blazt*

Clearcoats For Maximum Flash?

23 posts in this topic

I've been working on glitter-coated cranks a lot lately. The final base coat of glitter puts off brilliant flash even indoors on an overcast day, as much or more than a highly polised spinnerbait blade, but after clearing with D2T it's just not as flashy. This is almost the opposite of what I would expect. I'm not sure if it's because the Devcon diffuses light more than auto clears, etc. but I really want to know if a different clear or clearcoating technique would give me better results. Because the glitter is rough before being cleared, a fairly heavy coat or two is needed to cover it well. But I've noticed even on the first light coat reflectivity takes a noticeable roll downhill. Really want to know what you guys who have experience with D2T and other topcoats over foil, gliitter, or even pearls think about this!

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I've been working on glitter-coated cranks a lot lately. The final base coat of glitter puts off brilliant flash even indoors on an overcast day, as much or more than a highly polised spinnerbait blade, but after clearing with D2T it's just not as flashy. This is almost the opposite of what I would expect. I'm not sure if it's because the Devcon diffuses light more than auto clears, etc. but I really want to know if a different clear or clearcoating technique would give me better results. Because the glitter is rough before being cleared, a fairly heavy coat or two is needed to cover it well. But I've noticed even on the first light coat reflectivity takes a noticeable roll downhill. Really want to know what you guys who have experience with D2T and other topcoats over foil, gliitter, or even pearls think about this!

I use DN clear coat and that seems super clear and not as thick and messy to deal with as D2T. It is harder to store you have to use bloxygen and get a good seal on your container to store it but no mixing and how durable it is is well worth it. I brush mine on most of the time and usually have to use 2 or 3 coats to get it thick enough. You can dip it and that way you would probably only need 1 or 2 coats of the stuff for the thickness that you are looking for.

Tim

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I've only been doing this a little while but I use e-tex and am very happy with it. When I started painting I used D2T but found the e-tex was easier to use and I liked the finish better. It seems alot more transparent to me when it dries than D2T.

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I've only been doing this a little while but I use e-tex and am very happy with it. When I started painting I used D2T but found the e-tex was easier to use and I liked the finish better. It seems alot more transparent to me when it dries than D2T.

Well etex sounds better to me than going to a urethane at least...have you ever tested it on two cranks that both had flashy or holographic undercoats and noticed any difference as far as that goes?

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Well etex sounds better to me than going to a urethane at least...have you ever tested it on two cranks that both had flashy or holographic undercoats and noticed any difference as far as that goes?

I've had better luck with the e-tex over a holographic and glitter base. The D2T seemed to dry with a bit of white tint to me. It's possible I had it too thick? I read on here that some guys were using the e-tex so I tried it and couldn't be happier.

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From my baits i have made and TC's tried I think Automotive clear is the best for clarity and flash. You have to be able to spray it safely though!

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hi. if your painting plastic cranks heres my process. we use auto clear. put autoclear in cup mix component glitter in with ball bearings. shake to have the glitter mixed. i spray at 40lbs thru a paasche h brush. nu.5 tip. the clarity is stunning and you have excellent adhesion.

. theres no glitter creep this way.

hope this helps someone.

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hi. if your painting plastic cranks heres my process. we use auto clear. put autoclear in cup mix component glitter in with ball bearings. shake to have the glitter mixed. i spray at 40lbs thru a paasche h brush. nu.5 tip. the clarity is stunning and you have excellent adhesion.

. theres no glitter creep this way.

hope this helps someone.

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[i've been working on glitter-coated cranks a lot lately. The final base coat of glitter puts off brilliant flash even indoors on an overcast day, as much or more than a highly polised spinnerbait blade, but after clearing with D2T it's just not as flashy. This is almost the opposite of what I would expect. I'm not sure if it's because the Devcon diffuses light more than auto clears, etc. but I really want to know if a different clear or clearcoating technique would give me better results. Because the glitter is rough before being cleared, a fairly heavy coat or two is needed to cover it well. But I've noticed even on the first light coat reflectivity takes a noticeable roll downhill. Really want to know what you guys who have experience with D2T and other topcoats over foil, gliitter, or even pearls think about this!

Blazt --If you are selling them, then you need the 'flash on the rack' to sell them-- BUT once they are under the water, it does not matter much whether it's a matte or gloss finish, once they are wet they are all 'Gloss'-- Of course there is different clarities to all finishes and I suggest that a thin coat in air, like an 'Auto clear', is going to flash a lot more then some epoxies (on the rack)--One coat of epoxy clear, in thickness, is equivalent to about six coats of auto clear - generally the more you put on, the more opaque they become.

Unfortunately, fish in the real world live in the water, not in our dusty old sheds, where we continuously gaze (with the aid of a spotlight) at that latest 'perfect finish' we have concocted.

Don't get too tied up in the looks, fish have different eyes--------------------- they're looking for food, not finish.

Pete

Edited by hazmail

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Pete's right, they're all sisters in the dark, or, in this case, in the water.

If you want a finish that won't take away from the flash, try Target Coatings' SC9000. It is their Super Clear, and it is that.

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I've had better luck with the e-tex over a holographic and glitter base. The D2T seemed to dry with a bit of white tint to me. It's possible I had it too thick? I read on here that some guys were using the e-tex so I tried it and couldn't be happier.

Well, I got excited for a minute about etex but I just don't see a lure turner in my future. So I'll have to count etex out.

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Yeah, without a turner e-tex is out. I built a turner simply because I had about a half gallon of product left from a bar top project in my basement. I'm not trying to sell you on the stuff it's just that I had some, tried it and it worked. Before you rule a turner out you should search them on this site. I have come across a bunch that look really simple to make.

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[quote ... it does not matter much whether it's a matte or gloss finish, once they are wet they are all 'Gloss'...

I'm not concerned with gloss. d2t is glossy enough for me.

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Pete's right, they're all sisters in the dark, or, in this case, in the water.

If you want a finish that won't take away from the flash, try Target Coatings' SC9000. It is their Super Clear, and it is that.

I'm going to rule the water-reducibles out because they aren't submersion proof. Too bad, though, otherwise that one looks good.

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I'm going to rule the water-reducibles out because they aren't submersion proof. Too bad, though, otherwise that one looks good.

You're right, they aren't totally water proof. If you submerge them overnight, or leave a bait on wet carpet overnight, it will cloud up.

But I've fished cranks and swimbaits coated with SC9000 for several years now, and never had a problem.

I do use PVC, not wood, so my paint jobs are much more stable and waterproof.

You asked for something that wouldn't take away from the shine of your glitter. Short of an automotive clear that requires both breathing protection and a special spray booth, this is the only finish I've found that fills the bill, and it can be dipped easily, with no breathing protection or storage issues.

It doesn't take away from metalic finishes, either, like every other finish I've tried.

Not pushing it, just saying it isn't as fragile as some have posted, at least not in my experience.

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Solvent DN is my favorite clearcoat but if you're talking about coating heavy glitter, it may be too thin and applying multiple coats of DN can be problematic. I agree with Woodieb8 and Matt that an auto clear is probably ideal. Can't really speak to one aspect without considering others - the best clearcoat depends on the glitter surface - how large are the flakes, what is the glitter material (metal or plastic), and how rough is the surface before clearcoating. If it's "pretty rough", it will require a thicker clearcoat if you want a smooth finished surface - and an auto clear that can be sprayed rapidly in multiple coats would be ideal. Of course, you may not want shell out the bucks required for rather expensive auto clear + the protective equipment you would be an idiot not to use with it, unless you plan to do a lot of similar lures or want to generalize on using auto clears for your baits.

BTW, Not germane to the glitter question but if you aren't using epoxy because you don't have a lure turner... get over it. Epoxy is too good a coating not to knock together a cheap, easy-to-build turner.

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I use DN clear coat and that seems super clear and not as thick and messy to deal with as D2T. It is harder to store you have to use bloxygen and get a good seal on your container to store it but no mixing and how durable it is is well worth it. I brush mine on most of the time and usually have to use 2 or 3 coats to get it thick enough. You can dip it and that way you would probably only need 1 or 2 coats of the stuff for the thickness that you are looking for.

Tim

Others say they've had problems with more than one coat...but you haven't had any problems that you've had to work through? Nobody ever mentions what kind of defects pop up; I've always wondered. S81 is a definite possibility.

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You're right, they aren't totally water proof. If you submerge them overnight, or leave a bait on wet carpet overnight, it will cloud up.

But I've fished cranks and swimbaits coated with SC9000 for several years now, and never had a problem.

I do use PVC, not wood, so my paint jobs are much more stable and waterproof.

You asked for something that wouldn't take away from the shine of your glitter. Short of an automotive clear that requires both breathing protection and a special spray booth, this is the only finish I've found that fills the bill, and it can be dipped easily, with no breathing protection or storage issues.

It doesn't take away from metalic finishes, either, like every other finish I've tried.

Not pushing it, just saying it isn't as fragile as some have posted, at least not in my experience.

Well, I do plan on selling some of these lures. A customer might wrap a lure in one of those soakable jig wraps. They might lay their rod on the deck so that it happens to land on a soaking wet t shirt and leave it there, with the boat parked in the garage for a week. I want my clear to be redundantly tough for the unforseen. There are probably other scenarios I haven't thought of.

But your input really has me thinking. You say SC9000 (which I must rule out as a topcoat) is good on metallics, which are very similar to glitter. So the burning question is: have you tried s81 or auto clear on metallics with not so hot results?

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Solvent DN is my favorite clearcoat but if you're talking about coating heavy glitter, it may be too thin and applying multiple coats of DN can be problematic. I agree with Woodieb8 and Matt that an auto clear is probably ideal. Can't really speak to one aspect without considering others - the best clearcoat depends on the glitter surface - how large are the flakes, what is the glitter material (metal or plastic), and how rough is the surface before clearcoating. If it's "pretty rough", it will require a thicker clearcoat if you want a smooth finished surface - and an auto clear that can be sprayed rapidly in multiple coats would be ideal. Of course, you may not want shell out the bucks required for rather expensive auto clear + the protective equipment you would be an idiot not to use with it, unless you plan to do a lot of similar lures or want to generalize on using auto clears for your baits.

BTW, Not germane to the glitter question but if you aren't using epoxy because you don't have a lure turner... get over it. Epoxy is too good a coating not to knock together a cheap, easy-to-build turner.

The glitter I'm using is .008" square (ultrafine). I assume it's polyester. "Pretty rough" would describe the base when ready for clearing. But not "pretty darn rough". I could probably cut it down to one coat of glitter once I get some ctex base to match the glitter and fill the

gaps underneath. But it might not matter because I put a really heavy coat of devcon / glitter over that anyway. But as it stands it takes one med. heavy and one light coat of devcon to smooth things out.

What kind of problems happen with multicoating DN? Are you brushing or dipping?

I wouldn't mind too much building a lure turner, but It took me probably two dozen test pieces to get the process down that produces the most flash (before clearing) from the glitter coat. A turner will obliterate that, believe me. And I'd have nowhere good to put it.

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The glitter I'm using is .008" square (ultrafine). I assume it's polyester. "Pretty rough" would describe the base when ready for clearing. But not "pretty darn rough". I could probably cut it down to one coat of glitter once I get some ctex base to match the glitter and fill the

gaps underneath. But it might not matter because I put a really heavy coat of devcon / glitter over that anyway. But as it stands it takes one med. heavy and one light coat of devcon to smooth things out.

What kind of problems happen with multicoating DN? Are you brushing or dipping?

I wouldn't mind too much building a lure turner, but It took me probably two dozen test pieces to get the process down that produces the most flash (before clearing) from the glitter coat. A turner will obliterate that, believe me. And I'd have nowhere good to put it.

Some guys brush DN S81 and use multiple coats. I dip baits in S81 once only. Perhaps one of the brushers can chime in with their dos/don'ts. In my experience dipping, S81 tends to react with itself when recoating unless I wait a minimum (and ideally longer) of 24 hrs between coats. There may be a "window" nearer to the initial dip time that works also but I haven't found it and am not looking. My lure turner takes up less than a square foot of counter space and runs 6 lures at a time. Your space must be REALLY limited.

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Some guys brush DN S81 and use multiple coats. I dip baits in S81 once only. Perhaps one of the brushers can chime in with their dos/don'ts. In my experience dipping, S81 tends to react with itself when recoating unless I wait a minimum (and ideally longer) of 24 hrs between coats. There may be a "window" nearer to the initial dip time that works also but I haven't found it and am not looking. My lure turner takes up less than a square foot of counter space and runs 6 lures at a time. Your space must be REALLY limited.

I wonder if KBS DiamondFinish has this problem. I was going over the big KBS thread again last night and I just can't see any fault with the product, despite the bubbles everyone is talking about.

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Well I really appreciate everyone jumping in on this. Right now, foremost in my mind are auto clears, KBS DiamondFinish (I can get a quart and thinner shipped for less than $50), and Dick Nite S-81 "new original" solvent based mcu. I'd be glad to hear recommendations on auto urethanes that won't diminish flashy bases, epecially glitter of course. Clears that you hopefully have abused like you had S. Hussein tied to the end of your line!!

:teef: House of Kolor has one that looks good - they claim "rocks bounce off". I really don't have to deal with a respirator/ shoot suit (that would be putting the cart in front of the horse, I do less than 3 dozen lures/month right now but that number will grow) but I noticed KBS specifies an AIR SUPPLIED respirator for spraying, whereas they only say "well ventilated area" for brushing. So maybe there is a 2 part urethane that can be brushed safely outdoors with the wind at my back. One that will self - level when overeduced and brushed...hope to get this licked soon. I'm on a collision course with the prespawn rattlebait bite, and I want to be throwing MY lures!

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Well I really appreciate everyone jumping in on this. Right now, foremost in my mind are auto clears, KBS DiamondFinish (I can get a quart and thinner shipped for less than $50), and Dick Nite S-81 "new original" solvent based mcu. I'd be glad to hear recommendations on auto urethanes that won't diminish flashy bases, epecially glitter of course. Clears that you hopefully have abused like you had S. Hussein tied to the end of your line!!

:teef: House of Kolor has one that looks good - they claim "rocks bounce off". I really don't have to deal with a respirator/ shoot suit (that would be putting the cart in front of the horse, I do less than 3 dozen lures/month right now but that number will grow) but I noticed KBS specifies an AIR SUPPLIED respirator for spraying, whereas they only say "well ventilated area" for brushing. So maybe there is a 2 part urethane that can be brushed safely outdoors with the wind at my back. One that will self - level when overeduced and brushed...hope to get this licked soon. I'm on a collision course with the prespawn rattlebait bite, and I want to be throwing MY lures!

Oops...make that price good for a PINT of KBS , not a quart.

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