 08:21 AM
awesome!! i just ordered a quart from him. thanks for the info, and thanks on the complements!
Posted 26 January 2011 - 09:07 AM
If your not familiar with the storage issues of Dick Nite's top coat you will need to read up on how to handle and store it so it doesn't start to cure in the shipping container. Since it is a moisture cure urethane it will start to cure when it is exposed to the moisture in the air. A lot of us use Bloxygen to keep this from happening. Bloxygen is nothing more than Argon gas. Argon is an inert gas that is heavier than air. When sprayed on top of the DN it settles to the surface of the top coat and forms a protective blanket to keep air and moisture from reaching it. If you plan on brushing DN onto your blades you can tap the can that the DN comes in with a sheet metal screw and only draw out however much is needed. If you plan on dipping your blades you will need to use a separate container for dipping. I use a pint mason jar to dip in and leave the rest sealed in the shipping container after spraying Bloxygen into it. This way your not slowly contaminating the whole quart of DN. If you have any questions on storing it just holler and we'll try to help.