Jump to content
Adding a Dot
12 replies to this topic
Posted 24 March 2004 - 03:45 PM
Hi everybody, this is my first post here and I've been running into a problem adding dots to my crank baits.
I get the whole lure done and painted and mess up on the very last thing, the darn dot. Then have to repaint the whole darn thing again and it's becoming very aggravating for me.
Is there a "simple" solution to my problem?
Posted 24 March 2004 - 04:08 PM
After painting the back and the belly. Before you go 1 step farther you need to clearcoat. Once clearcoated you paintjob is secure and water will take the dot or smear away without ruining your entire paint job. A hint for dots....... I have been using Qtips for quite some time to apply my eyes and dots. Just soak the cotton and twirl it in the paint and 1 good push and you have a round dot.
Posted 24 March 2004 - 04:34 PM
I like to use two new pencils with erasers. Use one as is for the large dot. Take the second eraser and sharpen it in a hand held pencil sharpener to the size you would like for the smaller dot. Joe
Posted 24 March 2004 - 05:53 PM
All of the fellas gave great ideas. The industry standard is to use different size nail heads to accomplish a perfect dot. You dont want the nail head (or whatever your using) to touch the lure. You only want to touch the bead of paint to it so that it releases from the nail to the lure and rest into almost a perfect circle. Use a smaller nail to make a pupil. Sometime dots are sprayed on through mask as well.
Try the nail head. If its hard to work with, do what I do...I expoy my nail into a comfortible grip dowel. Then you have more control. Practice on a painted or lexan surface to get to learn the secret to perfect eyes.
Posted 24 March 2004 - 07:46 PM
The easiest way to make a dot, is to
take a piece of black electrical tape
and a 1/4" hole punch. Punch the dot
out and stick it on the bait, then clear
coat as usual. You cannot feel the dot
Posted 24 March 2004 - 07:54 PM
Coley.. Thats an awesome Idea!! I would have never thought of that. Thats good to store in my hardrive of useful ideas! Cody
Posted 24 March 2004 - 08:41 PM
Coley's right! He told me about it and I have used it. It works like a charm. No muss, no fuss. If you mess up on the placement, just peel it off and restick it.
Posted 24 March 2004 - 09:48 PM
Wow, thanks allot guys. I need to get me some a that clear coat.
Going to try the nails and the black tape...they all sound like a winner.
Posted 24 March 2004 - 11:21 PM
Another thing that you can do is to use Latex Enamel paint. ( regular water based house paint.) It will work over any type of paint that you use to paint the bait with. The really nice thing about this is that if you make a mistake you can take a damp rag and just wipe the dot off and do it again. Go to the store and just get a pint. It will cost you about $3.00. I have been using the same can for 3 yrs. now. You can also use it to do the eyes. Just dot it on with a nail or dowl or whatever else you decide to use.
Posted 24 March 2004 - 11:36 PM
Skeeter has it right if you are using the nail or dowel method. The water base is the way to go. I use the stencil method of using thin plastic with a hole and I shoot lacquer for the dot. This gives you the most uniform dot as far as size. It is also faster if you do any quantity because you don't have to reload on every dot. Just hold the stencil and shoot. There is also no waiting time for drying. Shoot it dry for nice clean edges.
Posted 25 March 2004 - 02:19 AM
Hughesy's metheod is the best for saving time. By far lacquer will dry almost instantly. If you do it my way... you really should let the dot dry for 12 hrs. or more. Especially if you are doing eyes. Dot the first color of red, yellow, or whatever and then let it completely dry before you dot the eyeball. If you do not and you make a mistake and wipe it then it could also remove or smear the color underneath it. Using the water based paint is time consuming. Dotting with lacquer has been a hit and miss for me. Sometimes lacquer gets an air bubble in it and when you dot the lure then the paint can kick that air bubble out and splatter. Then you're screwed. If you are going to use a stencil and spray, then make sure that the material that you are using for the stencil covers the entire side of the lure. That way if there is any overspray it will not get on the side of the bait.
Posted 25 March 2004 - 02:52 PM
Have been using erasers sanded to various diameters for years. Also have some small "swab-less" applicator (think wooden q-tip minus the cotton) that I discovered when cleaning out the pharmacy a few years back. They are what I use for the final dot on rogue eyes, spots on craw colors, shad spots on spinnerbait heads, and other smaller dots.
I use the same createx paint I shoot on the bait. Definitely, if you have the opportunity, lay down a clearcoat first. It will save many problems, and also will give your details (gills, spots, throats) sort of a floating effect. Way cool and much better when you have to wipe one out.
Only time I shoot spots/eyes is on the Super Rogue bait. Has those molded in eyes that just don't look right if you dot them. One thing that will save a lot of grief on spots/gills/eyes is wrapping a piece of masking tape around the bait, just back of where you are going to apply the detail. This will help you line the bait up so the second spot is in the same location as the first. Gives a much more realistic look, and a more professionally finished bait.