Tips On Applying D2t / Ca Glue

[esox2525]

Was wondering about some of the methods for applying DT2 and CA glue as a primer on wood baits. What brushes are used and is there a solvent that allows you to reuse the brushes on either?

Edited May 1, 2011 by esox2525

[Vodkaman]

Was wondering about some of the methods for applying DT2 and CA glue as a primer on wood baits. What brushes are used and is there a solvent that allows you to reuse the brushes on either?

I re-use my brushes. I haven't counted how many times, but it is a lot.

I clean the brush with a splash of regular paint thinners in the bottom of a drinks can. Dab a few times in the thinners, then brush onto a length of rough cut wood block. Repeat ten times. For extended life, you could then renew the thinners and repeat, but I never bother. The epoxy will eventually build up from the root of the brush. The speed of this process depends on how thorough you are with your cleaning method. The same process works for resins also.

For applying CA glue, I start off with the end grain. When you drip it on, it immediately gets absorbed. Away from the end grain, I spread it with my finger. Sometimes I wrap plastic around my finger, sometimes not. When applying the second coat, it will run, due to the wood already being sealed. Just direct the runs away from your fingers, or you will be wearing the bait.

Dave

[Vodkaman]

double post.

Edited May 1, 2011 by Vodkaman

[mark poulson]

I re-use my brushes. I haven't counted how many times, but it is a lot.

I clean the brush with a splash of regular paint thinners in the bottom of a drinks can. Dab a few times in the thinners, then brush onto a length of rough cut wood block. Repeat ten times. For extended life, you could then renew the thinners and repeat, but I never bother. The epoxy will eventually build up from the root of the brush. The speed of this process depends on how thorough you are with your cleaning method. The same process works for resins also.

For applying CA glue, I start off with the end grain. When you drip it on, it immediately gets absorbed. Away from the end grain, I spread it with my finger. Sometimes I wrap plastic around my finger, sometimes not. When applying the second coat, it will run, due to the wood already being sealed. Just direct the runs away from your fingers, or you will be wearing the bait.

Dave

"Wearing the bait"! Now that is funny! And true.

I use just my finger, and always seem to "wear the bait" from time to time.

Maybe my fingerprints would be a good scale pattern? At least the fish would know who to blame.

[BobP]

Most solvents will dissolve D2T; the more volatile, the better. I use lacquer thinner to clean brushes. You don't want to use a solvent that might leave behind an oily residue on the brush when it dries because that leads to fisheyes the next time you use it. One tip - never wipe your brush on a paper towel. The D2T will pick up fibers and transfer them to your lures. I use a piece of clean cotton cloth. Dave makes a good point - whatever you use, the brush will eventually build up D2T at the root of the bristles. But I've been using the same cheap artist brushes for several years. When using D2T as an undercoating, I mix it up and then shake in a few drops of denatured alcohol to thin it slightly. It allows the D2T to penetrate the wood grain better, extends your brushing time, but won't affect leveling or appreciably slow down the cure time on the D2T.

[esox2525]

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!

I re-use my brushes. I haven't counted how many times, but it is a lot.

I clean the brush with a splash of regular paint thinners in the bottom of a drinks can. Dab a few times in the thinners, then brush onto a length of rough cut wood block. Repeat ten times. For extended life, you could then renew the thinners and repeat, but I never bother. The epoxy will eventually build up from the root of the brush. The speed of this process depends on how thorough you are with your cleaning method. The same process works for resins also.

For applying CA glue, I start off with the end grain. When you drip it on, it immediately gets absorbed. Away from the end grain, I spread it with my finger. Sometimes I wrap plastic around my finger, sometimes not. When applying the second coat, it will run, due to the wood already being sealed. Just direct the runs away from your fingers, or you will be wearing the bait.

Dave

THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!!

Most solvents will dissolve D2T; the more volatile, the better. I use lacquer thinner to clean brushes. You don't want to use a solvent that might leave behind an oily residue on the brush when it dries because that leads to fisheyes the next time you use it. One tip - never wipe your brush on a paper towel. The D2T will pick up fibers and transfer them to your lures. I use a piece of clean cotton cloth. Dave makes a good point - whatever you use, the brush will eventually build up D2T at the root of the bristles. But I've been using the same cheap artist brushes for several years. When using D2T as an undercoating, I mix it up and then shake in a few drops of denatured alcohol to thin it slightly. It allows the D2T to penetrate the wood grain better, extends your brushing time, but won't affect leveling or appreciably slow down the cure time on the D2T.