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Question For The Testers Of The Dn2
19 replies to this topic
Posted 12 February 2011 - 10:01 PM
When dipping with DN2 do you have to re-dip the baits exactly at 5 hour intervals or does that mean you just need to wait at least 5 hours between dips? I'm wondering if there are any adhesion issues from one coat to the next if you wait for a longer period?
Posted 13 February 2011 - 12:42 PM
Ben, I'm pretty sure it's "at least", just to allow water in the first coat time to evaporate. However, water borne urethanes like DN2 cure from exposure to oxygen and it will take a thick film longer to cure than a thin film. I used 3 coats in my test and they cured hard in the prescribed period of days - in fact, they were as hard/scratch resistant as they were gonna get 2-3 days before the prescribed period ended.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 02:08 PM
Thanks Bob. That's kind of what I thought, but wanted to make sure. As with anything new I just like to make sure the correct procedure is followed so the top coat is bonding well to itself as well as the lure and that there would be no laminating of layers.
Edited by RayburnGuy, 13 February 2011 - 02:10 PM.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 03:10 PM
Hey Bob & Ben and/or Anyone Else
Any concern on the storage issues we need to follow ? Can I dip my baits straight from the plastic container then just reseal and/or is it best to pour what I need into another jar and dip?
Edited by MikePaintsBaits, 13 February 2011 - 03:10 PM.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 04:31 PM
As long as the baits are clean, I see no reason not to dip into the original container. And since it's water based, not solvent, there are few if any storage issues. If you forget to close the container, you might return the next day to find a skin on the surface.... then again, you might not.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 05:17 PM
could you give an idea of just how hard/scratch resistant the water based stuff is? like compared to Devcon or something similar?
Posted 13 February 2011 - 08:27 PM
Hardness - my opinion is it's "situational". When my test blocks had 3 coats of New DN and had cured for the prescribed number of days, I would say the dry scratch resistance was very similar to a block coated with original formula DN (and that is AT LEAST as good as an epoxy). However, I also think the New DN will eventually re-absorb water when submerged and that softens the coating. So unlike epoxy or solvent based urethanes, durability depends on the circumstance. JMHO.
Edited by BobP, 13 February 2011 - 08:27 PM.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 09:36 PM
Mike, I've only used the DN2 on a couple baits and I've been dipping into the shipping container, but if I run into any problems I will be sure to post them. I also tried sending you a PM, but got the message that you couldn't receive any more PM's. You may need to do some housekeeping.
You said your order of DN2 came in a "plastic container"? I was wondering about that as I remember Dick saying something about the DN2 having some type of reaction with the metal containers, but my order came in one of the metal paint cans just like the original formula came in. I'm also noting a brown crud looking stuff forming around the inside lip of the can. Is this normal or does it have something to do with the metal can mine was shipped in?
Did anyone else's order of DN2 come in metal cans?
Edited by RayburnGuy, 13 February 2011 - 09:36 PM.
Posted 13 February 2011 - 11:13 PM
it depends on what type of DN2 you got. if you got the new moisture cure stuff, it probably comes in a metal can like the old. its the new water based stuff that reacts with metal and is said to be shipped in a plastic can.
Posted 14 February 2011 - 10:53 AM
Thanks All For The Info
Ben , my house keeping is complete , LOL as/well My DN2 , looks pinkish in the plastic container I received , written on the lid is WRTC S-82
Posted 14 February 2011 - 12:11 PM
Sorry for my ignorance but what is DN2. Is that a sealer or a finish coat chemical.
Posted 14 February 2011 - 02:03 PM
DN2 is short for the new Dick Nite clear coat. The new clear won't cure in the can as easily as the original. However, many of us prefer the original over the new for it's moisture resistance after curing.
Posted 14 February 2011 - 02:07 PM
My test sample of DN2 has the brown crud around the lid. Any build up of the original is clear.
Posted 14 February 2011 - 06:46 PM
Thanks guys. I double checked and I have the same thing written on top of the can I received. (WRTC S-82) And when I say "can" I mean a metal can. Must have been a slip up when filling my order. Trying to contact Dick about this and can hopefully figure it out.
Posted 15 February 2011 - 12:59 AM
The "original" Dick Nite topcoat ("DN") is a solvent based moisture cured urethane. "DN2" is a water based oxygen cured urethane. They are quite different products but both are intended for topcoating lures. Dick Nite currently sells 3 topcoating products: the two above plus a "plastic coat" product. There's a ton of threads discussing both of the urethane topcoats if you want to search this forum.
Posted 15 February 2011 - 01:41 AM
Dang! Sounds like some of the S82 (Water Reducible Top Coat - or WRTD) got out in the wild in metal cans... Sorry about that!
It will NOT affect the quality of the finished product, but since it "Pinks" (turns pink) when it comes into contact with steel, we decided to use plastic to keep the confusion and concern levels down. Some of the test samples were packaged in metal prior to our finding this out.
As for the "brown crud" that some have said is building up around the lip of the can, I can only guess that it is rust. I would wipe that out and then transfer the liquid to a glass or plastic container.
Any new S82 (WRTC) is being packed and shipped in the plastic (HDPE) containers.
If anyone paid for S82 and it came in a metal can, if you are concerned with it, I will re-ship in plastic. (There should only be about 4 pints/quarts possibly in the wild.) If it was a sample product, anything you purchase in the future will be in plastic.
Really sorry about this - not sure how it happened, but those of you who have been following this oddessy know that we were running around like heads with our chickens cut off, so anything is possible, I guess.
I would like to request something - the term DN2 is extremely confusing for me and others - since I now have 3 top-coats. Some folks are emailing me and talking about DN2, then when I go their order history I find that they ordered the new moisture cure, which they are calling DN2. Others call the moisture cure DN1 and the WRTC DN2, I even had 2 folks email me asking about the new DN1... Aaaargh! :^)
If we could use either the "S" number (S81 is Moisture Cure, S82 is Water Reducible, S83 is Liquid Plastic), or the type (MC, WRTC, LP), it certainly would keep the confusion at a minimum. I'm getting old and it is getting harder to keep track of these things...
Posted 15 February 2011 - 03:14 AM
Thanks for the reply Dick. I will transfer the top coat into a glass jar as suggested. And if I see any heads running around with their chickens cut off I'll be sure to send them your way.
Posted 15 February 2011 - 12:31 PM
Dick, if you came up with catchy short names for these topcoats from the get-go, we members of the horde wouldn't have run around inventing ways to confuse each other.... or you.
I see a lot of "industry folk" refer to moisture cured urethane as MCU; is WRTC therefore "OCU"? Guess that depends on whether it's a urethane or something else. MC, WRTC and LP are OK with me but sure as shooting, guys reading WRTC will be asking "well, what the heck does that mean?" Most of us can barely type so like to use abbreviations rather than explaining what a Water Reducible Top Coat is (to the extent we even know!).
Posted 15 February 2011 - 03:29 PM
My Bad, as my son would say!
Really doesn't matter as long as we all know which one we are talking about. WRTC could be shortened to WR, since they are all TC (Top-Coats).
Leave it to me to re-confuse an already confused subject!