Dziadzia

Help On Clear Coat

9 posts in this topic

Hello everybody. I am new here. Shortly about fishing – my target is northern pike, my fishing method is jerkbait, and my fishing policy is catch and release. I have been reading a lot to find useful info on how to build a jerkbait/glider. For the time being, this forum is one of the best as such. And here is my challenge. In my country (I am from Lithuania) is no chance to find proper clear coat for hard bait. You are really happy people due to enormous options to choose from. So, my idea is either to use acrylic lacquer that is used for yacht or for parquet. Please, your comments on this are more than appreciated :worship:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello everybody. I am new here. Shortly about fishing – my target is northern pike, my fishing method is jerkbait, and my fishing policy is catch and release. I have been reading a lot to find useful info on how to build a jerkbait/glider. For the time being, this forum is one of the best as such. And here is my challenge. In my country (I am from Lithuania) is no chance to find proper clear coat for hard bait. You are really happy people due to enormous options to choose from. So, my idea is either to use acrylic lacquer that is used for yacht or for parquet. Please, your comments on this are more than appreciated :worship:

Most of the finishes we use here in the U.S. are really designed for coating bars (Envirotex Lite epoxy, for example), wood floors (moisture cured urethanes), or as glues (Devcon Two Ton, other epoxies). If your choice is waterproof and durable, you're using the same criteria as we do. Where durability is important, I have a strong preference for solvent based products because water based products are more vulnerable to water absorption, and when they absorb water, they become much less durable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for your input. The reason why I am talking about water based paint and/or clear coat because of my work space which one situated in my flat. This means that I should keep ambient air as clean as possible. On other hand, more I am searching info about water based clear coat, more I am leaning to solvent based clear coat... in my thoughts… I fully agree that layer and coats should repel water and moister.

Most of the finishes we use here in the U.S. are really designed for coating bars (Envirotex Lite epoxy, for example), wood floors (moisture cured urethanes), or as glues (Devcon Two Ton, other epoxies). If your choice is waterproof and durable, you're using the same criteria as we do. Where durability is important, I have a strong preference for solvent based products because water based products are more vulnerable to water absorption, and when they absorb water, they become much less durable.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You can spray water based paints and heat set them with a hair dryer. If you can, use a epoxy type product as a clear coat. I like to use Devcon 2 ton epoxy and the smell is not bad at all, you could easily use it in your flat. If you don't have Devcon there, look for a similar type product. You want one that dries in 30 to 60 minutes, not the 5 minute versions. The nice thing about Devcon is you can hand turn the lure if you don't have a dryer. Turn for about 20 minutes then set aside to dry.

Jed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I turn lures on a lathe using eastern red cedar. I then dip in a white paint and let dry for a couple days. After air brushing, I use pactra paints and some spray cans from Wally world. The best clearcoat I have used (and I have tried many!) is E-tex. You do need to brush it on with a small bristle brush and after coating I put the lures in a drying box I made that rotates. I usually take my heat gun and blow warm air on them for a few minutes. Hope this helps!Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

Pop R Bl MF.jpg

post-21062-0-08729300-1297866301_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I turn lures on a lathe using eastern red cedar. I then dip in a white paint and let dry for a couple days. After air brushing, I use pactra paints and some spray cans from Wally world. The best clearcoat I have used (and I have tried many!) is E-tex. You do need to brush it on with a small bristle brush and after coating I put the lures in a drying box I made that rotates. I usually take my heat gun and blow warm air on them for a few minutes. Hope this helps!Pop R Bl MF.jpg

People, here and there, you are helping a lot. I am hungry and swollowing every piece of infromation... Thx

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Jed nailed it. If you are working in a flat and there is a concern about air quality, a slow cure epoxy is a great choice. Epoxy doesn't out-gas volatile solvents while hardening and it makes a very durable topcoat when brushed on lures. However, it will drip and sag unless you rotate the lure long enough for it to reach a non-liquid state. That varies according to the epoxy chosen. Here are some popular epoxies used for lure topcoating here in the U.S. They tend to break down into 3 categories: Glues, Pour-On Finishes, and Rod Thread Epoxies. They, or similar products, may be available in your area. Almost all epoxies harden fully in about 24 hours but how long they take to reach a non-sag state varies according to their formulation. All of these can be brushed on and their slow cure time allows the epoxy to level out to an attractive finish. Quick cure "5 minute" epoxies do not brush well, do not level out, and will turn brown quickly.

Devcon Two Ton - a slow cure epoxy glue. Rotate for about 45 minutes, hardens to touch in several hours. The fastest epoxy with a viscosity low enough to brush on a lure. Other slow cure glue epoxies advertised as "30 minute" epoxies may also work.

Pour-On table finishes, also sold for decoupage crafting. Contains some solvent. Rotate several hours. Low viscosity, often requires multiple coats to build up a sufficiently thick coating on a lure. Envirotex Lite and Nu-Lustre 55 are examples.

Fishing rod thread epoxies - Flexcoat, etc Many brands available. Rotate 1-2 hours. These also usually contain some solvent.

Do a search in this forum for more specific info on these brands and how to apply them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many German lure builders use epoxy sold by this company , ......you can obtain a choice of different resins and hardeners to achieve different curing times .

Since I do not have a rotator , I go for the fastest hardener , it sets within about half-an-hour , ....I'd only have to flip over the lures in my drying rack a few times , ........people using rotators go for slower curing stuff , as it most likely provides more even and thicker coats .

http://www.bootsservice-behnke.de/

Finnish builders use a kind of concrete laquer for covering concrete floors and walls , ......but I do not have detailed info about sources nor brands .

good luck , diemai :yay:

Edited by diemai

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many German lure builders use epoxy sold by this company , ......you can obtain a choice of different resins and hardeners to achieve different curing times .

Since I do not have a rotator , I go for the fastest hardener , it sets within about half-an-hour , ....I'd only have to flip over the lures in my drying rack a few times , ........people using rotators go for slower curing stuff , as it most likely provides more even and thicker coats .

http://www.bootsservice-behnke.de/

Finnish builders use a kind of concrete laquer for covering concrete floors and walls , ......but I do not have detailed info about sources nor brands .

good luck , diemai :yay:

Hi, Diemai... Vielen Dank. Das ist wirklich gutes Stück von Informationen... As well as thanks Google translator :worship:

Regarding clearcoat. For the time being I am dealing theoretically with the following applicants to be my clearcoat in the nearest feature.

The first one is – so, I found that our ladies use Jeweler's grade, self doming, crystal clear ICE Resin. http://www.iceresin.com Has anyone experience coating hardbait with ICE Resin stuff? If so, what was the result especially in the connection with the acrylic water based paint?

The next one - I have done search and found the following available in my motherland: <BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">

http://www.reichhold.com/en/composites-product-detail.aspx?pid=1078&list=all<BR style="mso-special-character: line-break">Has anyone dealt with Polylite 32032-20 clear coating hardbait? If so, what was your result? Before to spent money, does anyone have experience how this Polylite 32032-20 is shaking hands with acrylic water based paint? Here is fragment from description of Polylite 32032-20 ‘…Castings made with POLYLITE® 32032-00 have the same refractive index as glass. Suggested applications include decorative castings, tabletops, objects d'art, and biological encapsulations…’

</SPAN>Sharing of your experience is valuable source of information. Thanks, Ed

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now