nedyarb

Lc 2.5 Knockoffs Will Not Swim?

14 posts in this topic

First off, my name is Rob, and I have been lurking for a fews months and really appreciate all the help fellow members here have offered. So thanks everyone. But my question is about the LC 2.5 knockoffs from predator baits. I bought 5 of them painted em up and noneswim even close to normal. They come in about 5 feet and stat going in circle. Do I need to do something or is it the lure. I did notice predator baits is not selling any right now while they change the lip style. Any suggestions? Thanks Rob

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I dont have any suggestions, but your right. They dont swim worth a crap. Ive caught a few fish off of them but its nothing like normal. One actually sank.

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First off, my name is Rob, and I have been lurking for a fews months and really appreciate all the help fellow members here have offered. So thanks everyone. But my question is about the LC 2.5 knockoffs from predator baits. I bought 5 of them painted em up and noneswim even close to normal. They come in about 5 feet and stat going in circle. Do I need to do something or is it the lure. I did notice predator baits is not selling any right now while they change the lip style. Any suggestions? Thanks Rob

Did you fit the hooks for the swim test?

Without the additional ballast of the hooks, the lure would be unbalanced and this could explain the spiral. I could understand if one lure was a dud, with a misaligned lip etc, but all five seems a bit odd.

Dave

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I did have the hooks on em. Sould I try one of the oval swivels on the line tie? Every other lureworked fine, except the 2.5, I don't get it.

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It is strange because Predator have a fairly good reputation. I have never held one, as I only build my own.

Is that the lure with the screw plug around the belly hanger. If it is, it sounds like there is no weight inside, or not enough. You could try adding larger hooks, but that is not a good solution.

Other than that, contact predator and see what they have to say.

Dave

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You just very well may have run into a bad batch of (KO's) , I use to buy them a few years back , I had too many issues with the way they would swim. & the people I paint for do not want KO's. I know a lot of people cannot afford the top of the line brand name baits & if the KO's work for them so be it.

Mike (The Rookie Painter)

Edited by MikePaintsBaits

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JMHO, life is too short and catching fish is too important to waste time on plastic crankbaits that don't work. Unpainted plastic cranks are SUPPOSED to work properly when painted and hung with appropriate hardware - but you are finding out they don't always do that. I doubt putting oval line ties on them will do anything. Probably the only thing that will is to drill the baits and try varying the ballast weight to see if that's the problem - and that fix depends on whether the baits are otherwise "straight" and were not warped or misaligned when the halves were joined at the factory. It's worth checking to see if all the ballast is free inside the baits and whether they all have the same number and positions for the ballast balls.

Predator is good about customer support. I'd contact him about the problem and see what he proposes.

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Does the lure run right or left before it starts to roll? Have you tried adjusting the line tie by bending it right or left? Musky Glenn

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I have tried adjusting the line tie....and the baits are the ones with the screw in bottom. 4 of them had 3 large bbs, and one I put in some lead shot. But I just painted over the screw in so I may have to unscrew em all and try em with more weight. Thanks for the input. Rob

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Ok, I put a split ring on and that seems too have solved the problem. But, if anyone has any more advise please let me know. I live in Omaha so the temp is 32 and the wind is blowing about 20 mph. So needless to say I only threw the bait about 5 times and got back in the truck......but here's my setup. I was using 50 lb power pro. Photofinished lure, size 6 trebles and have 3 coats of etex. Would the power pro have a huge effect on the lure action? Thanks

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Ok, I put a split ring on and that seems too have solved the problem. But, if anyone has any more advise please let me know. I live in Omaha so the temp is 32 and the wind is blowing about 20 mph. So needless to say I only threw the bait about 5 times and got back in the truck......but here's my setup. I was using 50 lb power pro. Photofinished lure, size 6 trebles and have 3 coats of etex. Would the power pro have a huge effect on the lure action? Thanks

I have painted a bunch of those and occasionally I get a few that won't track. I fixed a couple by gluing one of the big balls that are inside to the top to the screw in part so the ballast won't move around. Also make sure you screw in all the way so the o ring doesn't show. I don't use that much clear, I usually dip twice in DN which would be maybe one coat of Etex. You definitely have to tie onto a split ring, very few baits run true tied to the ring itself. As far as your line, braid does float so crank baits don't work as well with it as mono or flouro. Those baits also work much better at a slow to moderate retrieve, they always flip over at high speed. I use them over submerged grass or shallow flats and work them around rocks and weed slowly.

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Bobv, I did notice that it worked if reeled in really slow. But it was hard to reel that slow.....

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Ok, I put a split ring on and that seems too have solved the problem. But, if anyone has any more advise please let me know. I live in Omaha so the temp is 32 and the wind is blowing about 20 mph. So needless to say I only threw the bait about 5 times and got back in the truck......but here's my setup. I was using 50 lb power pro. Photofinished lure, size 6 trebles and have 3 coats of etex. Would the power pro have a huge effect on the lure action? Thanks

I'm glad you figured it out. I've painted and fished quite a few Predator Bass cranks, including his 2.5, and never had a problem.

I put a split ring on every hard bait I fish except poppers and jointed swim baits. That goes for topwaters, gliders, and my Twisters.

I know Speed Traps come with a snap connector, but every other commercial crank I've seen comes with a split ring.

I think a split ring allows a crankbait to spill water off the bill before it gets overloaded and rolls. That's why direct tie cranks only work at really low speeds.

Plus it enhances the side to side action.

And lastly, because the knot isn't getting wiggled constantly by a direct connection to the lure, it helps keep the knot strong.

I've "saved" quite a few bargin bin lures by just adding split rings. And a few that I made that didn't swim right until I added a split ring.

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Hi Guy's,

I am glad you figured out how to make the lure swim right,

I never want the lures to be a pain to work right, you should be able to paint them and chuck them with no hassle.

This square bill, I have sold about 10,000 of them over a 2 year period.

I never was a fan of the cut off looking bill on them and I finally got the manufacturer to change that, I hope to have the new looking bill in a week or so.

In the 2 year period I have only receive 10 of those lures back from one guy because he said they would not swim right, I gave those 10 lures to a good customer and I have not heard a peep from him about them not swimming.

I hope the new lure bill will also help with the swimming action that anyone is having trouble with.

As far as someone posting his lure sank, I am sure the screw was not tight and the lure filled with water.

I do not want a bad rep. and will try and make things right if you get a dud.

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