smallmouthchaser

Clear Coats For Custom Painted Crankbaits

22 posts in this topic

I have just started painting crankbaits and i have heard of all the different clears that people use and right now im using the Devcon 2 part epoxy. I have heard some good things about a DN clear which i think stands for "Dick Nite" im not sure. I was wondering if any body could help me out with some info on where to get it (DN)and i have heard that you dip the bait into it and i was wanting to know if thats how its done and if there is any other way to do it. Also is there any better 2 part epoxy than the devcon that is thinner and better. Auto grade clear i have heard is the best but im only coating 1 or 2 lures at a time so is there any auto grade clears i could use without much waste in doing 1 or 2 baits at a time. Thanks,Ronnie.

P.S. Can you use the DN for only 1 or 2 baits without very much waste. How does it work.. 2 Part?

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I have just started painting crankbaits and i have heard of all the different clears that people use and right now im using the Devcon 2 part epoxy. I have heard some good things about a DN clear which i think stands for "Dick Nite" im not sure. I was wondering if any body could help me out with some info on where to get it (DN)and i have heard that you dip the bait into it and i was wanting to know if thats how its done and if there is any other way to do it. Also is there any better 2 part epoxy than the devcon that is thinner and better. Auto grade clear i have heard is the best but im only coating 1 or 2 lures at a time so is there any auto grade clears i could use without much waste in doing 1 or 2 baits at a time. Thanks,Ronnie.

P.S. Can you use the DN for only 1 or 2 baits without very much waste. How does it work.. 2 Part?

RONNIE,

BOB SMITH EPOXY .... 20 min FINISH CURE Good stuff! Goes on thin and you really do have 20 mins of working time.. unlike devcon..where they tell you you got 30mins but you really only have 2.

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DN has 3 different top coats now as they just came out with 2 new ones. The one referred to most is the moisture cured urethane which is a great product if you can figure out how to store it. Personally for the $40 I spent on it... I wasted half because it cured in the 3 jars I put it in even using bloxygen. The people that use it and know how to make it last love it. I know the lures that were coated with it are rock hard and almost perfect. Personally tho it was a pain for me and I dont use it anymore. do a search on it.... more info than you can read in 6 months out there.

Epoxy....I use 2 different ones.

1. D2T.... I use this for a sealer thinned with denatured alchy. work time is about 5-10 mins to get it on a lure and on the turner. sets up pretty fast and can be handled in 24 hrs. Lure turner is recommended but not a must.

2. Envirotex Lite or Etex... This I use for my top coat... its more finicky and harder to use than D2T but a lot thinner and leaves a great finish... lure turner is a must ! handle time 48-72 hours

3. A lot of other epoxies will work like the one the Rook mentions above. Another popular one is Flexcoat. Just remember with epoxy its wise to invest in a turner!

Auto clear is the best in my opinion. I usually wait until I have 5 or 6 baits painted and then mix up a really small batch and spray it on. I use a clear pill cup like you would get at a hospital or on nyquil to measure it in really small batches. I dont have much waste but the down side is you ABSOLUTELY need a respirator and really well ventilated area. I have to wait for decent weather and spray outside while wearing my respirator.

There are a lot of other top coats all of which have their + and – so its really user preference as to what you like best. I recommend you using the search feature as all these topics have been discussed in great detail already.

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Thanks for the info Rookie...Where can i get the Bob Smith epoxy? Thanks

RONNIE,

BOB SMITH EPOXY .... 20 min FINISH CURE Good stuff! Goes on thin and you really do have 20 mins of working time.. unlike devcon..where they tell you you got 30mins but you really only have 2.

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Thanks matt for the information..I have heard about the lure turners and some one said to get a rotisseire motor but i would only be turning one at a time or two..can i turn only one or two and where do i get a turner besides making one from a rotisseire motor..I have thought about maybe rigging up a variable speed drill some how to turn 1 at a time. what you think? Thanks,Ronnie.

DN has 3 different top coats now as they just came out with 2 new ones. The one referred to most is the moisture cured urethane which is a great product if you can figure out how to store it. Personally for the $40 I spent on it... I wasted half because it cured in the 3 jars I put it in even using bloxygen. The people that use it and know how to make it last love it. I know the lures that were coated with it are rock hard and almost perfect. Personally tho it was a pain for me and I dont use it anymore. do a search on it.... more info than you can read in 6 months out there.

Epoxy....I use 2 different ones.

1. D2T.... I use this for a sealer thinned with denatured alchy. work time is about 5-10 mins to get it on a lure and on the turner. sets up pretty fast and can be handled in 24 hrs. Lure turner is recommended but not a must.

2. Envirotex Lite or Etex... This I use for my top coat... its more finicky and harder to use than D2T but a lot thinner and leaves a great finish... lure turner is a must ! handle time 48-72 hours

3. A lot of other epoxies will work like the one the Rook mentions above. Another popular one is Flexcoat. Just remember with epoxy its wise to invest in a turner!

Auto clear is the best in my opinion. I usually wait until I have 5 or 6 baits painted and then mix up a really small batch and spray it on. I use a clear pill cup like you would get at a hospital or on nyquil to measure it in really small batches. I dont have much waste but the down side is you ABSOLUTELY need a respirator and really well ventilated area. I have to wait for decent weather and spray outside while wearing my respirator.

There are a lot of other top coats all of which have their + and – so its really user preference as to what you like best. I recommend you using the search feature as all these topics have been discussed in great detail already.

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Just be careful with those smelly solvent based clears. I learned the hard way, by getting skunked, that many smells can cause a fish to turn away at the last second. I actually saw some bass do this. I use a waterborne clear just to be safe. Most epoxies should be fine as long as they are fully mixed and cured, so that you don't have any smelly unhardened stuff remaining.

"Some studies have suggested that bass are turned off if they detect sun block lotions, bug repellents, tobacco, household detergents, motor oils, fuels, and other unnatural chemicals that may be on your hands, and get transferred onto your line and lure when you touch them." - Russ Bassdozer

John

Aiden James Lures

http://AJLures.com

Edited by AJLures.com

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I have turned lures using a drill. You have to keep an eye on the drill though. Some drills just cannot take the strain of slow turning and over heat.

With the body inline with the chuck, you can allow it to spin faster than you would with a wheel. I turned mine at 60 - 100rpm and they turned out just fine.

Setting up the drill can be a bit fiddly, especially starting the drill. It can take a lot of adjusting to get the slow revs. I found the best way was to set it up without the lure, using tape or clamps or what ever it takes, then unplug from the wall socket. This way, when you plug in, the revs are already set. You may have to turn the chuck by hand to get it started, it all depends on your drill, these are my experiences with a cheap drill. Also, if you set it too slow, it can stall on you, so never leave it alone until you have confidence in the setup.

In the mean time, keep your eyes open for a cheap, slow motor. Building a turner is very easy, can be done from scraps and can be built in an hour or less, depending on the design. There must be 50 designs posted on this site.

Dave

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Thanks john i really didnt think about this but i should have because i have always been really careful about what i get on my hands when im on my way to the boat ramp. I am very cautious with Gasoline and oil and everything cause i have heard that a bass can smell 1 part per million of gas. I will for sure be really careful about the clear i use cause it may look really good but it might not catch fish because of the odor from the clear. You say you use a waterbourne clear? What is the brand name and how does it work i have never heard of it? I have used baking soda water before to remove odors from my hands and a special soap for washing your hands in the lake. It was safe to use in the lake without contaminets. I cant remember what kind it was or where i got it from i would like to start using it again and maybe even wash the crankbaits with it to be sure and help with confidence in the bait. Would spraying the scents and oils such as"Bang" or "Real Craw" damage the clear coat? Thanks,Ronnie.

Just be careful with those smelly solvent based clears. I learned the hard way, by getting skunked, that many smells can cause a fish to turn away at the last second. I actually saw some bass do this. I use a waterborne clear just to be safe. Most epoxies should be fine as long as they are fully mixed and cured, so that you don't have any smelly unhardened stuff remaining.

"Some studies have suggested that bass are turned off if they detect sun block lotions, bug repellents, tobacco, household detergents, motor oils, fuels, and other unnatural chemicals that may be on your hands, and get transferred onto your line and lure when you touch them." - Russ Bassdozer

John

Aiden James Lures

http://AJLures.com

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Ok thanks Dave for the info i will look on here and find a design and try and make me one..So i need to try and find a motor that turns about 50 RPM's? Is there a perfect RPM speed that does the best and if so what is it? Thanks,Ronnie.

I have turned lures using a drill. You have to keep an eye on the drill though. Some drills just cannot take the strain of slow turning and over heat.

With the body inline with the chuck, you can allow it to spin faster than you would with a wheel. I turned mine at 60 - 100rpm and they turned out just fine.

Setting up the drill can be a bit fiddly, especially starting the drill. It can take a lot of adjusting to get the slow revs. I found the best way was to set it up without the lure, using tape or clamps or what ever it takes, then unplug from the wall socket. This way, when you plug in, the revs are already set. You may have to turn the chuck by hand to get it started, it all depends on your drill, these are my experiences with a cheap drill. Also, if you set it too slow, it can stall on you, so never leave it alone until you have confidence in the setup.

In the mean time, keep your eyes open for a cheap, slow motor. Building a turner is very easy, can be done from scraps and can be built in an hour or less, depending on the design. There must be 50 designs posted on this site.

Dave

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Ok thanks Dave for the info i will look on here and find a design and try and make me one..So i need to try and find a motor that turns about 50 RPM's? Is there a perfect RPM speed that does the best and if so what is it? Thanks,Ronnie.

For a wheel, you are looking for anything between 2 and 10 rpm, 5 or 6rpm being the most popular. The 50rpm is only for the drill with the body inline.

If there is a perfect speed, then we haven't figured it out yet. All you are trying to do, is to stop the epoxy running to one end of the lure, by keeping it turning.

Dave

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Thanks john i really didnt think about this but i should have because i have always been really careful about what i get on my hands when im on my way to the boat ramp. I am very cautious with Gasoline and oil and everything cause i have heard that a bass can smell 1 part per million of gas. I will for sure be really careful about the clear i use cause it may look really good but it might not catch fish because of the odor from the clear. You say you use a waterbourne clear? What is the brand name and how does it work i have never heard of it? I have used baking soda water before to remove odors from my hands and a special soap for washing your hands in the lake. It was safe to use in the lake without contaminets. I cant remember what kind it was or where i got it from i would like to start using it again and maybe even wash the crankbaits with it to be sure and help with confidence in the bait. Would spraying the scents and oils such as"Bang" or "Real Craw" damage the clear coat? Thanks,Ronnie.

We actually just dip ours in the Component Systems Seal-Coat Lure and Jig Finish. It holds up well enough for topwater, and the Bang scents don't seem to bother it.

John

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I have never heard of a Bass or any other predater fish sniffing a lure. Thats why they call it a reaction strike. new to me though.

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I have never heard of a Bass or any other predater fish sniffing a lure. Thats why they call it a reaction strike. new to me though.

Do a google search for "bass scents" and read the articles from the pros. I have personally seen a bass react to a bait and then react again to something else right before the strike. It may be more taste than smell. Hungry bass will not eat something that tastes or smells like paint.

I agree with Mike Iaconelli who says "topwater fits perfectly into a category that I call a "two for bait." It represents something very natural which is either dying, struggling, or moving across the surface. It appeals to both the reaction and hunger type strikes of a bass at the same time. THIS IS KEY!" The full article is at http://www.bassresource.com/fishing/topwater_bass_fishing_baits.html

John

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I havent had any issues with the smell of the solvent based urethanes if that what you are talking about AJ. Usually by the time the lure has fully cured and is ready to use any scent has dicipated that I can tell. As for Epoxy they are pretty much odor free as you can get. I would be catuious of waterbased urethanes though as SOME *cough* *cough*....MOST do not hold up well to prolonged water exposure. The new DN water based one seems to be an exception and I do not have any experience with the one AJ uses.

Just my 2C!

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I have personally seen a 8 yr old kid hook a cigerette butt from off of the grounf onto a hook and catch a 6lb bass on it. I have also saw Wd40 catch the shit out of some bass.. I dont think and epoxy smell on a "reaction" bait will have much to do with the strike. I'm sure it's possible but not enough for me to worry.

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Thanks for the info Rookie...Where can i get the Bob Smith epoxy? Thanks

Look it up on the Net Ronnie and you will find a dealer in your area..

I get mine at a local hobby shop in my town..but I didnt know they had it until I did the search and found them.

I think Hobby Town USA carries it.. not sure... Sometimes its not called Bob Smith.. Basically Bob makes it and other stores put their own label on it... So it could be called something else and still be BOB Smith.. if that makes sense.

20 MIN FINISH CURE ... they make a 30 MIN Finish Cure... and its not the same stuff.. its more like devcon.. YOU WANT THE 20 MIN!!! TRUST ME.

The Rookie

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I have personally seen a 8 yr old kid hook a cigerette butt from off of the grounf onto a hook and catch a 6lb bass on it. I have also saw Wd40 catch the shit out of some bass.. I dont think and epoxy smell on a "reaction" bait will have much to do with the strike. I'm sure it's possible but not enough for me to worry.

WD40 is a great fish attractant! Too bad it is toxic. And, properly mixed and cured epoxy is 100% odor free. The mistake that I made was using a cheap solvent based urethane on a lure and putting it in my tackle box before it was cured. I opened the box on the lake, and it smelled like a paint booth! That bad day of fishing inspired me to do my own research on scents.

not trying to stir things up, just trying to help

John

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Look it up on the Net Ronnie and you will find a dealer in your area..

I get mine at a local hobby shop in my town..but I didnt know they had it until I did the search and found them.

I think Hobby Town USA carries it.. not sure... Sometimes its not called Bob Smith.. Basically Bob makes it and other stores put their own label on it... So it could be called something else and still be BOB Smith.. if that makes sense.

20 MIN FINISH CURE ... they make a 30 MIN Finish Cure... and its not the same stuff.. its more like devcon.. YOU WANT THE 20 MIN!!! TRUST ME.

The Rookie

This is the item number for the 20 minute........BSI210

Just google the name and you will see where to buy it.

Hey Rookie, do you use this stuff as is, or do you thin it at with denatured alcohol?

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Thanks Rookie for all the information it has been really helpful..I have bought a bait from you to, A Mean Mcclain and i havent used it yet but im going to any day now. The water temps are coming up fast here on Smith Mt and they are going to start chewing any day now.I willlet ya know how i do on your crankbait.

Ronnie

This is the item number for the 20 minute........BSI210

Just google the name and you will see where to buy it.

Hey Rookie, do you use this stuff as is, or do you thin it at with denatured alcohol?

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Hey Rookie i just ordered some of the 20 min epoxy Finish -Cure. I got 4 1/2 ozs for $ 9.25 and free shipping from( A main Hobbies.com) now i just need a turner and i will be set up. Thanks Again.quote name='152nd Street Baits' timestamp='1299117540' post='162267']

This is the item number for the 20 minute........BSI210

Just google the name and you will see where to buy it.

Hey Rookie, do you use this stuff as is, or do you thin it at with denatured alcohol?

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RONNIE,

BOB SMITH EPOXY .... 20 min FINISH CURE Good stuff! Goes on thin and you really do have 20 mins of working time.. unlike devcon..where they tell you you got 30mins but you really only have 2.

I ended up ordering the Bob Smith 20 minute Finish Cure from a local hobby shop. WOW, this stuff is a dream! I found it very easy to mix just eye balling the equal amounts just like D2T. it has very low odor, just like D2T. That's where i found the similarities end. With D2T I was only able to clear two baits at a time and that was thinning with denatured alcohol. Finish Cure goes on thin and has better flow properties than D2T. I have used it six different times and find i can do 6 baits, just taking it easy and taking my time. It appears to dry a little harder than D2T by the way i have been clearing out the hook eyes. I have not had any problems with bubbles and all that I find neccesary is one coat! Thank you, Rookie!

Edited by 152nd Street Baits

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RONNIE,

BOB SMITH EPOXY .... 20 min FINISH CURE Good stuff! Goes on thin and you really do have 20 mins of working time.. unlike devcon..where they tell you you got 30mins but you really only have 2.

Rookie, have you been using this for a while? I'd like to know if it yellows like devcon on light colored baits or if it stays clear longer because of the slower cure time?

Thanks for the info, Billy

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