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10 replies to this topic
Posted 04 May 2011 - 12:44 AM
i need some advise for attaching lips or 'bibs' onto crankbaits.
i have bought some crankbaits with the lips not attached, i have read a bit about ho to best glue them in etc, but there was one thing i wasnt sure of.
should the lure be 'tested' to make sure its going to swim properly before i glue them in? or should they be of and tune later with the tow point if needed?
Posted 04 May 2011 - 12:52 AM
A bait with a diving lip is not going to "swim properly" without the lip attached. The forces of the water loading and unloading on the lip is what gives the lure it's swimming action. There are other forces that contribute to the swimming action, but the most prevalent is the lip.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 01:12 AM
Ben, pretty sure he means testing with the lip in, but not permanently glued.
SF, if it is a complete kit, then it is designed to work as a unit, with paint, top coat and hooks attached. Is it a balsa kit, do you have to add ballast too?
There is nothing wrong with having a play first and learn about the lure, but you must attach the hooks for testing, or nothing will work right.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 01:28 AM
yes, i should have explained that more clearly,
i do mean fit the lip without glueing it in properly.
i will have a play around with one before i glue them all in. just to be safe
Dave, they are just plastic bodied lures, not balsa.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 01:41 AM
I get some of those dt10 ko's and other like that without the lip in and I attach them all before painting. Then I will go out to the lake after I have cleared them and put all the hardware on and then tune them. I have had great success this way.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 04:37 AM
If I want to temporay attach a bib for testing and tuning the lure and it does not sit snugly in it's slot , I'd either apply some tape onto the portion of the bib sitting inside of the bib slot or I'd utilize one or two toothpicks as wedges to fix the bib , ........just crack off the toothpick after it's point sits in place .
good luck , diemai
Posted 04 May 2011 - 07:17 AM
I would say that was a brain f@rt, but now that I've reread the question I think I may have had an aneurysm. I just immediately had this picture Plaster of Paris into my head of trying to test a crank with no lip.
Posted 04 May 2011 - 08:27 AM
was there much tuning to be done when you do it this way?
- thanks for that. good idea
no problem RayburnGuy, was good for a laugh..
i'm not quite that silly.....
thanks again for the replies everyone, very helpful !!!
Posted 04 May 2011 - 01:31 PM
There is not too much tuning involved. Maybe a few little tweaks at the most and I have got mine to run true. Just make sure to get the bill in straight. I notice I sometimes have to trim the end of the bill before I put it in to get it to go in straight.
Posted 06 May 2011 - 04:49 PM
If the lures were from me you can paint the lure with bill attached of not, just make sure the bill fits before painting, sometimes they have a tad of flashing that needs to be trimmed.
You can paint the lure without the bill in it and clear coat it, then after it dries you can use 2ton to glue it in and clear again to make sure it seals.
I use 2ton on first coat and devcon on second coat.
I have not tried it but you probably could use supper glue to glue the lip in also, they fit tight so you do not need much glue.
Posted 07 May 2011 - 05:39 AM
I wouldn't recommend the original runny super glue unless they fit perfect. You won't get a second chance to place them, and you won't have any time for adjustment.
The brush-on glue, or the Zap gap filling glue, gives you a little more working time, but you still need to be sure that the bill goes in easily and aligned before you glue.
And don't get any glue on the face of the bill or it will leave a smudge, or, in my case, a finger print.