Whats The Hardest Most Durable Clear Coat On The Market?
19 replies to this topic
Posted 13 March 2011 - 06:44 PM
So I'm wondering what you guys think are the strongest and most durable clear coats out there and how do you apply them?
Posted 13 March 2011 - 07:16 PM
????? LOL, Seriously? I think you need to help yourself on this one, there are so many different great discussions on this topic, pick one and start reading.
Posted 13 March 2011 - 08:57 PM
I just looked on the first page of the hardbaits forum. I counted 14 top coat or related threads. That is almost 50% of the posts are top coat related. Do you think we are obsessing?
Posted 13 March 2011 - 10:52 PM
Yes I do, and I'm fixin to join FA (finishers anonymous).
Posted 13 March 2011 - 10:56 PM
to answer your question...
hardest most durable clear coat i know is Devcon 2 Ton epoxy.
does this make it the best clear coat (this seems to be what we are obsessing about), the answer is no, not by any means
Posted 14 March 2011 - 12:27 AM
There are so many that you will want to try. You would probably be best starting with Devcon 2 ton 30 minute epoxy, as it is available on the high street in 1oz containers for a few dollars. Not the cheapest top coat, but being able to try it in a small amount is a big plus. You can then use D2T as the bench mark for comparing other top coats.
Fatfingers did a tutorial on applying epoxy. If you check out his work in the gallery, you will understand that he knows what he is talking about: http://www.tackleund...lawless-finish/
Posted 14 March 2011 - 10:51 AM
Wouldn't a clearcoat have to also be the most scratch resistant to be the hardest?
If so S8-1 Dicknite's is the hardest, and it's much more difficult to sand than Devcon. After it has fully cured, S8-2 seems to be just as hard, according to the lastest pickup truck-trolling data.
past that, you could read info on that all day long, as Dave and Douglas suggested SEARCH!
Posted 14 March 2011 - 07:38 PM
The Best Clear Coat On The Market Today Hands Down Is , What Ever Works Best For You..
As Well I Have A Mad Chemist Locked Away In My Basement.
Posted 14 March 2011 - 08:54 PM
Since you are in the midst of commercial production of your baits, I would have assumed that you would have researched this prior to selling baits. I would suggest a clearcoat utilized in the automotive industry usually a 2 part urethane clear that can be sprayed. Or you can use the search feature here as there are probably 25 pages of information relating to clearcoats
Posted 15 March 2011 - 01:54 AM
Maybe you mean 25 pages of thread titles relating to clearcoats?
Posted 15 March 2011 - 03:33 AM
I don't have a basement so I've got my mad chemist chained to a tree out by the back porch. He's been slaving away at a formula for a new top coat for the last few weeks. We're having trouble with one of our suppliers though. Does anyone know of a reliable source for depleted uranium? We figured if it was good enough to build armor for battlefield tanks it should hold up just fine on a crankbait.
Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:00 AM
I think they also use depleted uranium for the bullets in the Prowler's big gun, so all you have to do is piss off the AF, survive a strafing run on your home, and dig out the spent bullets from what's left of you home when they leave.
It's a plan, but, as plans go, I'd put that way down on my bucket list. Way down.
Posted 16 March 2011 - 10:52 AM
Once again some great information. Thanks guys. I did do a "SEARCH " thank you, and I read through 20 of those threads and just thought that maybe I could find a little tid bit not found there. I'm working on a lipless bait and the clear coats I've used haven't worked all that good so I wanted to compair some results. I will try the 2 ton and see how it holds up. Thanks again for the good information.
Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:50 AM
Personally for a lipless bit I wouldnt choose 2ton... Reason being that the edge of the bait acts as the bill and you dont want that to be smooth and rounded like 2ton will do when it levels. I would choose somthing like DN1(S81?) where you can have a nice edge up top. I have no scientific evidence to back this just my thoughts.
Posted 16 March 2011 - 01:55 PM
I agree with Matt about D2T and rattle type baits. Most rattle baits that I've seen have sharp corners on them somewhere and Devcon tends to pull away from those sharp corners and leave thin spots.
Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:16 PM
Good info, thanks again. I'll check that stuff out. I haven't added a lipless bait to my stable of baits for sale and when I do I need to know that they'll stand up to a beating some what.
Posted 22 March 2011 - 06:39 AM
Concrete, very durable but it's not clear.
Posted 22 March 2011 - 07:13 AM
And it's not very buoyant, although they do build boats out of it.
Posted 22 March 2011 - 07:14 AM
Personally, I like E-tex, it does take a little bit of time(brushing on with a bristle brush and then putting on sometype of slow turning spinner for a few hours to allow for drying), I've tried lots of clearcoats and E-tex dries nice and clear (and stays clear) and is hard as a rock.
Posted 28 March 2011 - 10:33 AM
I've only used D2t and Lure-Craft Poly-Sil. Poly-Sil absolutely blows D2T away. Super slick, rock hard, gnarly riprap is nothing, incredible gloss and depth. And you can buy in small bottles. It requires a catalyst. I assume it is a urethane. Problem: there is a $25 dollar hazmat fee to ship any quantity.
I first used Poly-sil about a decade ago. I assume the formula hasn't changed. Hours of light exposure merely gave me a mild, spacey high. No paramedics were involved. Sprayed outside, no booth, medium house fan at my back. Through Iwata HP-C. Pot life is 4 hours. Spray, brush, or dip. They have a full line of colors, too, all of which are killer.