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I Need Help And Good Advice
4 replies to this topic
Posted 09 February 2011 - 01:46 PM
Ok Folks i have entered into the fine world of making crankbaits. I make them mostly out of balsa and sand them myself. I purchased a aztec a7778 airbrush unused for 150 dollars and i have been using laquer paints such as lifetone and polytranspar. I was wanting to know what peoples opinions are of the laquer paints. I have made a paint booth with good ventilation and i dont mind the smells i wear a good mask. I also want to know is it best to put the lip in after you paint or install it before. And how do you go about without getting the all over the bait. Also Do i have to rotate the baits after i brush on the devcon 2 ton epoxy. I have bought a bunch of paint and it seems like i can never really paint a bait that i really like. It always seems like im missing something. Also can you really thin epoxy with the denatured alcohal and do i need a drying wheel if i do that. Hey if anyone lives in the knoxville,tennessee area and would like to help me out it would be greatly appreciated. I am having to pretty much do all this by trail and error and sometimes it seems like alot of hassle but i like to do it alot. Also is my airbrush sufficient enough. I have a airbrush compressor. Do i need to get a bigger compressor. Man i think about this stuff all the time. Also does anyone else use lacquer paint evryone seems to use the water base. I would think that lacquer is more durable. I need some painting lessons very bad and some advice on the strategy of the whole process. Thanks and God Bless You All. P.S. What is the common weights that one uses for the Belly weights.
Posted 09 February 2011 - 02:32 PM
Welcome to TU and the addiction, be warned, there is no cure. Lots of questions so I have broken them down:
I was wanting to know what peoples opinions are of the lacquer paints. I have made a paint booth with good ventilation and I don’t mind the smells I wear a good mask.
A few builders do use lacquers, but I don’t think it was about the durability, more the colors. I would have said go with water base, but you have taken the right precautions to deal with lacquer. Just make sure you have the correct filter for the job.
I also want to know is it best to put the lip in after you paint or install it before. And how do you go about without getting the all over the bait.
This is personal choice. I think the split is about 50/50.
Also Do I have to rotate the baits after I brush on the devcon 2 ton epoxy.
Yes, you can do it manually, or build a lure turner. Lots written about this.
Also can you really thin epoxy with the denatured alcohol and do I need a drying wheel if I do that.
Thinned epoxy makes a good seal coat, but I don’t think it is a good idea thinning the top coat. The whole point of the epoxy as a top coat, is to take advantage of its self leveling ability. If you thin it, you are going to be dealing with drips and runs and you will have to apply several coats.
Do I need to get a bigger compressor.
What you have now is OK, but if you really get into lure painting, you will probably want a compressor with a tank. These tend to be a lot more noisy, but only kick in occasionally. More consistent pressures especially at higher pressures.
What is the common weights that one uses for the Belly weights.
I pour my own. Lots of different solutions to this question, lead sheet, lead solder, rolled lead sheet, commercial weights cut to suit etc.
We all understand your enthusiasm. Take your time, lots to learn.
Posted 09 February 2011 - 08:15 PM
Dave covered the waterfront very well. I'd just add that I thin D2T with a FEW drops of denatured alcohol when topcoating lures in my cold garage - just enough to get the brushing consistency I like - and it levels out as well as unthinned Devcon does. For undercoating/waterproofing, I thin it more and can coat 5-6 lures before it begins to harden and become a problem to brush. Rotation - yes, I think you will want to build a lure turner, especially if you are brushing thinned coatings on your baits. Devcon is thick enough that you can switch a bait head/tail for 45 minutes to keep it from sagging/running but that's CAN do, not WANT TO do - it's much easier to coat them, clip them on a turner, then go get a cup of coffee!
Lacquer paints seem to have different color values than acrylics (a little more vibrant looking to me), and some of the very nicest paint jobs I've seen were done with lacquers. So if you are set up to use them and like the results, no problemo. You painting will get better and better as you learn to control your airbrush and get experience with it; whether you use lacquer or acrylics is not a factor in that.
Posted 10 February 2011 - 08:10 AM
Thanks for all the good advice. I have become kind of frustrated with it and i want to work every night. But i have taken a day of rest to fix my thoughts. Just running around trying to find everything you need is frustrating enough. I found that it is more expensive than i thought. Once again Thanks and May God Bless You All.
Posted 10 February 2011 - 08:34 AM
That is the beauty of lure building, it does not have to be expensive. A small saw, box cutter knife with the snap off blades, few sheets of sand paper and you have enough to manufacture a body. Even if you have zero tools and materials, you could probably build and finish your first dozen for $25. Lure building is not for everyone, make sure it is for you before you drop the big dollars.