bass50

Uv Cure Epoxy

14 posts in this topic

I have gotten a couple free samples from epoxies etc. If you make it work please come back and let me know. I have tried a couple different times with two different lights but neither of them were strong enough to make the epoxy cure quickly.

RM

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Is this a clear UV epoxy? Used a bondo UV cure for a fiberglass repair several years ago and it worked fine, but it was a putty type goop with strands of glass in it.

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RIVERMAN I HAVE TRIED THEIR EPOXIES ALSO COULD NOT GET THEM TO CURE JUST LOOKING TO SEE IF ANYBODY ELSE HAD ANY IDEAS

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RIVERMAN I HAVE TRIED THEIR EPOXIES ALSO COULD NOT GET THEM TO CURE JUST LOOKING TO SEE IF ANYBODY ELSE HAD ANY IDEAS

In my case, I think the reason they would not cure is because I wasn't using a powerful enough UV source. Find some powerful UV lights which will likely be quite spendy and I think you will have the answer. I spent some time looking at UV cure epoxy at one time and eventually found a source for a good light and it was about $1200 as I recall. The light was inside a container about the size and shape of a 50 gallon drum with lights on all sides. Spend some time searching and you will find some good light sources but many are either way out of our price range or used for very small industrial projects. I still think UV cure epoxy is the answer for us lure builders, virtually zero fumes and instant cure. We just need to find a very UV light sensitive epoxy that will cure when exposed to a black light for example.

RM

Edited by RiverMan

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Interesting info. Assume the Top Coat product would have the most application for baits. Wonder how/if you would have to turn the baits?

Is the Rock still warming up, or did you get part of the front we did up here in KC metro? Understood the bite was starting to pick up and move past the float & fly nonsense.

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In my case, I think the reason they would not cure is because I wasn't using a powerful enough UV source. Find some powerful UV lights which will likely be quite spendy and I think you will have the answer. I spent some time looking at UV cure epoxy at one time and eventually found a source for a good light and it was about $1200 as I recall. The light was inside a container about the size and shape of a 50 gallon drum with lights on all sides. Spend some time searching and you will find some good light sources but many are either way out of our price range or used for very small industrial projects. I still think UV cure epoxy is the answer for us lure builders, virtually zero fumes and instant cure. We just need to find a very UV light sensitive epoxy that will cure when exposed to a black light for example.

RM

UV cure is critical to the wave length of the light. Does it state on the container what the wave length of the light needs to be (assuming you still have it)?

I have an idea cooking.

Dave

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UV cure is critical to the wave length of the light. Does it state on the container what the wave length of the light needs to be (assuming you still have it)?

I have an idea cooking.

Dave

Dave, I tried a blacklight first because the epoxy source told me it would work.....it didn't. The epoxy would only get partially cured. I then bought a small lamp that has three lights in it to be used for tanning and had the same results. As I recall the spectrum of light I was using was partially in the recommend range but was not a good match.

BTW, here are some bullets from the link Hughesy posted, does this sound perfect or what? I like the zero VOC part and also the "cures instantly" :

a hardness rating of greater than 8H @ 750 grams, Admiralty's Ultra Hard Coat is the ultimate UV cured coating for a final high gloss or satin sheen application that demands a scratch resistant surface.

Ultra Hard Coat can take punishment from almost any sharp object... such as keys and tools without leaving a mark.

Typically used as the last coat over Admiralty Gloss or Satin Varnish.

It is applied at 0.001" (1mil) thickness... one gallon covers 1608 square feet.

Ultra Hard Coat is the "last coat" as nothing will adhere to it... which also makes it the perfect Anti-Graffiti product.

Cures instantly at the speed of light... on-demand.

• Nothing like it is available elsewhere.

• Zero VOCs.

• Cures at the speed of light!

As you can see, the cost of the lights would kill us.

Jed

Edited by RiverMan

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Jed, the specs certainly make good reading. The really annoying thing is that they quoted the price as per foot of 25 micron coating and then a range, between $0.07 and $0.13 per square foot and you have to phone for a proper quote. I multiplied these numbers up and it is between $31.11 and $57.89 per litre. It seems a bit pricy, but you can coat 22 x 3" lures with a square foot, so in fact it is $0.01 for 3 coats or 3000 lures from a litre.

In reality, 25 microns is going to show every single fault and scratch, as there is not enough epoxy to level out as in the traditional epoxy application. You are unlikely to be able to apply this epoxy in thicker coats because in order to apply 25 micron coats, the epoxy is probably the consistency of water.

The other annoying thing, is that they do not quote the light wave length required for curing, so you are committed to using their curing equipment, which is extremely expensive.

In conclusion, I do not see this as our solution, JMHO.

Dave

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looking for a dealer or a supply house to buy i have the uv lights

Look for UV cure surfboard epoxy, cures in 20 minutes in direct sunlight and less time under UV lamps that are not that expensive. I almost made the jump to it a few years back as production was killing me. Now I cant be bothered!

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Look for UV cure surfboard epoxy, cures in 20 minutes in direct sunlight and less time under UV lamps that are not that expensive. I almost made the jump to it a few years back as production was killing me. Now I cant be bothered!

Would that be a brush on, dip on, wipe/rub on? Assume it couldn't be spray on due to chance of curing inside a gun.

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Would that be a brush on, dip on, wipe/rub on? Assume it couldn't be spray on due to chance of curing inside a gun.

Was told by manufacturer that dipping or application by brush would be most effective

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