Jump to content
23 replies to this topic
Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:22 PM
How long does one 16oz can of Bloxygen last you when using it for Dick Nites? would it last a whole quart of DN?
Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:27 PM
Difficult to answer. I haven't gone through enough quarts of DN to get a sense. All I can say is I buy 2 cans of Bloxygen with a quart of DN so I can be sure to have some on hand. I think I was shooting more than enough in my DN storage jar when I first started using it. But how much is necessary depends on how much air space is in the jar.
Posted 08 March 2011 - 11:34 PM
thanks, thats good into. do you think it takes more than 1 can of bloxygen to protect a quart of DN until its gone?
Posted 09 March 2011 - 12:18 AM
I've been told you get about 75...2sec blast out of a 1 can of bloxygen...but like the above post said it depends on the air space in your container......Most people are using mason jars with the 2 piece lid, because the lids make a good seal.....Good luck
Posted 09 March 2011 - 12:36 AM
with the recent trouble people are having with the DN WRTC (same problems i had with my last waterbourne polyurethane) i think i'm going to just go for it and get the regular moisture cure DN.
Posted 09 March 2011 - 03:20 AM
The Moisture Cure DN is the way to go. I have been using it for about 2 months now and this stuff is great. I am using a mason jar for dipping my baits and if I just want a super thin coat then I brush it on. I buy two can every time I get a little low because you never want to be using DN and not have it on hand. I didn't spray enough in a little jar one time and the bottom little bit cured on me. I haven't had a problem with it in the mason jar.
Posted 09 March 2011 - 12:42 PM
I think ordering Bloxygen direct from the company website is probably the way to go since the price seems the same as from other outlets and you're sure to get it without backorders, etc. I'm not deliriously happy with Bloxygen at $12 a can but it was the only sure preventative I knew about. It is a mixture of argon and nitrogen gas - in other words, pretty much the same stuff that welders use. So if you have a source for welding gas...
Posted 09 March 2011 - 02:26 PM
It only takes a quick spray to do the job. Using a narrow jar makes it last longer as it takes even less gas to protect the DN. You don't need to fill the empty area with argon just need a layer on top of the Dn to keep oxygen from contacting it. How long a can last would depend on how many times you open and dip from the jar.
Posted 09 March 2011 - 03:48 PM
I think 2 seconds might be a little much when the can is new, I did not have a back up can on hand a few weeks ago. When I went to close up my mason jar barely anything came out. I had the red straw almost touching the DN in the jar and it didn't even made a ripple, but it stayed fresh. I was in a panic. Now I will always have a backup can.
Posted 09 March 2011 - 04:03 PM
there is a welding shop right down the street from me. i always see huge tanks of gas around the place, like 3 foot tall tanks. would they be able to sell smaller tanks or use those big tanks to fill up a smaller container or something? would this be cheaper than going with Bloxygen?
Posted 09 March 2011 - 04:53 PM
Are you guys hitting it between every dip or it it just at the end of the session?
Posted 09 March 2011 - 07:43 PM
from my understanding, at the end of a session.
i.e. before you close up the jar for an extended period of time
Posted 09 March 2011 - 10:42 PM
What you probably want to do is go to the company that supplies industrial gases and inquire into buying/renting a small tank of your own. You want the gas to be bone dry so you want a tank purged and filled by the gas company. Pressurizing an "empty" tank that has air and moisture inside it with nitrogen would not do that.
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:01 AM
Just to make sure I went back and checked one of my cans of Bloxygen and it only lists contents as Argon instead of a mix of gases. Just don't want anyone getting confused. The specific gravity of Argon is 1.38 while pure Nitrogen is 0.9669. With Air having a specific gravity of 1.0 Nitrogen is actually lighter than air and would not form the protective blanket that keeps moisture away from the surface of the top coat. Would hate to see anyone get confused and lose a can of DN by trying to use Nitrogen to protect it.
Posted 10 March 2011 - 12:41 PM
good info rayburn guy, i'm sure you saved some people some hassle.
it looks like its easiest to just go with Bloxygen, since its proven and convenient.
Posted 10 March 2011 - 03:06 PM
It is possible to buy Argon at your local welding supply. You would also need to buy a regulator. I didn't price the regulators as I already have one from my welding days, but I did get a price on buying a tank of argon. A full cylinder of Argon would have cost me around $140. That's to purchase the cylinder and the Argon.These are the big cylinders that are about 5 feet tall. Don't believe the Argon comes in a smaller cylinder. After purchasing the cylinder it was around $35 to refill it. You can also rent the cylinders and just exchange an empty one for a full one and only pay for the gas. Not sure what the rental was per month as I didn't ask. If your in the lure building business for the long haul this would be the way to go as it would say you money over time.
Posted 10 March 2011 - 09:36 PM
Didn't you use to tap the bottom of the can with a screw???
Posted 10 March 2011 - 11:15 PM
Yea Mike I did. Capt. Sully was the one who told me about doing that. And it works fine for drawing enough out to paint on with a brush, but I suck at brushing it on. I really like to dip my lures for that reason and tapping the can won't work for that. I'm going to start spraying my lures with DN and see how that works. If the spraying turns out OK then I will be going back to tapping the can with a screw.
Posted 12 March 2011 - 05:30 PM
This was a post from Dick himself.....if you need to verify this give him a call........post as follows
Excellent instruction. We use nirogen in our shop for all containers of top-coat. Even have it on the top of the TC waiting to ship. Anything that doesn't absorb moisture and is heavier than air will work. Bloxygen works well, I am told, but we use enough I simply got a bottle of nitrogen from the welders supply and regulate a bit onto the top of anything that is ever opened.
Thanks for the good commentary, Bob!
Posted 12 March 2011 - 11:59 PM
Give me a holler Ben, if you want to tackle the brushing again. It brushes completely different than epoxy. Not only does it brush on much faster than epoxy, you must brush it on faster than epoxy. And once you get the hang of it, you'll find it is much easier to get great finish with, too.
David learned his "tapping the Keg" trick through his 'sister hobby" of rod building. He finally finished a can of S8-1, original DN recently, and was very interested to check out the interior of his emptied can. It was clean as a whistle, no dried up topcoat at all. He said it looked as though you'd opened the can and simply poured it all out: There was no waste.
The best source for Bloxygen I've found is Woodcraft. They always have it and sometimes have it on sale...I think I've paid as little as $8.95 a can for it online, and it was when they had a free shipping deal too. If you have one of their stores near you, they may also keep it in stock.