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Fluke Boy

Heellllllllllllllllp!

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Greetings to all of you from South Africa. My name is Fluke Boy, and I am a soft plastics pouring addict! Guys, I hope that you can help me, I have been reusing my used plastic in pouring for 4 years now without a problem, I finally took the jump, and ordered some virgin plastic from the US, (we don't have any locally available product) and I can't seem to get my formula for heating right. I am using Lurecraft #536. My procedure: I heat a cup for about 45 seconds to get it to clear, add my colour (dye), glitter and salt powder. (I use about a 70 % plastic, and 30% salt ratio) reheat for 10 seconds, and stir , and then pour, leave to set for a while, and !@#$%^%$#@@! my shapes are perfect, the consistency of the plastic is waaaaaaaay to soft, am I doing something wrong, or is there something that I need to mix in that I don't have? Please help.

(P.S. I am using aluminum cnc molds)

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards.

Fluke Boy.:blink:

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Greetings to all of you from South Africa. My name is Fluke Boy, and I am a soft plastics pouring addict! Guys, I hope that you can help me, I have been reusing my used plastic in pouring for 4 years now without a problem, I finally took the jump, and ordered some virgin plastic from the US, (we don't have any locally available product) and I can't seem to get my formula for heating right. I am using Lurecraft #536. My procedure: I heat a cup for about 45 seconds to get it to clear, add my colour (dye), glitter and salt powder. (I use about a 70 % plastic, and 30% salt ratio) reheat for 10 seconds, and stir , and then pour, leave to set for a while, and !@#$%^%$#@@! my shapes are perfect, the consistency of the plastic is waaaaaaaay to soft, am I doing something wrong, or is there something that I need to mix in that I don't have? Please help.

(P.S. I am using aluminum cnc molds)

Any help would be appreciated.

Regards.

Fluke Boy.:blink:

Fluke Boy

You are heating one cup of plastic for 45 seconds? Are you Making sure the plastic goes through the gel stage....Here in the states one cup (8 oz) take at least 2 and half minutes to get to the gel stage and then back to liquid....Have been using LC plastic for years and I also use salt when making my stick baits...

Hope this helps.

Cliff

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Im new to this also so i might not have the best advice, but i am using the same formula #536 with a cnc mold and i have found that the heating time is not important...the temperature is. I tried using the microwave, but i found i couldnt keep an eye on the temp accuratley, so i switched to doing on an outdoor burner. I have found that i have to get to at LEAST 350 degrees first then i usually pour when it gets to around 360. I also use a infered thermometer that helps a ton!

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hey from the US what your doing is not heating your plastic enough. it goes through 3 stages basically 1. being milky white from the jug 2. is a semi-solid gel stage almost like a thick grease then 3. it starts to thin down to a clear state where your temps should be above 320 degrees. my wife and i have been doing this for quite some time and i have yet to see any plastic heat up in just 45 seconds. if it was it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of like 2000 watts i reckon. also make sure you are shaking/mixing the plastic up sufficiently and when you think you have it mixed up enough shake it awhile longer until you figure out just how much mixing it needs. let us know how it goes...jon/pw

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hey from the US what your doing is not heating your plastic enough. it goes through 3 stages basically 1. being milky white from the jug 2. is a semi-solid gel stage almost like a thick grease then 3. it starts to thin down to a clear state where your temps should be above 320 degrees. my wife and i have been doing this for quite some time and i have yet to see any plastic heat up in just 45 seconds. if it was it would be somewhere in the neighborhood of like 2000 watts i reckon. also make sure you are shaking/mixing the plastic up sufficiently and when you think you have it mixed up enough shake it awhile longer until you figure out just how much mixing it needs. let us know how it goes...jon/pw

Thanks a lot guys, I will go and try this shortly, just to confirm, I am heating for 2 1/2 minutes straight, or do I take it out periodically, and stir? Thanks again.

Fluke Boy.

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microwave 2 minutes stir

microwave 1 minute stir

microwave 30 seconds stir

keep heating at 30 seconds intervals as needed (transparent and has the consistency of corn syrup)

Microwave Oven Instructions

A microwave oven is a very good way to heat either Formula #502 of Formula #536 plastic. The best containers that we have found for heating plastic in a microwave are "Pyrex" measuring cups. You can heat one (1) pint of plastic in approximately four (4) minutes. We recommend stirring the plastic when the heating process is 75% complete. Standard colors may be added to the plastic before and after heating. Fluorescent colors must be added before heating. CAUTION: Do not put our plastic molds in a microwave oven.

Step 1:

In order to ensure consistent and superb results, be sure to shake the liquid plastisol very well. Some contents will have settled during shipping or storage.

Step 2:

Heat the plastisol on a low heat setting and stir frequently to prevent scorching. The plastisol needs to be heated to approximately 340 degrees (F). Take care not to over fill the aluminum pot as pouring will become very difficult.

Step 3:

Colour can be added while the plastisol is heating. You can mix your own custom colours by using the included Colour Wheel. Continue to stir the plastisol to mix the colour and to prevent scorching. If you are using flourescent colours, they must be added before heating.

Step 4:

Included with every LureCraft Worm Making Kit is a bottle of Lunker Lotion. Lunker Lotion are scent additives that will attract fish, our kit came with Garlic scent and like the colour additives you can mix with other LureCraft Lunker Lotion scents to create a unique scent. The Lunker Lotion can also be added to the plastisol while heating.

Step 5:

Continue heating the plastisol until it turns transparent and has the consistency of corn syrup. Now you are ready to pour.

Step 6:

Begin pouring the plastisol into the mold. If you would like a round mold, you will need to slightly over fill the mold cavities. Pour the molds in one smooth motion.

Step 7:

The plastisol cures very quickly and the worms can then be removed from the mold by hand

Step 8:

As you are still developing your lure making skills, you will inevitably need to trim off some excess plastic. This can be done with any knife. Remeber to keep all of the scrap plastisol as it can be re-melted for future worms. There is no waste when using the LureCraft Worm Making Kit.

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Ok, gave it a shot ........... fail! Will it make a significant difference if I have a 1550 watt microwave, or does that not matter? We do not have corn syrup in South Africa, is it the same as normal syrup, ie. honey on a hot day?

Thanks.

FB

Edited by Fluke Boy
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Only other thing it may be is Lurecraft is notorious for separating in the container you need to mix the hell out of it then when you think your done mix it some more, it sure sounds like a separation issue and a lack of hardener if you are following the previously prescribed heating method.

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Ok, gave it a shot ........... fail! Will it make a significant difference if I have a 1550 watt microwave, or does that not matter? We do not have corn syrup in South Africa, is it the same as normal syrup, ie. honey on a hot day?

Thanks.

FB

I think what is missing here is you location and weather an how fast corn syrup flows. It is going to be like honey on a cold day there.

If it is like honey on a hot day keep heating a little more.

Regards

Mark

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Thanks so much guys, I think that the problem is definitely separation, I didn't realize that it did this, and it's been on a ship for 5 weeks so DUHHHHHHHH for me! It's going to be a tricky one, as it is a 5 gallon bucket, would it be ok to mix it with a drill, and a paint mixer attachment, and then once mixed, take some out to keep in a smaller jug and use, and then just repeat as needed? Sorry for all the "newbie" questions, but this will be an expensive mistake for me if I don't do this right!

Regards.

FB.:blink:

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Thanks so much guys, I think that the problem is definitely separation, I didn't realize that it did this, and it's been on a ship for 5 weeks so DUHHHHHHHH for me! It's going to be a tricky one, as it is a 5 gallon bucket, would it be ok to mix it with a drill, and a paint mixer attachment, and then once mixed, take some out to keep in a smaller jug and use, and then just repeat as needed? Sorry for all the "newbie" questions, but this will be an expensive mistake for me if I don't do this right!

Regards.

FB.:blink:

Yes, use a drill and paint mixer, make sure you get it thoroughly mixed first, then take what you need out of it.

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If you can find a container that is clear if possible and then you will be able to see when hardener is mixed. It will prolly be hardpack so spend 10-15 minutes to ensure you got it all, I did my 5 gallon container last night that sat for 6 months and it was really packed on the bottom.

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The hardner had settled, mixed for 25 mins this morning threw first batch, tough colour for me as I am still a newb (green pumpkin purple/watermelon red laminate) hey presto! First pour.........150% I am really stoked!

Thanks guys.

FB.:)

Edited by Fluke Boy
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Right, if anybody would care to try this in the US, this is a color that I have been playing with for some time by buying the plastic baits that I needed, and then melting them down to mold with. Today, I managed to get it right straight away with the virgin plastic, and it's waaaaaaaaaay better, so for those who are interested (let me know if it works for you), this is one of my favorite clean water colors for a 4" senko type bait.

8oz 536

15 drops LC Green Pumpkin

5 tsp fine salt

1/8 tsp .035 LC Copper flake

1/8 tsp .035 LC Purple flake

Forgive me if someone has posted this before, I call it "purple peril", hope that it works for you.

Regards.

FB.:)

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What is the best way to microwave old soft plastic worms to make new lures? I'm planning to make my first plaster mold and I don't have any virgin soft plastic, so I'm going to melt down some oldies that have seen better days. Does anyone add salt? If so, do you need to add a softener? If so, how much? Thanks.

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What is the best way to microwave old soft plastic worms to make new lures? I'm planning to make my first plaster mold and I don't have any virgin soft plastic, so I'm going to melt down some oldies that have seen better days. Does anyone add salt? If so, do you need to add a softener? If so, how much? Thanks.

Be extremely careful when remelting old plastics. they will explode in a pyrex cup if a little virgin plastic is not added. I had a cup explode last week when I forgot to add some new plastic to the pile of old baits. Rob

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Only other thing it may be is Lurecraft is notorious for separating in the container you need to mix the hell out of it then when you think your done mix it some more, it sure sounds like a separation issue and a lack of hardener if you are following the previously prescribed heating method.

BINGO!!

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Be extremely careful when remelting old plastics. they will explode in a pyrex cup if a little virgin plastic is not added. I had a cup explode last week when I forgot to add some new plastic to the pile of old baits. Rob

Wonder what went wrong or was different. I have re-melted lures without a problem for years without new plastic, sometimes it will yellow if it is clear.

Just do heat in the micro a little slower than new plastic. stir, heat, stir, heat, stir, heat.... but never boom???

Regards

Mark

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