dakotalakestackle

Createx Pearl Wrinkle

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I am having problems when dipping my baits that have any pearl createx paint wrinkling. I thought maybe I was putting it on a little heavy, but after making sure not to it still wrinkled. I am dipping and hanging the lures by the tie line and don't seem to have any problems with any other paint besides the pearls. I thought about adding some pledge future shine to the pearls, as I have read it make the paint harder/stonger.

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Had the same problem, now I just use a large needle on my air brush and it does'nt take that much longer but does need two coats.

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I haven't had the problem with Createx pearls generally but am using a different brand of pearl white that has more pearl-essence. I think the Future will definitely fortify the paint and may fix your problem if it is due specifically to that one pearl, but can't be sure. It's worth a try. When I dipped lures multiple times in DN, I had wrinkling problems but that was due to the DN wrinkling itself, not because of the underlying color. I changed to a single dip of DN and the problem went away (and I've had no problem with topcoat durability with one coat) I'm assuming you're not using the pearl white as the color basecoat for the lure and that you're heating your paint to dry/cure it between colors. When I goof and have to rinse all the paint off a lure, the Createx pearls are all much easier to remove than other Createx colors. It sheets off very quickly and has less adhesion than non-pearl Createx. So I use it sparingly.

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Pearls are thicker, so you may need to heat set them longer to achieve max. film strength.

You might also try spraying a coat of Createx clear over the pearl before you dip.

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I use Createx Pearl White quite a bit from time to time and have not had the problems you describe. Even when doing double dips in DN. I dry the crap out of each layer of paint with a heat gun set on low however.

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I use Createx Pearl White quite a bit from time to time and have not had the problems you describe. Even when doing double dips in DN. I dry the crap out of each layer of paint with a heat gun set on low however.

Ben,

I really think this is probably the answer. We get so enchanted with how well Createx goes on that we tend to put it on too thick, and not dry it well enough sometimes. At least I do. Thicker coats skin over, and leave unset paint trapped beneath the surface that rears it's ungly head when we top coat, or apply additional coats and heat set them.

I think thin coats, and well heat set coats, are the key to a successful paint scheme.

Of course, I'm just a carpenter, so what do I know? :lol:

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Pearls are thicker, so you may need to heat set them longer to achieve max. film strength.

You might also try spraying a coat of Createx clear over the pearl before you dip.

+1.... I don't post here much, but this is what I've found.

First of all, what DN top coat are you using? Do you use heat to cure the DN and your Createx? I use the moisture cure (I think its called S-81) and have had the same issues in the past. What caused my problems was that I use a couple thermostat controlled 100w lights in a box to maintain a temp of 100deg. I was having wrinkling on lures that had been painted with darker paints (black, green, blue, etc.) What was happening was the heat from the lights (direct light not diffused) was being absorbed faster into the darker colors and after dipping and hanging in the 100deg box the DN would start to cure too fast from the excessive heat absorbed by those colors. As the DN ran down the body, It would create wrinkles anywhere the darker colors were present. I also had the lures sitting in the box (at 100deg) before they were dipped. Now I don't preheat the lures that have the dark colors on them, I place them into the box only after being dipped. I also now lower the temperature for the first 1/2 hour that they hang. I dip most lures at least twice this way and have had no further issues.

I know this is a little different than what you described, but it sounds like your pearls are not fully set/cured.

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I am using the S 81, and I always heat set in between coats. Bob what brand of pearl are you using. Also it is the pearl white that is giving me trouble, I use opaque white as my base coat. Thanks guys. I will post a pic later.

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I to have this problem at times and I dip my cranks in any pearls that I use. Usually it happens under the crank on the tail or the throat but i don't use DN. But I don't think that the wrinkles that I get are a bad thing!

I always let my cranks dry by them selves for at least two hours. But from start to finish on my cranks are anywhere from 4-6 weeks depending on how many coats of paint are on each bait. I have one cranks that has 18 layers of paint and it is a pain to paint but looks great when done, that same bait has a total of 31 steps to complete, it is a layering thing that makes it look so good!

Jeff

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I to have this problem at times and I dip my cranks in any pearls that I use. Usually it happens under the crank on the tail or the throat but i don't use DN. But I don't think that the wrinkles that I get are a bad thing!

I always let my cranks dry by them selves for at least two hours. But from start to finish on my cranks are anywhere from 4-6 weeks depending on how many coats of paint are on each bait. I have one cranks that has 18 layers of paint and it is a pain to paint but looks great when done, that same bait has a total of 31 steps to complete, it is a layering thing that makes it look so good!

Jeff

Not sure what type of paint your using Jeff, but Createx has to be heat set for it to behave properly. It is designed as T-shirt paint and must be heat set to make it waterproof. The heat seating does something on a molecular level that the folks at Createx call "cross linking" if memory serves me correctly. Simply letting Createx air dry will not form these cross links. If anyone is interested in knowing more about the specifics of Createx I suggest they go to their website and read up about it on the technical data provided there. The links to Createx and Auto Air technical data is below.

http://createxcolors.com/technical/PDFs/Createx_ApplicationGuide.pdf

http://createxcolors.com/technical/PDFs/AutoAir_AppGuide_2009.pdf

Ben

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Ben,

I really think this is probably the answer. We get so enchanted with how well Createx goes on that we tend to put it on too thick, and not dry it well enough sometimes. At least I do. Thicker coats skin over, and leave unset paint trapped beneath the surface that rears it's ungly head when we top coat, or apply additional coats and heat set them.

I think thin coats, and well heat set coats, are the key to a successful paint scheme.

Of course, I'm just a carpenter, so what do I know? :lol:

I'm guilty of applying too thick of a coat myself Mark. That's why I tend to "dry the crap out of each layer of paint". I've made several plastic lure bodies puff up like a toad frog from getting them too hot. That's when I learned how far back to keep the heat gun and to always keep it moving. It says on the Createx website that you should "Apply heat until paint is warm to the touch". (direct quote from the Createx website) If there's one thing I'm getting right it's applying plenty of heat. :lol:

Ben

Edited by RayburnGuy

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I'm guilty of applying too thick of a coat myself Mark. That's why I tend to "dry the crap out of each layer of paint". I've made several plastic lure bodies puff up like a toad frog from getting them too hot. That's when I learned how far back to keep the heat gun and to always keep it moving. It says on the Createx website that you should "Apply heat until paint is warm to the touch". (direct quote from the Createx website) If there's one thing I'm getting right it's applying plenty of heat. :lol:

Ben

I too have had them puff apart on me too. I thought my eyes were playing tricks on me at first.

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your right Ben, let me back up and say I guess in away I do heat set them but not with a hair dryer, I have a space heater that is in front of them to dry. I do use different paints but use createx pearls only! And I layer all of my paint and under each coat there is a build coat and as I paint the paint does get darker but never do i paint on top of a coat thats already there. So it is base coat then paint then build coat then paint you see where I am going then 3 coats of topcoat with 2 hours in between each topcoat, and then a week for the topcoat to cure fully and thats why it takes sssoooo long for my baits to get done.

Jeff

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Rayburnguy is right.Make sure all coats of paint and sealer are dry before you top coat.I use a differnt top coat and had the same problem.Now I heat set each coat and wait one day before I top coat.

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I got some pledge future floor shine and put it in a old pump spray bottle and hit the lures with a light mist before dipping. I heat set the the paint real good and the pledge too. That seemed to help alot.

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You can't put many solvent clears over water based paint. That is what is causing the wrinkling. Acetone lifts createx..

I got some pledge future floor shine and put it in a old pump spray bottle and hit the lures with a light mist before dipping. I heat set the the paint real good and the pledge too. That seemed to help alot.

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