Now I Own The Future
50 replies to this topic
Posted 18 May 2011 - 12:41 PM
So I went to Walmart and got a bottle of Pledge Future because pearls were barely shooting through my .35mm tip. I added a just a little and it works great now. Before I had to dry fire (just air) between shots and backflush with the paint in the cup to keep it going...now I have no worries. I did a test patch, putting a coat of Future on a piece of plastic. I let it dry 20 minutes. 91% rubbing alc cleaned it right up. And there was a coupon hanging on the 27 oz bottle...less than a fiver out the door. Five stars unless it gives you cancer. We'll see if my needle is stuck this afternoon.
Posted 18 May 2011 - 01:39 PM
I sometimes have to go through the same steps you listed when I spray pearls. I'm going to buy some Pledge with Future today.
Posted 18 May 2011 - 02:03 PM
What brand of pearls are you guys spraying that your having clogging issues with? My Iwata HP-CS has a .3mm tip and I don't have the problems your talking about when spraying Createx pearls. Of course I'm only spraying a couple baits at the time.
Posted 18 May 2011 - 02:23 PM
I shoot about everything with the FS now mixed with createx pearl paints. I have not had a problem with any. I just make sure to really clean out my airbrush at the end of each session otherwise it will really harden in the airbrush . I use a little acetone to clean it out and that works great for removing any paint with the future shine.
Posted 18 May 2011 - 05:28 PM
Ben...do you thin your pearls when you shoot them......if so what with....thanks
Posted 18 May 2011 - 06:06 PM
At the present I'm only spraying a couple different pearl colors and like almost every other Createx paint some are thinner to start with than others. The Createx white pearl needs very little thinning if at all. I use the Auto Air 4011 reducer on all my paints. (bought some Pledge Future the other day and have just started trying it out) Thinning paint can be a personal thing. Some people like to shoot Createx straight out of the bottle with no thinning at all. Others, myself included, like to thin their paint. A lot of it has to do with tip size, air pressure and personal choice. I seem to get better results by thinning. That could all be in my head, but it's what I've grown to have confidence in and feel comfortable with.
Posted 18 May 2011 - 08:38 PM
I have a Iwata with the .5mm tip. Sometimes I have trouble with creatix pearls. I bought some pearl paint off the discount shelf, what a mistake that was. The paint had tiny chunks in it. I am not sure what is causing my problems. I have messed around the pressure and thinning, but seems like nothing has solved the problem. The problem is also seems to occur on random, making it more difficult to diagnose. I looked for an expiration date on these paints, but don't see any. I was wondering if I had inadvertently purchased some older paints, causing malfunctions in the airbrush.
One thing that has been happening I notice is a small amount of paint rides back up the needle into the airbrush. When I am done, I need to remove the needle and run some cleaner through the body of the airbrush to clean out the needle port. Anyone encounter this?
Posted 19 May 2011 - 12:25 AM
You might need to tighten up the needle packing screw if your getting paint back into the body of your brush. It won't take much. I tighten mine until I can feel a small amount of resistance when sliding the needle back and forth, but still not tight enough to keep the needle from sliding freely.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 06:35 AM
I find that Folk Art metalics need thinning more that Createx pearls, but I thin both with 4011 reducer.
I also use a spray bottle of water with a drop of dish washing liquid to clean my brush bowl after each color, and usually pour the first squirt, with most of the paint, back into the paint bottle. That thins the paint, too.
I've read here that some paints, other than Createx, need to be passed through a filter to remove oversize pigment chunks. I haven't tried that yet, but I have encountered the intermitent no-spray clogging with my Iwata 3.5 tip, and have to back flush, or even back off the needle, to clear it while I'm painting.
The easiest way I've found to avoid this is to thin my paint ahead of time.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 06:41 AM
I don't use createx paints, mostly pactra paints from testors and I always have to thin out my paints to get the consistency I need for proper spraying. Some paints require more thinning than others. Whether you use water based or enamels, thinning has to be done. I also run about a half paint bottle of acetone through when done to clean everything up and spray acetone for about 20-30 seconds between colors.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 09:12 AM
What air pressure are you guys using that have trouble with un thinned pearls? I dont have trouble but I've also thought I might be running at to high of a pressure. I usually run right at 28-30.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:11 PM
I shoot all my paint, including pearls, at 20 psi or lower. In some cases the pressure I shoot with is so low it doesn't even read on my regulator.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 01:50 PM
I can shoot createx gold straight out of the bottle at 25psi but silver and copper takes 30psi in a HP-C with a .35mm. If you want a good shooting gold try Auto Air. The pigment is finer and it shoots real good out of the bottle but doesnt have the coverage of regular createx. Auto Air aluminum is chunky but if you filter it with mama's panty ho's if gives a decent chrome look. Use the missionary ho's not the fish stockin ones.....
Posted 19 May 2011 - 04:29 PM
That Aluminum (fine) is pretty good stiuff. I shoot it with a .3 without reducing but usually have to pull the needle and wipe it down after using.
Just ordered some paints yesterday and I was just notified it was shipped.
Free shipping on all paints w/$25 order plus 12% off entire order.
Figured I'd let you all know.
Posted 19 May 2011 - 05:58 PM
Are yall mixing straight plege with the paint or pledge and water?
Posted 19 May 2011 - 06:35 PM
The recipe I've seen is 50% paint........30% pledge.............20% water...........
Posted 19 May 2011 - 07:35 PM
I have seen that recipe and just wanted too see if anyone was mixing with straight pledge.
Posted 20 May 2011 - 09:23 AM
You bet. I think you'll love it. That bottle should last years unless you're producing. On the first experimental (and successful) pass I eyeballed about 10% future into the mix with some 4011. Future is thinner than any of my ctex ab colors pearls, so I'm going to try to develop a "minimally thinned" recipe to get better coverage. Also these pearls tend to seperate when overthinned. I'm running a siphon fed HF brush, so it might be a little more work for me. Results on the second day of testing weren't quite as good, but I've been shooting pearls heavily since I got the future and haven't put a cleaning rod through my brush since I got it maybe six weeks ago. I need to go buy some bad. I've yet to really soak it yet either. I ran a Qtip anywhere I could squeeze it though the barrel and got like 3 colors on the tip, but I know there's more in there. Nonetheless everything ran better than "before the future". But on the first day, as I said, results were great all the way down to 1/8" inch light lines. As I mentioned, I was anxious too see if my needle was stuck after shooting a bunch of pearls and flushing with half a jar of alchy. Not stuck at all, totally smooth.
Posted 20 May 2011 - 09:24 AM
Ctex airbrush peals. My AB is siphon fed, though.