.dsaavedra.

Bloxygen

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How long does one 16oz can of Bloxygen last you when using it for Dick Nites? would it last a whole quart of DN?

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Difficult to answer. I haven't gone through enough quarts of DN to get a sense. All I can say is I buy 2 cans of Bloxygen with a quart of DN so I can be sure to have some on hand. I think I was shooting more than enough in my DN storage jar when I first started using it. But how much is necessary depends on how much air space is in the jar.

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thanks, thats good into. do you think it takes more than 1 can of bloxygen to protect a quart of DN until its gone?

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I've been told you get about 75...2sec blast out of a 1 can of bloxygen...but like the above post said it depends on the air space in your container......Most people are using mason jars with the 2 piece lid, because the lids make a good seal.....Good luck

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thanks

with the recent trouble people are having with the DN WRTC (same problems i had with my last waterbourne polyurethane) i think i'm going to just go for it and get the regular moisture cure DN.

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thanks

with the recent trouble people are having with the DN WRTC (same problems i had with my last waterbourne polyurethane) i think i'm going to just go for it and get the regular moisture cure DN.

The Moisture Cure DN is the way to go. I have been using it for about 2 months now and this stuff is great. I am using a mason jar for dipping my baits and if I just want a super thin coat then I brush it on. I buy two can every time I get a little low because you never want to be using DN and not have it on hand. I didn't spray enough in a little jar one time and the bottom little bit cured on me. I haven't had a problem with it in the mason jar.

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I think ordering Bloxygen direct from the company website is probably the way to go since the price seems the same as from other outlets and you're sure to get it without backorders, etc. I'm not deliriously happy with Bloxygen at $12 a can but it was the only sure preventative I knew about. It is a mixture of argon and nitrogen gas - in other words, pretty much the same stuff that welders use. So if you have a source for welding gas...

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It only takes a quick spray to do the job. Using a narrow jar makes it last longer as it takes even less gas to protect the DN. You don't need to fill the empty area with argon just need a layer on top of the Dn to keep oxygen from contacting it. How long a can last would depend on how many times you open and dip from the jar.

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I think 2 seconds might be a little much when the can is new, I did not have a back up can on hand a few weeks ago. When I went to close up my mason jar barely anything came out. I had the red straw almost touching the DN in the jar and it didn't even made a ripple, but it stayed fresh. I was in a panic. Now I will always have a backup can.

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there is a welding shop right down the street from me. i always see huge tanks of gas around the place, like 3 foot tall tanks. would they be able to sell smaller tanks or use those big tanks to fill up a smaller container or something? would this be cheaper than going with Bloxygen?

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from my understanding, at the end of a session.

i.e. before you close up the jar for an extended period of time

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there is a welding shop right down the street from me. i always see huge tanks of gas around the place, like 3 foot tall tanks. would they be able to sell smaller tanks or use those big tanks to fill up a smaller container or something? would this be cheaper than going with Bloxygen?

What you probably want to do is go to the company that supplies industrial gases and inquire into buying/renting a small tank of your own. You want the gas to be bone dry so you want a tank purged and filled by the gas company. Pressurizing an "empty" tank that has air and moisture inside it with nitrogen would not do that.

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Just to make sure I went back and checked one of my cans of Bloxygen and it only lists contents as Argon instead of a mix of gases. Just don't want anyone getting confused. The specific gravity of Argon is 1.38 while pure Nitrogen is 0.9669. With Air having a specific gravity of 1.0 Nitrogen is actually lighter than air and would not form the protective blanket that keeps moisture away from the surface of the top coat. Would hate to see anyone get confused and lose a can of DN by trying to use Nitrogen to protect it.

Ben

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good info rayburn guy, i'm sure you saved some people some hassle.

it looks like its easiest to just go with Bloxygen, since its proven and convenient.

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It is possible to buy Argon at your local welding supply. You would also need to buy a regulator. I didn't price the regulators as I already have one from my welding days, but I did get a price on buying a tank of argon. A full cylinder of Argon would have cost me around $140. That's to purchase the cylinder and the Argon.These are the big cylinders that are about 5 feet tall. Don't believe the Argon comes in a smaller cylinder. After purchasing the cylinder it was around $35 to refill it. You can also rent the cylinders and just exchange an empty one for a full one and only pay for the gas. Not sure what the rental was per month as I didn't ask. If your in the lure building business for the long haul this would be the way to go as it would say you money over time.

Ben

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Hey Ben

Didn't you use to tap the bottom of the can with a screw???

Yea Mike I did. Capt. Sully was the one who told me about doing that. And it works fine for drawing enough out to paint on with a brush, but I suck at brushing it on. I really like to dip my lures for that reason and tapping the can won't work for that. I'm going to start spraying my lures with DN and see how that works. If the spraying turns out OK then I will be going back to tapping the can with a screw.

Ben

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This was a post from Dick himself.....if you need to verify this give him a call........post as follows

Excellent instruction. We use nirogen in our shop for all containers of top-coat. Even have it on the top of the TC waiting to ship. Anything that doesn't absorb moisture and is heavier than air will work. Bloxygen works well, I am told, but we use enough I simply got a bottle of nitrogen from the welders supply and regulate a bit onto the top of anything that is ever opened.

Thanks for the good commentary, Bob!

Dick

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Yea Mike I did. Capt. Sully was the one who told me about doing that. And it works fine for drawing enough out to paint on with a brush, but I suck at brushing it on. I really like to dip my lures for that reason and tapping the can won't work for that. I'm going to start spraying my lures with DN and see how that works. If the spraying turns out OK then I will be going back to tapping the can with a screw.

Ben

Give me a holler Ben, if you want to tackle the brushing again. It brushes completely different than epoxy. Not only does it brush on much faster than epoxy, you must brush it on faster than epoxy. And once you get the hang of it, you'll find it is much easier to get great finish with, too.

David learned his "tapping the Keg" trick through his 'sister hobby" of rod building. He finally finished a can of S8-1, original DN recently, and was very interested to check out the interior of his emptied can. It was clean as a whistle, no dried up topcoat at all. He said it looked as though you'd opened the can and simply poured it all out: There was no waste.

The best source for Bloxygen I've found is Woodcraft. They always have it and sometimes have it on sale...I think I've paid as little as $8.95 a can for it online, and it was when they had a free shipping deal too. If you have one of their stores near you, they may also keep it in stock.

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Give me a holler Ben, if you want to tackle the brushing again. It brushes completely different than epoxy. Not only does it brush on much faster than epoxy, you must brush it on faster than epoxy. And once you get the hang of it, you'll find it is much easier to get great finish with, too.

David learned his "tapping the Keg" trick through his 'sister hobby" of rod building. He finally finished a can of S8-1, original DN recently, and was very interested to check out the interior of his emptied can. It was clean as a whistle, no dried up topcoat at all. He said it looked as though you'd opened the can and simply poured it all out: There was no waste.

The best source for Bloxygen I've found is Woodcraft. They always have it and sometimes have it on sale...I think I've paid as little as $8.95 a can for it online, and it was when they had a free shipping deal too. If you have one of their stores near you, they may also keep it in stock.

Thanks Dean. I may take you up on that offer. I think the trouble I have with brushing top coats is that I don't know when to leave it alone. I'll see one tiny imperfection and will start trying to fix it and only end up making matters worse. And it's not just the DN. I do the same thing with epoxy. Probably need somebody standing there with a big stick to "remind" me when to stop. lol

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Give me a holler Ben, if you want to tackle the brushing again. It brushes completely different than epoxy. Not only does it brush on much faster than epoxy, you must brush it on faster than epoxy. And once you get the hang of it, you'll find it is much easier to get great finish with, too.

David learned his "tapping the Keg" trick through his 'sister hobby" of rod building. He finally finished a can of S8-1, original DN recently, and was very interested to check out the interior of his emptied can. It was clean as a whistle, no dried up topcoat at all. He said it looked as though you'd opened the can and simply poured it all out: There was no waste.

The best source for Bloxygen I've found is Woodcraft. They always have it and sometimes have it on sale...I think I've paid as little as $8.95 a can for it online, and it was when they had a free shipping deal too. If you have one of their stores near you, they may also keep it in stock.

Dean, could you start a new thread and put up a detailed explanation/instruction on tapping the can of DN with a screw and brushing it on? i'd like to try this out but i want to really make sure i'm doing it right before i try it!

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Dean, could you start a new thread and put up a detailed explanation/instruction on tapping the can of http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/13657-dick-nite-lure-coat/page__p__101341__hl__%2Bbrushing+%2Bdicknite%26%2339%3Bs__fromsearch__1#entry101341

David has posted about tapping the can before, and I didn't search it, but Ben has done it also, so I might prevail upon him to explain this, as he has done it, and he may be able to shed some unique light on the subject as someone who has done per David's instuction.

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Here's how "tapping the keg" is done as explained to me by David. (Capt. Sully) You will need a sheet metal screw to act as a valve of sorts. I used a self tapping sheet metal screw like the ones that are used to screw metal roofing down. They have a rubber washer behind a small metal disc that when tightened forms a seal. I think David told me that any sheet metal screw will work, and if there is any leakage it will be very slight and will seal itself off in a matter of seconds. Now that you have your screw you are ready. Turn the can upside down. This is to prevent spilling any top coat while installing the screw. On the side, close to the bottom, (which is now the top) use an ice pick, or something similar, and poke a small hole into the side of the can. Just big enough to get the screw started. You want it to remain as tight as possible so it will form a seal when the screw is installed. Since one picture is worth a thousand words I've enclosed a drawing of what it will look like when finished. If you have any questions just holler and I will try to help. One thing I should warn you about. Don't try to tighten the screw too tight as it will only strip out the thin wall of the container. Been there..........Done that..........Got the t-shirt Finger tight is more than enough.

Ben

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

Tapping the Keg.jpg

post-21848-0-01058900-1300127174_thumb.jpg

Edited by RayburnGuy

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