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orionn1

Automotive Clear Coat

6 posts in this topic

By hard enough do you mean durable? Yes it is. Now let me ask some questions. Do you have a proper 1/2 or full face respirator? Do you have a proper spray booth to vent highly noxious and flammable vapors from your workspace, including drying time after spraying? If you have that kind of a set up, or are willing to deal with that hassle, it can be done. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!

Douglas

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I use some of the PPG DX series clearcoat it is the hardest most durable PPG makes its expensive and only has a 15 day shelf life on both parts once opened like rowhunter said you need a respirator and adequate ventilation the first time I used it I cleared over 100 baits and didnt think anything about a mask because it didnt seem very noxious but an hour or so after I noticed everything had an aurora-aura whatever you call it and I proceeded to take a two day trip and never left the couch I had to take breating treatments afterward as well as visit the Emergency room for being unconsious for over 4 hours

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I use some of the PPG DX series clearcoat it is the hardest most durable PPG makes its expensive and only has a 15 day shelf life on both parts once opened like rowhunter said you need a respirator and adequate ventilation the first time I used it I cleared over 100 baits and didnt think anything about a mask because it didnt seem very noxious but an hour or so after I noticed everything had an aurora-aura whatever you call it and I proceeded to take a two day trip and never left the couch I had to take breating treatments afterward as well as visit the Emergency room for being unconsious for over 4 hours

That is some scary stuff.

When nitrocellulose lacquer was used by everyone, we used to think it was great to get a buzz from the fumes when the painters sprayed the cabinets on a job.

I had no idea how bad it was for us, until I almost passed out on a commercial job, and had to be helped outside so I could breathe clean air. As it was, I had to sit for half an hour before I could walk without falling down.

Solvent fumes are nothing to fool around with, especially with today's catalyzed finishes.

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I have tried most of the clear options and auto clear is in my opinion the best.... THAT IS if you can deal with all the negatives. I spray the clear outside in my back yard and wear a full mask. I will not spray it in my garage booth. This leaves limitations as to when and how often I can spray so I still have other TC materials at my fingertips for when I cant use Auto Clear.

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Automotive clear will never be as tough as devcon. I use both. The guys are telling you right about the fumes etc. The stuff is strong smelling, plus the cost is pretty high. You will need the clear, reducer, and hardner. That is for Urethane clears, which is about all there is anymore. There are also tricks to spraying it. i.e. Spray the first coat and let it start to tack before shooting the second coat. Otherwise the stuff can really run just like paint. Usually 3 coats will do. This stuff applies like nothing I have ever shot thru an airbrush. You do need a mask. No doubt about that. It can really lay down a fog. The stuff is solvent based, not water. What this means is that if you get it in your lungs it will not dissolve and flush out. But dont freak out. This is not a death elixer. You can shoot the stuff with good results if you control the negatives like Matt said. Some folks add a flex additive to it so that it will be tougher. It is what they add to the stuff for plastic car bumpers. It keeps the clear from cracking when the bumper bends. I use this clear on baits with sharp edges like a pop-r. Devcon will crack on real sharp edges. You also need to buy a very good quality clear. Cheap stuff will never hold up... trust me. But it will NEVER be as tough as Devcon.

Skeeter

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