Brent R

Dn And Bloxygen

5 posts in this topic

I am looking to try DN and was told to use bloxygen so it would not cure in the can......but some of you say that even this does not work...Can anyone give any advice on this, sure could use your help. Thanks for your time.

DTL

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I am looking to try DN and was told to use bloxygen so it would not cure in the can......but some of you say that even this does not work...Can anyone give any advice on this, sure could use your help. Thanks for your time.

DTL

I think it all depends on how fast you use it. I use bloxygen with my DN and it has worked great for me. Just don't skimp on the bloxygen it will come back to bite you. I justed order a couple of the 2oz to make sure it works good and this stuff is awesome for coating your lures. I would open the container and pour a little in a plastic box for like wire nuts that I got and just use that to brush a thin coat on. Right after I get done putting some in the container to use I take a piece of plastic wrap and put it over the container and then just set the lid on top. Then I take the bloxygen and spray about 1 to 2 seconds worth in the container and seal it up as fast as you can. That has worked out great for me. If you are getting a bigger order like pint, quart, etc. then get a mason jar and do the same thing or use teflon tape around the top to seal it in better and then use 2 seconds minimum of spray and then seal it up. I tried to use D2T but if you dont mix it really well then your lure gets ruined. You can also dip your lures in the DN my buddy does that and he loves it I just like to feel the detail on the bait if it has some. Hope this helps.

Tim

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Thanks for the info Tim........2oz just doesn't seem like a lot. I think i'm going to try several products and check out the results....I've heard good things about several products. If anyone has anymore info i would welcome any comments....

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Assume you're buying the solvent based moisture cured polyurethane DN and not the water borne or the plastic coat topcoats. That's the one that needs help to keep from curing. I order DN by the quart and am still working on the qt I got a year ago. First, don't store the DN in the can it came in. Decant it into several jars that have tops that seal really well and which you can reseal many times. My current favorites are Ball canning jars. The smaller the surface area of DN exposed to air, the better and the less air in the storage container, the better. Buy the Bloxygen and use it religiously - a brief squirt of gas into every jar, every time you close it. Other gases like nitrogen welding gas may work but I haven't tried them.

I dip baits exclusively. A couple of tips on that: dip them, take them out and don't hold the baits over the jar to let excess drip back into the container. Just hang them up immediately and all the excess will drip off the tail of the bait. Don't rotate the baits as you would if using epoxy. Letting it drip back into the jar after exposure to atmospheric moisture is not good. The DN on the bait immediately begins to collect moisture. The drips that fall back into the jar may encourage the DN to begin curing, and once it does, it's ALL toast. Yep, you will "waste" some DN that way. Be content that if you "saved" all that DN, you would just be wasting it because the whole quart would probably cure in the can prematurely. It's still very cost competitive with epoxy or auto clear coats.

Yes, the moisture cured DN is a pain to store. But it's fast, easy, and the best crankbait topcoat I've ever used.

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Assume you're buying the solvent based moisture cured polyurethane DN and not the water borne or the plastic coat topcoats. That's the one that needs help to keep from curing. I order DN by the quart and am still working on the qt I got a year ago. First, don't store the DN in the can it came in. Decant it into several jars that have tops that seal really well and which you can reseal many times. My current favorites are Ball canning jars. The smaller the surface area of DN exposed to air, the better and the less air in the storage container, the better. Buy the Bloxygen and use it religiously - a brief squirt of gas into every jar, every time you close it. Other gases like nitrogen welding gas may work but I haven't tried them.

I dip baits exclusively. A couple of tips on that: dip them, take them out and don't hold the baits over the jar to let excess drip back into the container. Just hang them up immediately and all the excess will drip off the tail of the bait. Don't rotate the baits as you would if using epoxy. Letting it drip back into the jar after exposure to atmospheric moisture is not good. The DN on the bait immediately begins to collect moisture. The drips that fall back into the jar may encourage the DN to begin curing, and once it does, it's ALL toast. Yep, you will "waste" some DN that way. Be content that if you "saved" all that DN, you would just be wasting it because the whole quart would probably cure in the can prematurely. It's still very cost competitive with epoxy or auto clear coats.

Yes, the moisture cured DN is a pain to store. But it's fast, easy, and the best crankbait topcoat I've ever used.

Excellent instruction. We use nirogen in our shop for all containers of top-coat. Even have it on the top of the TC waiting to ship. Anything that doesn't absorb moisture and is heavier than air will work. Bloxygen works well, I am told, but we use enough I simply got a bottle of nitrogen from the welders supply and regulate a bit onto the top of anything that is ever opened.

Thanks for the good commentary, Bob!

Dick

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