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Etex Tacky After 70 Hours - Help

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I coated some stripper jigs with etex about 70 hours ago as I write this. This is my first time using etex so what did I miss. I mixed equal parts A&B using syringes. 6ml of each in a small plastic cup. Stirred with a metal nail. Applied with a disposable sponge brush and put on a drying wheel for about 7 hours. About 12 hours ago I put a 40 watt light bulb about 6' from them and check the temp at between 85 & 90 degrees. Checked just now and they are not dry.

What did I do wrong and can I salvage the work.

thanks in advance

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I coated some stripper jigs with etex about 70 hours ago as I write this. This is my first time using etex so what did I miss. I mixed equal parts A&B using syringes. 6ml of each in a small plastic cup. Stirred with a metal nail. Applied with a disposable sponge brush and put on a drying wheel for about 7 hours. About 12 hours ago I put a 40 watt light bulb about 6' from them and check the temp at between 85 & 90 degrees. Checked just now and they are not dry.

What did I do wrong and can I salvage the work.

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your mix is incorrect. you must mix it thouroughly. try a new mix and overcoat it. . we whip it up and remove any bubbles 1 hour after applying in. hope this helps.

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I coated some stripper jigs with etex about 70 hours ago as I write this. This is my first time using etex so what did I miss. I mixed equal parts A&B using syringes. 6ml of each in a small plastic cup. Stirred with a metal nail. Applied with a disposable sponge brush and put on a drying wheel for about 7 hours. About 12 hours ago I put a 40 watt light bulb about 6' from them and check the temp at between 85 & 90 degrees. Checked just now and they are not dry.

What did I do wrong and can I salvage the work.

your mix is incorrect. you must mix it thouroughly. try a new mix and overcoat it. . we whip it up and remove any bubbles 1 hour after applying in. hope this helps.

That's my suggestion, too. Mix the you-know-what out of it, and then use a hair dryer to warm it so the bubbles rise up and can be removed easier. Then let it sit for a few minutes, and the bubbles should be mostly gone. But mixing thoroughly is real important.

You might also have gotten a bad batch of ingredients, so, if the second, well-mixed coat of epoxy doesn't do the trick, call the Etex people. They have great tech support.

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Often, adding a second coat of good epoxy to one that did not cure will cause the soft epoxy to cure hard. It's worth a try.

There is rarely doubt about epoxy failures - it's either bad measuring or failure to mix it really well. In my experience, failure to mix well is the culprit 90% of the time and since you obviously measured it well, mixing seems to be the culprit. You can mix 5 yr old, browned up epoxy and it will still cure hard, so I tend to discount the possibility of getting a bad batch from the factory. If your epoxy did not cure in 24 hrs, it probably never will.

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I agree with what everyone else has said. I had problems with Etex when I first started because I worried too much about the bubbles that appeared while mixing. I finally figured out it was easier to deal with the bubbles than it was a poorly mixed batch of Etex. I mix mine like crazy for at least 2 minutes when mixing small batches. Like Dave said it is best to time the mixing process. A kitchen timer works great for this. Getting rid of the bubbles isn't that hard. After mixing I place mine in a 750 watt microwave for 3 to 4 seconds tops. I tried 5 seconds once and it started curing before I could get back to my workbench. After pulling it out of the microwave I let it set for a couple minutes and exhale my breath onto it. The mixture of warmth and carbon dioxide from your breath is what I am told helps pop the bubbles. Like Bob said there are only a couple things that can screw up epoxy and those are improper measuring and improper mixing. If your positive you measured correctly then my guess would be mixing is your trouble.

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There's one more thing that can screw up epoxy. I made the mistake so long ago, I'd almost forgotten about it.

Be sure you use denatured alcohol, and not rubbing alcohol, for thinning your epoxy.

They are two different animals.

I once mixed some rubbing alcohol into my D2T to thin it, and it turned into a gooey mess.

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I don't know if this will help you or not, but I measured my 2 part by weight not by measurement and it worked really well. I mix it very hard and let it sit for short time and all the bubbles seem to reduce and eventually go away. I live in quite a warm enviroment and they dried perfectly within 24 hours.

Good Luck

Drew

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I don't know if this will help you or not, but I measured my 2 part by weight not by measurement and it worked really well. I mix it very hard and let it sit for short time and all the bubbles seem to reduce and eventually go away. I live in quite a warm enviroment and they dried perfectly within 24 hours.

Good Luck

Drew

Drew, most epoxy has some fudge factor about how equally the resin/hardener have to be measured but all the directions I see specify "equal volumes", which is why Etex comes in 2 equal volume bottles.

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Don't know if this matters or not either, but I always mix etex with a wooden dowels or scrap of wood. I didn't see anyone else mention the factor of humidity . The light bulb is a good idea, just use the light bulb from the beginning of the curing stage. I also use a hot air gun for the first 4 or 5 minutes on the lowest setting while my lures are spinning. I usually 50/50 the mix and stir with the wooden dowel for about 3-4 minutes (and yes there are a lot of bubbles) but they will go away for the most part. I have heard of the breathe part to get rid of the bubbles and I'm sure it works...I just use the heat gun. Good luck...

Oh yeah, I apply the etex with bristle brushes, they are cheap and I throw them away after use. You can get them at harbor freight

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-piece-1-2-half-inch-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-41338.html

Edited by benjiwhite
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