J's Muskie Customs Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 does or has anyone made or have a muskie blade turner or attachement that they can put on their drying wheel. I have started painting blades lately and am using cristal pc, devcon 2ton, and envirotex and i want to turn them so it doesnt build up... i need to get something built, just wonder what would work best?? aligator clips? it would be nice to have a rod to slide through them to keep them inline. thanks!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 does or has anyone made or have a muskie blade turner or attachement that they can put on their drying wheel. I have started painting blades lately and am using cristal pc, devcon 2ton, and envirotex and i want to turn them so it doesnt build up... i need to get something built, just wonder what would work best?? aligator clips? it would be nice to have a rod to slide through them to keep them inline. I thought you might have had a few replies to this request by now. My guess is not too many members visit this section of TU. Good idea starting a new thread for this problem though. I saw the blades that you are talking about on another of your posts. This question has been discussed before, but I don't recall a satisfactory solution. It is near impossible to search for the thread unfortunately. For blemish free mounting, you only have the hole to work with, but anything that you put in the hole, like a tapered stick, the epoxy will ride up against and you end up with what looks like a volcano once the stick is removed. Cleaning/trimming/sanding this build up will leave a visible blemish on your work. But I cannot think of another way to get the job done. I did a test on a piece of aluminium with a hole. I waxed up a BBQ skewer and wiped excess wax off. Jammed it into the hole. I applied the D2T epoxy with a small, fairly stiff brush. I was able to rotate the stick between finger and thumb and lay down the epoxy close to the stick and fairly quickly. I then pushed the epoxy with the tip of the bristles, as close as possible to the stick but without touching. If it does touch, not to worry, that is why we waxed the stick, so the epoxy will not adhere. The trick is not to lay too thick a coat, just enough to get the job done. I drilled a 3mm diameter hole in the drying wheel, tapered the other end of the stick and jammed it in. The method worked just fine. The aluminium did not fall off, but I only did one test. You can increase the grip of the stick by reducing the angle of the point (longer taper). Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 If your only painting one side of the blades couldn't you use something to stick the back of the blade to some type of holder? I'm sure you've seen them use heated wax, or whatever it is, to hold diamonds while they're cutting them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard Prager Posted January 26, 2011 Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Maybe some sort of suction cup? http://suctioncups.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=37&Itemid=52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 I assumed both sides. But if only one side, a tiny drop of CA glue on the end of the BBQ stick. I just tried it. Easily strong enough for epoxy application. It does leave a slight blemish though. But you could paint a black spot with a paint pen and call it a kill spot. Dave 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StrykerLures Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 (edited) I airbrush my Blades, I only spray the front so I usually use a "stick" or some kind and something like chewing gum. maybe scotch tape folded on its self and a small piece of wood to hold it up. Other then that a rubber band through the hole tightly. lite airbrushing, the only spot that doesn't get covered is where the split ring will be anyways so It seems to be fine. a More professional finish. maybe a piece of wire going through the hole in a diamond shape. wide at the bottom. it will make it so that no piece of the metal is touching the blade. Edited April 14, 2011 by StrykerLures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eric001 Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 (edited) my buddy made a drying wheel attachment that was spring loaded. bascly he made a hydr. ram looking thing with metal tubing and springs, he then puts the blades between the compressable ram thingys. so you could hold the blade and rotate it, but at the end he would have to touch up the etec so the fin. doesnt chip off. from what we have found the added weight of the etec effects how the blades flair/spin my .02 Edited February 23, 2012 by eric001 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Da big tuna Posted December 12, 2012 Report Share Posted December 12, 2012 I spray the epoxy and never have problems with runs. My blades turn out nice and smooth 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
defish Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 If they're steel blades and only one side is getting painted, maybe a magnet to attach them to the holder in the dryer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted February 20, 2013 Report Share Posted February 20, 2013 hi. we use racks for blades. use rabbit wire clip the wire. that gives a hang spot every few inches or use a board. put finish nails to size. we use automotive clear coats. spray and let dry. i just finished a few hundred nu10 colorado blades. its fast and a rock hard finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colonel Forbin Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 If you are only painting one side of the blade, take a piece of baseboard trim 2 inch for blades 6 and 7 and for 8-12 4 inch board and applyl double sided tape to the board, drop the blades on and give them a slight push then spray away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
