Pictures Of Your Works
31 replies to this topic
Posted 21 April 2011 - 09:47 AM
I should qualify my statement about the Dollar Tree tripod - get a small, light tripod like that only if your cam is small and very light. Bigger cameras need a sturdy tripod so the camera doesn't shake and wiggle while taking pics.
Posted 21 April 2011 - 09:52 AM
I tried searching his username in the gallery, no results.
Can you post your pics here and tell us what brand, model of camera you are using and the MP rating? Everybody can give you much better and pointed answers this way. We don't even know if your cam is digital or film. I'm sure you'll be cranking out great pics in no time, don't worry.
Posted 21 April 2011 - 10:14 AM
I have taken many pics of my lures and what works best for me is to take the photos outside in indirect light. Sometimes I have to move a half dozen times before the lure will look ok, glare can be a problem. Just yesterday I took three photos of a lure and none looked good so today I will try again. Photos inside always look dull to me and the color is often off just a bit. If you have a large rock or piece of wood lay the lure on it to take the photos, the dull background seems to work well. Here is an example.
Posted 21 April 2011 - 02:21 PM
Pics like that are the reason why diffuse, natural midday light is usually pretty hard to beat.
Posted 25 April 2011 - 11:59 AM
Thanks for pointing that out, vodkaman. It was starting to drive me nuts.
This is for the poster and anybody else.
Ok...now that I've seen your pic I'm going to say you need to use the spot meter if your cam has that option. It looks like what happened here is that the background, which is darker than your lures, forced the camera to overexpose and fire the flash. Flash is usually bad unless you can control the direction and intensity, and there is lots of glare on your lures. I'd kill the flash and put the cam on a tripod or stack of books. Use the spot meter and aim the crosshairs (so to speak) at the lure, avoiding kill spots and other black areas on the bait.
Here is a pic I took of rusty, slightly banged up crank with center weighted metering:
SANY0033.JPG 2.42MB 49 downloads
Same shot with spot metering:
SANY0030.JPG 2.4MB 60 downloads
The background is underexposed, (too dark) but this makes the lure "glow" with contrast. Also I put my cam in portrait mode, which blurs the background somewhat by opening up my lens. My lens is slow; a faster lens will defocus the background even more. This is good; it makes the lure stand out. I wish I had payed more attention to composition, though, because the beaver - chopped sapling is a bit too much to take.
Two more examples, taken in macro, portrait, spot meter, no flash modes:
SANY0002.JPG 2.25MB 46 downloads
In the above, I hung the lure on a crappy looking , worn out tackle bag and placed an opened up bag of Doritos, Mylar side out, on the left side of the lure. By spot metering I underexposed the background, hiding the worn out fabric. Also makes the bait "levitate".
SANY0037.JPG 2.36MB 34 downloads
The cam I used is an ebay special - 5 megapixel Sanyo point and shoot I got for like 10 bucks. The menu is relatively primitive. I've had it for a little over a week...think I can maybe get better pics with a little more practice...
Posted 26 April 2011 - 12:54 PM
Thanks to blazt and everyone else for their help. I will get to the pics as soon as I can, but it will probably be about a week before I can. I plan on trying pretty much everything mentioned here, and posting pics for comparison. Went fishing with the baby bass painted ones, and had a 15-18lb king salmon follow it to within inches of the boat. I almost died, I would have surely lost the bait, so I couldn't take more pictures of it. =)
Posted 01 May 2011 - 10:58 PM
So I got together a really simple box, adjusted the camera, and followed the editing instructions for Photoshop. The biggest difference seemed to come from the photo box lighting, but some was found adjusting this setting on the camera from 1/500 to 1/1500. Not sure what the heck that does, but the picture looked a lot crisper. I attached two pics for comparison.
Bluegill Cranks small.jpg 47.21KB 25 downloads
Bluegill Crank Round 2.jpg 48.39KB 25 downloads
Posted 02 May 2011 - 12:37 AM
When I was selling a bunch of old motorcycle parts on Ebay I set up a little photo studio. I took two piece of white shelf board and screwed them together to form a base and a backdrop. Then I set my digital camera on a mini tripod. What seemed to work the best was to set the camera on macro, but back off to about 6 feet and zoom (optical zoom not digital zoom) in on the part. It worked really well, and I didn't have anybody complain about the parts I sent. They got exactly what was in the picture and it was a good picture.
For fishing lures I might do somethign similar, but it would depend on the particular lure how I took its picture. A spinner bait I might snap hanging on a line in front of the backdrop, and then just copy the backdrop over the line and rotate the image for displaying it. A worm I would probably lay out carefully on the base and shoot straight down at. A crank bait I might hold up with a hemostat in a mini vise against the backdrop, and then just edit out the hemostat. Lures with lots of white and light colors I might setup in front of a black backdrop.
You can play with lighting easily. Often a flash will create bright spots or washed out colors. Instead I prefered to position halogen work lamps to illuminate my parts making sure I didn't get an angle that put a glare into the lense.
Posted 03 May 2011 - 09:56 AM
Is that the same lure?! That's 200% better for sure. The 1/500th you were asking about would be the shutter speed.
Posted 03 May 2011 - 10:19 AM
Your camera is probably shutter priority, which means you control the shutter speed and the camera adjusts the aperture to suit.
Increasing the speed forces the camera to open the aperture wider. By doing this, you reduce your depth of field. This means the range of in-focus depth is reduced. If you are aiming straight on, then this is not a problem, but if you doing a fancy oblique angle, you may lose the tail end, depending on what point you focus. The depth of field also makes sure that nothing in the background interferes with your composition, by blurring it out.
Those speeds seem very fast. Maybe I am just out of touch with the technology.
The pic is great.
Posted 03 May 2011 - 05:40 PM
Thanks guys, it is the same lure. The picture is way better. I plan on trying to get a better camera that has more control settings and trying it some more to compare. All of the advice here worked well though.