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Lure Dryer Using Foam Discs

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Does any one have any idea or suggestion about how to go about building a lure finish coat dryer using the hard foam insulation discs (usually lite blue or tourquoise) like the one being used in the Amistad Tackle air brush painting video. I have the foam and a rotissere motor but don't want to dedicate my only rotissere "Spit" ( metal rod that the meat is placed on) to this task. Any suggestions in using this type of dryer when repainting LIPLESS baits??

Thanks in advance !!

Ray from PA.

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Does any one have any idea or suggestion about how to go about building a lure finish coat dryer using the hard foam insulation discs (usually lite blue or tourquoise) like the one being used in the Amistad Tackle air brush painting video. I have the foam and a rotissere motor but don't want to dedicate my only rotissere "Spit" ( metal rod that the meat is placed on) to this task. Any suggestions in using this type of dryer when repainting LIPLESS baits??

Thanks in advance !!

Ray from PA.

well Ray from Pa you can go to your local hardware store and get your self a piece of all thread the same size as your metal rod and either grind one end the same or heat one end up and forge it square with a hammer or buy another motor, I have done all of the above.

Jeff

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As far as drying lipless baits you can either use hemostats or build a holder out of a paint stirring stick (flat so it will slip between the discs) and something along the lines of an alligator clip. Just clamp them onto the hook hangers and stick the holder between the discs.

Ben

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Does any one have any idea or suggestion about how to go about building a lure finish coat dryer using the hard foam insulation discs (usually lite blue or tourquoise) like the one being used in the Amistad Tackle air brush painting video. I have the foam and a rotissere motor but don't want to dedicate my only rotissere "Spit" ( metal rod that the meat is placed on) to this task. Any suggestions in using this type of dryer when repainting LIPLESS baits??

Thanks in advance !!

Ray from PA.

Jerry (Redg8r) did a video of this, at last years anual Clinton meet. Not sure where he hides the video's though. I had a quick look, but could not find them.

Dave

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As far as drying lipless baits you can either use hemostats or build a holder out of a paint stirring stick (flat so it will slip between the discs) and something along the lines of an alligator clip. Just clamp them onto the hook hangers and stick the holder between the discs.

Ben

Ben I was wondering about using the heavy weight metal clips that are used in the video to place nose down in the slats of a work bench. You could clip the hook hanger and then put the clip handle in between the spaces of the discs. Sound Possible ??

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Ben I was wondering about using the heavy weight metal clips that are used in the video to place nose down in the slats of a work bench. You could clip the hook hanger and then put the clip handle in between the spaces of the discs. Sound Possible ??

I have seen the video, but am not 100% sure about the type of clips they were using. Is it the binder clips? The ones I'm thinking about are usually black spring steel with 2 chrome wire handles on them. Is that the ones? If they are they would probably work fine for baits with diving lips on them although I would probably put some tape on the lip to keep from scratching them. Don't think they would work on lipless cranks though. The hook hangers probably don't stick out for enough for the clip to get a bite on them. That's why I was thinking about using something like a flat, wood paint stirrer stick or tongue depressors or even popsicle sticks with an alligator clamp fastened to the end. They make alligator clamps with holes in the back of them so you could fasten it with a small machine bolt and you could build a buttload of them for practically nothing.

The reason behind the paint stirrer was that it would give you plenty of surface area (they're about an inch wide) to cause plenty of friction between the discs so it wouldn't slip while it was on the turner. And they're thin enough to slip easily between the discs.

Just something to think about.

Ben

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I have seen the video, but am not 100% sure about the type of clips they were using. Is it the binder clips? The ones I'm thinking about are usually black spring steel with 2 chrome wire handles on them. Is that the ones? If they are they would probably work fine for baits with diving lips on them although I would probably put some tape on the lip to keep from scratching them. Don't think they would work on lipless cranks though. The hook hangers probably don't stick out for enough for the clip to get a bite on them. That's why I was thinking about using something like a flat, wood paint stirrer stick or tongue depressors or even popsicle sticks with an alligator clamp fastened to the end. They make alligator clamps with holes in the back of them so you could fasten it with a small machine bolt and you could build a buttload of them for practically nothing.

The reason behind the paint stirrer was that it would give you plenty of surface area (they're about an inch wide) to cause plenty of friction between the discs so it wouldn't slip while it was on the turner. And they're thin enough to slip easily between the discs.

Just something to think about.

Ben

Thanks Ben, Yes I am talking about the Binder Clips with black body and chrome wire handles. I'll have to get me some paint stirrers and alligator clips. That sounds like the way to go for sure. From the video, how big or what is the diameter of the plates?? I was thinking at least 12 " and may be even 14 ". The larger the diameter the more pressure and probably the slower the speed.

Ray

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Thanks Ben, Yes I am talking about the Binder Clips with black body and chrome wire handles. I'll have to get me some paint stirrers and alligator clips. That sounds like the way to go for sure. From the video, how big or what is the diameter of the plates?? I was thinking at least 12 " and may be even 14 ". The larger the diameter the more pressure and probably the slower the speed.

Ray

If your talking about the larger disc having more clamping pressure then I don't think so. The clamping pressure would be determined by how tight you have the foam discs compressed between the two pieces of plywood and the amount of surface area that comes into contact with those discs. I wouldn't worry so much about that. All you need is just enough pressure to keep the bait from falling out and hitting the floor.

You are right though about the larger disc turning slower. As your disc gets bigger you increase the length of travel at the outer edge. It would be the same thing as you walking at a constant speed around the perimeter of your house versus walking around the block your house is located on. Same speed/greater distance.

Ben

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Does any one have any idea or suggestion about how to go about building a lure finish coat dryer using the hard foam insulation discs (usually lite blue or tourquoise) like the one being used in the Amistad Tackle air brush painting video. I have the foam and a rotissere motor but don't want to dedicate my only rotissere "Spit" ( metal rod that the meat is placed on) to this task. Any suggestions in using this type of dryer when repainting LIPLESS baits??

Thanks in advance !!

Ray from PA.

I do not like the design of this dryer. After using it for a while the insulation begins to break apart and lands on the baits. You will get insulation stuck to your lures!

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Dont use the insulation as disc as stated above. I used tru-foam from walmart in the fabric dept. Its a foam used in making cushions i believe. Works great holds baits in place using the baits lips or a nail inserted into aligator clips to use on your lipless or stick baits. I posted pics of my on an eairlier post. The insulation sucks over time.

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