bigjohn4583

Base Coats/top Coats

9 posts in this topic

please excuse me i am a rookie,the base coat is that always a water based paint,and the transparent paints what would be some good colors to buy without taking out a loan,and last while i am waiting for my order from Dick Nite[top coat]what can i buy locally thats number 2.Sorry one more-do you have to heat/spin dry your baits if your using Dick Nites top coating.Thanks

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please excuse me i am a rookie,the base coat is that always a water based paint,and the transparent paints what would be some good colors to buy without taking out a loan,and last while i am waiting for my order from Dick Nite[top coat]what can i buy locally thats number 2.Sorry one more-do you have to heat/spin dry your baits if your using Dick Nites top coating.Thanks

John,

Most guys use an opaque white water based paint for color basecoating. Water based paints have to be applied over a waterproof surface. That means wood baits need a waterproof undercoat such as epoxy before color basecoating, plastic baits do not.

Good colors: opaque white (basecoating). Pearl white. Transparent or metallic blue and green. Transparent brown. Opaque Black. Red. Neon Yellow.

Maybe there are spray can polyurethanes you can use as an interim topcoat before the Dick Nite arrives, but I don't know what they are. A slow cure epoxy like Devcon Two Ton or Envirotex Lite works well, but you'd have to build a lure turner to rotate the lures while the epoxy cures. I'd just wait for the Dick Nite to get there.

If you ordered Dick Nite moisture cured urethane topcoat, read up on handling, storage, and application before you crack that can! Don't try adding it to a lure you already coated with an aerosol polyurethane - it will just trash the whole finish. I simply dip baits in Dick Nite and then hang them to dry, letting the excess drip off the tail of the bait. Quick and easy and it's the method with fewest problems. Don't heat or rotate.

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Hey John , Welcome

A lot of people use Createx & AutoAir paint , there both water base , I know a lot of people use the wild life paints , can't give any

info on the wild life paints?

I use Createx & AutoAir , they don't cost a lot , I get my paint from (coast air brush) , Createx 4-oz bottle goes for $4.25 ea. &

Auto Air 4-oz goes for $6.95 - $7.10 ea. The 4 oz bottles go a long way.

Hope that helps some

Mike

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Ok was wondering if anyone has used Polyurethane bought at like wally world to top coat you baits? looking for cheaper way to get the same hard finish as Dnite

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Some TU'ers have tried "regular" polyurethane topcoats. Maybe they're tough enough for some but none that I've heard of that can compare to the toughness and waterproof nature of a moisture cured urethane like Dick Nite, or any of several epoxies. All said and done, you put a lot of time and effort into building a crankbait and finishing it. It makes sense to protect it with the best topcoat you can get, IMO.

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Ya just wait for your DN to come. I am pretty new at this and I tried the whole D2T and unless you make sure to mix it really well it will ruin you bait. Nothing makes me madder than working on a bait for 2 to 3 hours just to have not mixed the D2T well enough and having sticky spots. Once I got DN it was like a wonderful thing. Just get some bloxygen before you crack the can otherwise you will ruin the whole batch in no time.

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John,

Most guys use an opaque white water based paint for color basecoating. Water based paints have to be applied over a waterproof surface. That means wood baits need a waterproof undercoat such as epoxy before color basecoating, plastic baits do not.

Good colors: opaque white (basecoating). Pearl white. Transparent or metallic blue and green. Transparent brown. Opaque Black. Red. Neon Yellow.

Maybe there are spray can polyurethanes you can use as an interim topcoat before the Dick Nite arrives, but I don't know what they are. A slow cure epoxy like Devcon Two Ton or Envirotex Lite works well, but you'd have to build a lure turner to rotate the lures while the epoxy cures. I'd just wait for the Dick Nite to get there.

If you ordered Dick Nite moisture cured urethane topcoat, read up on handling, storage, and application before you crack that can! Don't try adding it to a lure you already coated with an aerosol polyurethane - it will just trash the whole finish. I simply dip baits in Dick Nite and then hang them to dry, letting the excess drip off the tail of the bait. Quick and easy and it's the method with fewest problems. Don't heat or rotate.

Where can I get some Dick Nite moisture cured urethane topcoat ?

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Where can I get some Dick Nite moisture cured urethane topcoat ?

Order it from the Dick Nite site here: http://www.dicknite.com/TU_Lander.htm

Dick sells topcoat to TU members at a discount that can only be accessed from the link - or you can call him to place an order. There are 3 different topcoats: S81, which is the original solvent based moisture cured urethane. S83 which is a water borne oxygen cured product. And a "plasti-cote" product (don't know its details).

I prefer the S81 but you can discuss them Dick if you call him, and you can do a search on Dick Nite in this forum for plenty of threads discussing the pros and cons of each of them, recommended application methods, storage requirements (important with S81), test results, etc etc etc

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Ya just wait for your DN to come. I am pretty new at this and I tried the whole D2T and unless you make sure to mix it really well it will ruin you bait. Nothing makes me madder than working on a bait for 2 to 3 hours just to have not mixed the D2T well enough and having sticky spots. Once I got DN it was like a wonderful thing. Just get some bloxygen before you crack the can otherwise you will ruin the whole batch in no time.

If your really impatient, I don't think d2t is very hard to apply. I'll tell you my method, which hasn't yet failed, but I wouldn't call myself an expert.

1. I paint the bait with waterbased acrylic paints

2. Squeeze two pea sized drops of d2t using the syringe onto the bottom of a popcan. Then add 2 drops of laquer thinner.

3. Mix it like crazy using a Popsicle stick. It incorporates bubbles, but i will get rid of those later. Make sure it is thoroughly mixed, but its not that hard.

4. Using a cm wide brush with very fine bristles, I load the brush with epoxy and brush it on, getting rid of the bubbles. Hold the bait in good lighting to make sure the whole thing is covered. The large peas sized amounts of d2t usually coats 2 baits for me, leaving some excess. In my opinion, go as thin as possible, on every coat.

5. I don't have a lure dryer yet, so I turn it by hand for about 15 mins, then clip it too my benchtop. Rotate it every 15 mins for another hour.

6. About 4 hours later, when the d2t is dry but a little soft to touch, I coat again using the same process.

7. Again, dry using the same process.

8. After 24 hours, they are fishable in my experience.

I am also going to switch to DN soon, if that says anything about the time consuming nature of this d2t process.

Edited by dhockey11

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