Frchkn

Paint Quality..

12 posts in this topic

I have been using Createx paint exclusivly. No matter how much I thin it or even without thinning it, it seems to spray chunky. Very small but for blending issues it just not look very clean like the pigment is to thick or clumpy. Is all paint this way or is it just me being a perfectionist?

Edited by Frchkn

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I have been using Createx paint exclusivly. No matter how much I thin it or even without thinning it, it seems to spray chunky. Very small but for blending issues it just not look very clean like the pigment is to thick or clumpy. Is all paint this way or is it just me being a perfectionist?

Maybe the psi it too low? Maybe the primer or surface has little bumps in it or raised grain, and it doesn't show until you put a color on?

John

Aiden James Lures

http://AJLures.com

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Maybe the psi it too low? Maybe the primer or surface has little bumps in it or raised grain, and it doesn't show until you put a color on?

John

Aiden James Lures

http://AJLures.com

maybe you are mixing products? Oil based or silicone primer? maybe some dust got in the paint? I had to throw a bottle of paint away because I left the top open and was sanding next to it.

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maybe you are mixing products? Oil based or silicone primer? maybe some dust got in the paint? I had to throw a bottle of paint away because I left the top open and was sanding next to it.

None of the above.. I must just be picky. Ill buy a bottle of auto air or something and compare.

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What are you using to thin the paint? When I first started painting I thinned with water and if thinned too much was having adhesion issues. I've since started using Auto air's 4011 fast dry reducer. It works a helluva lot better than plain water.By the way, Auto Air and Createx are made by the same company and are completely compatible with each other. I've even mixed the two when trying to achieve a certain color.

Edited by RayburnGuy

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What are you using to thin the paint? When I first started painting I thinned with water and if thinned too much was having adhesion issues. I've since started using Auto air's 4011 fast dry reducer. It works a helluva lot better than plain water.By the way, Auto Air and Createx are made by the same company and are completely compatible with each other. I've even mixed the two when trying to achieve a certain color.

I use a reducer recipe I found online involving, glycerine, denatured alcohol, and ammonia free glass cleaner.. I planned on using auto air because it was compatible with createx just thought it would be a upgraded recipe since it could be used for vehicles. I forgot to mention I mostly use pearl paints even mixed in opaques or transparents I almost always add pearlized.. I have a Iwata HP-cs with a .3mm nozzle.. im wondering if the pearl paints are the problem. When I think it to much it splatters even at about 5 psi I think the pearl paint just mite be to thick.

How do you compare Auto-Air to Createx? do they spray different to you? Is Auto-Air worth the extra money?

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I use a reducer recipe I found online involving, glycerine, denatured alcohol, and ammonia free glass cleaner.. I planned on using auto air because it was compatible with createx just thought it would be a upgraded recipe since it could be used for vehicles. I forgot to mention I mostly use pearl paints even mixed in opaques or transparents I almost always add pearlized.. I have a Iwata HP-cs with a .3mm nozzle.. im wondering if the pearl paints are the problem. When I think it to much it splatters even at about 5 psi I think the pearl paint just mite be to thick.

How do you compare Auto-Air to Createx? do they spray different to you? Is Auto-Air worth the extra money?

IMO, a .3mm tip should shoot any Createx paint. I shoot it at 20-40 psi for non-detail work and go down to 10 psi or less only when trying to shoot details with very thin paint. I've tried a few Auto Air colors and to me, it shoots no better than regular Createx. The reason I buy it is to get a particular color not available in the regular Createx line, not for other attributes. It may be better in terms of adhesion or durability but that doesn't seem to be the reason you're considering it. BTW, Createx says Auto Air should be thinned with their 4011 Reducer. Your home made reducer may be similar since the 4011 also smells like alcohol. I have started using the formula using water and Pledge floor polish, which seems to work OK. Better or worse? Not enough experience with either to judge yet.

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I use a reducer recipe I found online involving, glycerine, denatured alcohol, and ammonia free glass cleaner.. I planned on using auto air because it was compatible with createx just thought it would be a upgraded recipe since it could be used for vehicles. I forgot to mention I mostly use pearl paints even mixed in opaques or transparents I almost always add pearlized.. I have a Iwata HP-cs with a .3mm nozzle.. im wondering if the pearl paints are the problem. When I think it to much it splatters even at about 5 psi I think the pearl paint just mite be to thick.

How do you compare Auto-Air to Createx? do they spray different to you? Is Auto-Air worth the extra money?

I use createx with the homemade reducer. I shoot with an Iwata hp-c+ with a .3mm nozzle. I have not had any issues. I shoot pearls thinned at about 18 psi or so. I always test on paper first. The lower I go the more you can stipple. But thats what works for me. I have found that with that nozzle pearls will clump or shoot eraticly without thinning.

Edited by bassfan586

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I use a reducer recipe I found online involving, glycerine, denatured alcohol, and ammonia free glass cleaner.. I planned on using auto air because it was compatible with createx just thought it would be a upgraded recipe since it could be used for vehicles. I forgot to mention I mostly use pearl paints even mixed in opaques or transparents I almost always add pearlized.. I have a Iwata HP-cs with a .3mm nozzle.. im wondering if the pearl paints are the problem. When I think it to much it splatters even at about 5 psi I think the pearl paint just mite be to thick.

How do you compare Auto-Air to Createx? do they spray different to you? Is Auto-Air worth the extra money?

Like BobP I can't tell the difference between Auto Air and Createx as far as the way they shoot. And as Bob said I only buy Auto Air because they have certain colors that the Createx line doesn't provide.

I've started thinning all my paints with Auto Air 4011 reducer. And it works equally as well with Createx as it does with Auto Air. Since I've started thinning all my paint I've noticed that the brush cleanup is easier and I have far fewer problems than before I started thinning. That being said every color will not need the same amount of reducer. Some colors are just naturally thinner than others. And the only way I can tell you how much they need to be thinned is by experimenting. Try adding a little reducer, spray some and if it still seems thick then add a little more. You can always add more, but you can't take it out once it's in there.

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If it is an old paint issue there is a workaround. Kind of goofy, but you can thin it a little, shake it well, then strain it through something like cheesecloth. Should separate out the little clumps, had a similar problem last week. If it does not work by all means look at other setup issues...psi, cone, needle, dirty brush (back in the brush, around trigger, etc).

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