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Lure Drying Wheel Top Coat Application
6 replies to this topic
Posted 17 February 2011 - 10:54 PM
I am new to this site and hope I'm posting in the right spot. Here is my dilemma. I have a drying wheel that will hold up to eight lures/plugs at a time. The problem I am having is getting the lures coated with a top coat then placed onto the drying wheel. I currently have alligator type clips attached to 10" plywood wheels. As you can imagine it can become a daunting task. Should I attach them to the wheel first then top coat or top coat then attach them to the wheel? Any suggestions on the process or modification suggestions to the drying wheel would be greatly appreciated!
Posted 18 February 2011 - 12:28 AM
I have a similar drying wheel. The only difference being that my lures are held with wire hooks and rubber bands. My drying wheel has a switch mounted on it to allow for easily turning the power on and off. I coat one lure at a time and place them on the wheel as they are top coated. Turning the drying wheel off long enough to put a new lure on only takes a few seconds and this amount of time is not long enough for the top coat on the lure already on the wheel to start sagging.
Posted 18 February 2011 - 12:46 AM
If the clips are firmly attached to slightly tapered dowel pegs, then after top coating, they can be pushed into a hole, with a friction fit. The dowel gives you a convenient handle to hold while coating too. This is how my drying wheel works and I have had no problems so far.
Posted 18 February 2011 - 08:02 AM
I have a ferris wheel type drying wheel, with 14" diameter wheels, and two circular attacment rings, with room for eight lures at a time.
I always mount my lures onto the wheel before I coat them.
If I am mounting more than four, I load the inner ring first, and coat them one at a time, moving the wheel as needed to get access to all faces.
Then I mount the outer ring lures, and coat them the same way.
I typically use Etex or Nu Lustre, so I rotate them for at least four hours, and usually all night.
I am careful not to wear long sleeve shirts. Epoxy comes off the skin with denatured alcohol much easier than it comes out of clothing, and bare skin does much less damage to a wet lure if it hits it.
Posted 18 February 2011 - 10:33 AM
Thanks for input it will help out. I was always wondering if there was a better way and from the post it looks like there is. Thanks again!
Posted 18 February 2011 - 02:15 PM
My system is much like vodkaman's with a few exceptions.
I use cheap chopsticks, taper the ends and attach an alligator clip. I placed a section of female velcro on the other end of the chopstick.
I use a large diameter foam drum wrapped in female velcro to attach the chopstick to the drum.
It works pretty well. I have a long dowel that is driven by the rotisserie motor - I made a typical hook & rubberband system that lives closer to the motor with this foam drum at the very end of the dowel, on the other side of my dowel support. So I can use either or both. I find that I use the drum more than the hook & band system.
Posted 21 February 2011 - 07:59 AM
Her's my drying wheel, I put the bait on a piece of electrical tube we use here in Holland.
On the wheel there are mounted clips where the tube fit in.
After putting on the epoxy I just clamp it in and let the wheel do the turns.