6 replies to this topic

[J's Muskie Customs]

does or has anyone made or have a muskie blade turner or attachement that they can put on their drying wheel. I have started painting blades lately and am using cristal pc, devcon 2ton, and envirotex and i want to turn them so it doesnt build up... i need to get something built, just wonder what would work best?? aligator clips? it would be nice to have a rod to slide through them to keep them inline.



thanks!!!

[Vodkaman]

J, on 25 January 2011 - 09:33 AM, said:

does or has anyone made or have a muskie blade turner or attachement that they can put on their drying wheel. I have started painting blades lately and am using cristal pc, devcon 2ton, and envirotex and i want to turn them so it doesnt build up... i need to get something built, just wonder what would work best?? aligator clips? it would be nice to have a rod to slide through them to keep them inline.

I thought you might have had a few replies to this request by now. My guess is not too many members visit this section of TU. Good idea starting a new thread for this problem though.

I saw the blades that you are talking about on another of your posts. This question has been discussed before, but I don't recall a satisfactory solution. It is near impossible to search for the thread unfortunately.

For blemish free mounting, you only have the hole to work with, but anything that you put in the hole, like a tapered stick, the epoxy will ride up against and you end up with what looks like a volcano once the stick is removed. Cleaning/trimming/sanding this build up will leave a visible blemish on your work. But I cannot think of another way to get the job done.

I did a test on a piece of aluminium with a hole. I waxed up a BBQ skewer and wiped excess wax off. Jammed it into the hole. I applied the D2T epoxy with a small, fairly stiff brush. I was able to rotate the stick between finger and thumb and lay down the epoxy close to the stick and fairly quickly. I then pushed the epoxy with the tip of the bristles, as close as possible to the stick but without touching. If it does touch, not to worry, that is why we waxed the stick, so the epoxy will not adhere. The trick is not to lay too thick a coat, just enough to get the job done.

I drilled a 3mm diameter hole in the drying wheel, tapered the other end of the stick and jammed it in. The method worked just fine. The aluminium did not fall off, but I only did one test. You can increase the grip of the stick by reducing the angle of the point (longer taper).

Dave

[RayburnGuy]

If your only painting one side of the blades couldn't you use something to stick the back of the blade to some type of holder? I'm sure you've seen them use heated wax, or whatever it is, to hold diamonds while they're cutting them.

[152nd Street Baits]

Maybe some sort of suction cup?

http://suctioncups.c...id=37&Itemid=52

[Vodkaman]

I assumed both sides. But if only one side, a tiny drop of CA glue on the end of the BBQ stick. I just tried it. Easily strong enough for epoxy application. It does leave a slight blemish though. But you could paint a black spot with a paint pen and call it a kill spot.

Dave

[StrykerLures]

I airbrush my Blades, I only spray the front so I usually use a "stick" or some kind and something like chewing gum. maybe scotch tape folded on its self and a small piece of wood to hold it up. Other then that a rubber band through the hole tightly. lite airbrushing, the only spot that doesn't get covered is where the split ring will be anyways so It seems to be fine. a More professional finish. maybe a piece of wire going through the hole in a diamond shape. wide at the bottom. it will make it so that no piece of the metal is touching the blade.

Edited by StrykerLures, 13 April 2011 - 11:49 PM.

[eric001]

my buddy made a drying wheel attachment that was spring loaded. bascly he made a hydr. ram looking thing with metal tubing and springs, he then puts the blades between the compressable ram thingys. so you could hold the blade and rotate it, but at the end he would have to touch up the etec so the fin. doesnt chip off. from what we have found the added weight of the etec effects how the blades flair/spin my .02

Edited by eric001, 23 February 2012 - 10:13 AM.