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Masking Around Bill

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I have noticed that in the lure pictures that have been posted, which are excelent, and the painting around the bills is just great, so here is my problem, I want to do many of the same lure but taping takes to long around the lure and with poor results. Do any of you use liquid mask or just use a hand held mask cut from index or vinyl and then just airbrush, or after just put a clear epoxy around the bill. I am useing a metal bill on a wood muski lure. I cannot put the bill on last the way this bill goes in is into a slot then screwed in and epoxied over the screw holes making it look like a plastic lure.

Thanks for any help.

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I just bought some heat shrink tubing for stencils and when it gets here I'm going to try it for masking the bill also. I think it would work as long as it's really thin. Stuff I bought is 4 mil, but If it turns out to be so thick that I wind up with a tiny fraction of the bill unpainted I'll be looking for some that's thinner. I could let you know how it works out, if you're interested. I pretty much anticipate that it will be the ultimate solution.

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I use blue painters masking tape.

I bought a 1" roll, and cut 1/2" wide pieces off to follow the sides of the bill where it goes into the body. I put it on, starting at the line tie or front of the bait, and folding it over when I reach the edge of the bill to mask the other side of the bill with the same piece.

I do this one each side, and then cut another piece of tape to mask the rest of the bill.

It takes me a couple of minutes to do each bait, but it is easy once you get the hang of it.

If I'm doing a bunch of baits, I precut the tape, and hang the pieces in front of me so I can take them as I need them.

That cuts masking time in half.

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I just bought some heat shrink tubing for stencils and when it gets here I'm going to try it for masking the bill also. I think it would work as long as it's really thin. Stuff I bought is 4 mil, but If it turns out to be so thick that I wind up with a tiny fraction of the bill unpainted I'll be looking for some that's thinner. I could let you know how it works out, if you're interested. I pretty much anticipate that it will be the ultimate solution.

Please let me know if it works.

Thanks

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Please let me know if it works.

Thanks

I'll post here. It'll be a few days at least. Like I said the only worry I have is that the edge might be too thick but there's probably a way to bevel it or something, or you can get heatshrink pretty thin.

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I'll post here. It'll be a few days at least. Like I said the only worry I have is that the edge might be too thick but there's probably a way to bevel it or something, or you can get heatshrink pretty thin.

Blatz, the heat shrink that I used in the stencil post, was 0.017" thick. To be honest, I didn't realize it was so thin until I measured it just now. The thickness doubles up once you shrink it, depending on how much you shrink it, more in some places. So, you need to start as thin as possible.

Dave

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Well, if you've been following my stencil thread you know I'm not real thrilled. I think the HST (heat shrink tubing) I have here is too slick for masking the bill. I don't see it staying precisely in place very well, even if clamped. Looks like you need the entire shape of a lure supporting it from the inside. Also had a hard time getting it to shink down on a small square bill although the diameter is probably too large to begin with. Keep in mind the type I have is plasticky and slick. The rubbery PVC kind is what I'll try next and I think it will be much better. Still, since I'm working with Ctex, I thought I'd just shoot the lure with no masking on bill or hangers, put the clear down (precisely cutting in with a brush), then remove the excess with a Q tip and some rubbing alcohol or water. As long as you cut in right it should be a great way to go. I cleared one lure, haven't cleaned it up yet. I may very well do it this way from now on. The one pitfall here will be the danger of screwing up a coat of DN with the alcohol (or even water) or having to wait before it is fully cured. The other day I "prepped" a coat of DN clear that I brushed 36 hours prior - immediately it got tacky. I'm thinking "good, I hope. Maybe this will promote a bond between coats...". But the second coat melted the first and I had to scrap the lure.

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Sounds like you can spend a lot of time trying to get the perfect masking material, and that's building and painting time.

I would stick with blue painter's masking tape.

If you do it a few time, you'll get pretty fast. It takes me less than a minute to mask a bill now, if I cut the masking tape into the smaller pieces ahead of time.

Just remember that the only one who'll notice a slight irregularity in the paint along the bill will probably be you.

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I hadn't tried it but what about that press and seal food wrap for cover the bill. Also thinking about that package wrapping stuff shipping people use to wrap around all kinds of stuff- stacked boxes, around carpet rolls, etc. That stuff is stretchy, sticks to itself. When done painting just cut the edge with a sharp blade to remove. I just might try this on my next bait build. Maybe someone else has tried it???

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Tape might be king in the end. But let's say the the soft PVC HST doesn't work that well - couldn't you at least use it as a template for cutting bill shaped masks from tape, maybe even color coding for top and bottom halves with green and blue tape?

Sounds like you can spend a lot of time trying to get the perfect masking material, and that's building and painting time.

I would stick with blue painter's masking tape.

If you do it a few time, you'll get pretty fast. It takes me less than a minute to mask a bill now, if I cut the masking tape into the smaller pieces ahead of time.

Just remember that the only one who'll notice a slight irregularity in the paint along the bill will probably be you.

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Tape might be king in the end. But let's say the the soft PVC HST doesn't work that well - couldn't you at least use it as a template for cutting bill shaped masks from tape, maybe even color coding for top and bottom halves with green and blue tape?

That is another way to go. I make stencils out of plain paper, so I bet you could make bill masking stencils out of paper, too. Then just trace out the pattern on the tape, cut it, and, "Voila!", or whatever it is the French say. :lol:

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So, I realize this might be quite a bit late, but one of my favorite ways to quickly cover a bill is to use a water balloon. You can cut the round part off the mouth of the balloon, then just stretch it down over the bill and cut to fit with a small razor. Works like a charm and saves you from having a sticky mess if your bodies are sitting taped for a long time. If you have a problem with the balloon not fitting on the bill exactly how you want, take a painters q-tip and outline where the bill meets the body in your base color - then the balloon can cover part of the body without missing paint.  

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On 19/09/2017 at 6:12 PM, woodieb8 said:

I have done some contact paintin where the bill/lip was covered with saran wrap. the cling wrap type. actually it worked excellent. for years we use the green/blue painters tape. it wont leave adhesive like normal masking tape.

I've used regular and frog tape. I really dont have much trouble unless I want to be tight to the body. I like idea Woodie and well see what it will do. Thanks

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